Question about Electrolux (ULG80BC) Commercial Refrigerator

1 Answer

Evaporater icing up goes on defrost, compressor continues to run is this right?

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Genius:

    An expert who has answered 1,000 questions.

  • Master
  • 1,847 Answers

Yes during the deforst the compressor remain on.
There is nothing wrong in that.

Thanks
Kinldy rate the answer
Kevin

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Fan has power to it intermittantly,but sometimes not at all.With the door open, the light blinks off and on, but sometimes stays on.Of course when the fan doesn't run, the cold air cannot circulate.


It operates as follow:
L(usually brown wire) is connected to the C(common port) of the DOOR SWITCH.
Now the DOOR SWITCH usually had 2(A) or 3(B) ports:

A: Port 1 = Common.(C)
Port 2 = Normally close(closed stream)(N/C).
B: Port 3 = Normally open (open stream)(N/O).

(L) connected to (C)
When door closed;
(C) - (N/O) supplying to Thermostat, from Thermostat to evaporater fan and Compressor (to condenser fan if applicable).

When door open;
(C) - (N/C) supplying lightbulb.
And cutting (N/O) supply.

Now of evaporater fan is not running;
1st, evaporater starts to ice up and the the ******* copper pipe starts icing up all the way to the compressor causing Liquid Refrigerant sucked into compressor that could cause serious damage to compressor.

Regards

Jun 07, 2016 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The freezer doesn't freeze that good but the refridgerator does work.


It is possible that the defrost cycle is not working. Look for signs of ice built up in the freezer compartment. The excess ice prohibits the air circulation.


26128165-5xkmzur1kbcrfneaoxy43scu-3-0.jpg If defrost cycle appears working and compressor runs continuously it is probable that the Freon is low or compressor is failing.

the usual tell is the refrigerator gets colder than usual and the freezer does not get as cold. The situation is that the compressor runs until the freezer temperature is satisfied. If the compressor can not achieve the cold temperature of the freezer it will run continuously.

When the unit runs continuously the bi-pass of air is increased bringing more cold air into the refrigerator portion of the unit.

Mar 13, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Frigidaire model FFU17M8CW1. Top shelf iced up and low temp light came on. Compressor ran continuously. Emptied the freezer and defrosted it. Not for very long...just long enough for the ice to melt, wiped...


The shelves are the evaporator in your freezer. It is normal for the shelves to have frost on them. The more moisture in the unit the more frost you have till you have to defrost it like you did. The fact that only one of your shelves is frosting indicates that the system is low on freon. Must have a leak which requires a qualified havc to find and repair. The temp in a freezer should be between 0 and 10 degrees. At this point your compressor is keeping it cold only by running all the time. As more freon leaks out the temp will rise. This may occur slowly or at a quicker rate depending on the amount leaking.

Aug 24, 2011 | Frigidaire Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

The freezer isn't cool enough and the refrigerator temperature goes up when we put stuffs.


I would first look under the ice box for signs of air restrictions. Clean out the bottom and make sure the fan and compressor is working. Inside the ice box listen to see if the fan is running in there. If that is fine I would look for signs of frost on the back wall of the freezer. If frost is present then ice is on the coils and you have a defrost problem. Their are 2 basic circuits in an ice box. Compressor run AND Defrost run. Compressor run circuit is anywhere from 8 to 12 hours depending on manufacturer. Defrost is 21 minutes. On new fangled electronic ice boxs the brain decides when defrost is needed using inputs from sensors, compressor run time, and how many times the ice box is opened and closed. But the new fangled ice boxs still have a defrost heater and thermostat like any ice box with automatic defrost has. Why do we need a thermostat? The heater is very powerful. It could easily destroy the ice box. It takes only moments to elevate the crawlspace inside the evaporation compartment to 50 degrees F. This keeps any frost that could turn into air flow blocking ice at bay.
Remember the defrost time is 21 minutes. If that heater was left on for 21 minutes it would not be purty. The termination thermostat is recommended to be replaced if it goes bad or whenever the heater is replaced. I say replace all 3 things in the circuit and be done with it. But who these days can afford that? If you suspect a defrost problem just unplug the ice box for a day or 2. If the ice box goes back to performing ok then you can suspect you indeed have a defrost problem.

May 21, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ive got an upright Whirlpool freezer that doesnt want to defrost. It takes about two weeks for the evaporater and defrost coils to totally ice up and then I have to take all the covers off and throw warm...


Fixing the defrost circuit is relatively simple. It made of three things, the defrost heater, the thermostat and the timer. The usual parts that fail are the heater and the timer. The first thing to check is the defrost timer. It looks like this:

slamfix_25.jpg It can found either near the compressor or in the little box inside that controls the temperature. What it does is that it powers the compressor for about 8 hours and then turns off the power for 45 minutes to allow the defrost heater to melt the frost buildup. The timer is run by a little motor. Often the motor stops working and the freezer is either stuck running the compressor continously or the defrost heater.

On the side of the timer is a little cam that you can turn with a straight blade screwdriver. Turn it until it clicks. When it does, the compressor should shut off and the heater should start to heat up. If you hear the crackling of ice melting, then the problem is with your timer not working. If the ice is not melting then the problem is either with the heater/thermostat. Check to see if the heater is burned out or use a meter to check continuity between the heater and the thermostat. If it is open then replace the heater and thermostat.

Any of the defrost parts should be available from an appliance supply house or online. Hope this helps you.

Jan 11, 2011 | Whirlpool 19.6 cu. ft. Commercial Freezer...

1 Answer

Refrigerator stopped cooling


My guess is that you have a defective defrost timer.

Most refrigerator operate on a 24-hour self-defrost cycle. It takes about 1/2 hour to complete. During that time, a timer shuts down the compressor, turns on a heater imbedded or surrounding the cooling coils, and melts any ice that has formed.

It then turns the refrigerator back on to resume its normal cycle. This happens once every 24 hours.

You might have a bad heater coil, but far more likely is the defrost timer. It's usually at the bottom of the refrigerator... A small black phonelic box with wires going into it.

While you've got the inside disassembled, you might want to check the heating coil, but my guess is that it's good. More often the not, the culprit is the self-defrost timer which is usually located under the refrigerator.

Newer models have solid state controls and sometimes have the defrost timer integrated into the circuit board, but some still have a separate defrost timer. I'd bet my reputation that's your problem.

Aug 21, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Compressor and fan work on cendenser, evaporater works, but the fan on the evaporater in the freezer rear cuts off after the initial run cycle. The coils then freeze. What are your suggestions replace...


Probably a bad defrost thermostat. The fan motor power runs through the defrost thermostat then to the fan motor.If the defrost thermostat is opening too soon, you get no fan and no defrost.
Yes you can replace this part yourself.

May 03, 2009 | Amana 25.9 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Refrigerator water condensation drain line freezing


GO TO THE FREEZER PORTION OF THE FRIG.YOU NEED TO TAKE THE ICEMAKER OUT AND REMOVE THE BACK PANEL WHERE THE EVAPORATER FAN IS .RIGHT UNDER THE COIL YOU WILL SEE A DRAIN ,WHEN YOUR FREEZER GOES ON DEFROST THE WATER GOES DOWN THE DRAIN AND INTO A PAN THAT SITS ON TOP OF THE COMPRESSOR.THE HEAT FROM THE COMPRESSOR EVAPORATES THE WATER.THE DRAIN IN THE FREEZER IS PROBABLY CLOGGED OR FROZEN OVER WITH ICE AND THATS WHY THE WATER IS GOING ELSEWARE.REMOVE ALL THE ICE FROM AROUND THE DRAIN.IF THERES A ROD THAT GOES DOWN THE DRAIN FROM THE DEFROST ELEMENT THATS SUPPOSED TO KEEP THE DRAIN FROM ICING UP ,IN ANY CASE THE DRAIN IS CLOGGED OR ICED UP.UNCLOG THE GRAIN AND YOU WILL BE GOOD TO GO.

Mar 20, 2009 | Whirlpool 21.7 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

The refrigerator/freezer isn't cold anymore. The light is one. The icemaker is still running, but no ice. The refrig. side started to go first, then the freezer side about 5 days later. Now it just blows...


Remove back wall cover from freezer compartment. Should have a nice even frost pattern. If large amount off ice buildup is on evaporater than air can not flow through entire unit correctly. This means that unit is not defrosting properly. Check continuity on defrost heater, if good replace defrost thermostat, located as a clipped on device at top of evaporater.

Jul 18, 2008 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Icing up in bottom of the freezer


I don't know the particulars of your brand, but if it is frosting up Most fridges will have a bad heater element, a bad defrost timer (or controller if it is electronic) or most likely a bad defrost limit switch. This is a switch mounted on the inlet line of the evaporator with a clip and senses when the evaporater is defrosted so that it does not get too hot and start melting parts. This switch should have zero ohms of resistance when cold (below 40ish) and be completely open when above 40 or so. The easiest way to test it is take the wall covering the evaporater off and locate the plugs for the swiths. Test continuity through it. If it is sitting in ice, it should have no resistance. If it is open and in ice (infinite resistance) then it's bad.

Oct 05, 2006 | Zanussi ZEBF250W Bottom Freezer...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Electrolux (ULG80BC) Commercial Refrigerator Logo

Related Topics:

30 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Electrolux Refrigerators Experts

Charles T Nevin
Charles T Nevin

Level 3 Expert

4070 Answers

John Tripp
John Tripp

Level 3 Expert

4654 Answers

Donald DCruz
Donald DCruz

Level 3 Expert

17130 Answers

Are you an Electrolux Refrigerator Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...