Question about Porter Cable Cable 14.4 Volt Cordless Drill/Driver Kit 9824

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Seems like the clutch has gone in the drill. Can this be replaced? When I squeeze the trigger the motor turn and the drill spins but if I put any pressure on the chuck it stops spinning even though the motor is still turning.

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Try rotating the driver adjustment to make sure it is on a definate number, not in between or put it all the way to the drill position. A little 3-in-one oil does wonders as dirt and dust will keep it from rotating and engaging easly. If this does not work and the clutch is stripped, cost of rebuilding it is not worth it, usually 70% to 80% of a new one and other parts on it will wear out and you will be fixing it again. Good Luck

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

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Well I couldn't find a pix of your drill so I will guess that it is a typical drill. You seem to be asking a very basic question so I will start will all the basic info I can think of.

First you have to know where the power trigger is to make it go.

2nd you have to know where the forward and reverse switch is.

Now with the switch in the forward position squeeze the trigger to make it go. Then gently grab the chuck with your hand while it is going and the center Jaws should close up and come out of the chuck.

Now with the switch in the reverse position squeeze the trigger to make it go. Then gently grab the chuck with your hand while it is going and the cetner Jaws should open up and go into the chuck to a maximum point

Open the jaws enough to put the drill in the jaws then put the switch in the forward position. Put the drill in the chuck, sqeeze the trigger to make it go, and hold the chuck so the jaws close on the drill. All while keeping the drill from falling out of the chuck.

When it closes on the drill and the drill is in straight then hold the chuck as tight as you can while squeezing the trigger to make the jaws close very tightly on the drill. If you have very tender hands you might want to use gloves.

To get the drill out put the switch in reverse, hold the chuck very tightly, and squeeze the trigger to open the jaws off of the drill.

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We were using a makita cordless power drill. Somehow the clutch got stuck and it won't spin or open where you put the drill bit in. The motor seems to be spinning, think the problem is just in the...


keyless chuck. grab the ring immediately behind the chuck and the tampered chuck piece with a padded channel lock plier. turn the chuck part clockwise to release.

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you will need to replace the chuck.look inside the chuck for a screw. it will be a left handed screw.once you get the screw out put the chuck in a vice . you will need to squeeze it very tight. then put the drill in reverse and pull the trigger.if i wont come off you will need to hit the chuck with a hammer while you are holding the trigger.

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With the DeWalt cordless drills, the weak link is that the leads tend to burn (melt) off at the motor brushes, It's happened to mine now about 3-4 times, so much so I've had to replace the wires after they got too short to put a new terminal back on them!

The only other issue is that the trigger mechanism could be faulty. but before you spend the bucks on that, you can easily check to see if it't the wiring or the trigger assembly.

Before you take anything apart, make sure the top speed selector is at #1, and the torque setting set to the lowest setting. (makes it easier to remember if you have the speed selector come out of the drill body)

Now lay the drill on it's side and with the battery out of the tool, remove all the screws that hold the two halves together. Take off the top half and look at the back end of the tool to see if the wires going to the motor are in good condition and not burned off the motor brush tabs. If they are, you can either resolder them or recrimp them (DeWalt used different methods for different models) with a new .25 female terminal (any auto or hardware store will have them)

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If the wires are good, then it's the trigger assembly and you'll have to get one from either a DeWalt Authorized service center or distributor that carries repair parts, as these are sealed units and can't be fixed (I've tried). There are some available online too, if you wish to do the replacement yourself, which is a straight forward unplug and plug operation, now that the tool is apart.

Reassemble, making sure the speed selector is in the slots on the tool body and everything else lines up correctly. Install the screws and you're back in business.

Hope you find this very helpful and best regards!

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