My Case 224 over heats when I run it for 20/30 minutes! The engine has all its shrouds on, the radiator screen for the hydro is very clean etc. It just heats up to the point that it starts pinging et

make sure engine is clean and remove blower houseing get all the grass and dirt off motor once thats done then run it

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Partially drain the cooling fan.
3. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
4. Remove the transmission oil cooler lines from the retainers at the bottom of the cooling fan shroud.
5. Remove the lower fan shroud push pin retainers.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Remove the right and the left engine mount struts.
8. Remove the left front fender upper diagonal brace.
9. Remove the radiator inlet hose from the radiator.
10. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
11. If equipped remove the cooling fan heat shields.
12. Disconnect the cooling fan shroud electrical connectors.
13. Remove the cooling fan shroud bolts.
14. Disengage the cooling fan shroud clip from the top of the radiator.
15. Remove the cooling fan shroud.

IF your 95 Blazer has a good water pump, properly operating fan, and a clean radiator, it should be running normal - but - we all know that isn't always the case.
Not seeing your vehicle, I can only guess the above components are in good order - if that is the case, I have a personal experience I could share.
My blazer would get very hot when running the A/C unit...
I looked at all the components and was puzzled until I pulled the fan shroud cover. Wedged between the radiator and the A.C condenser, was a layer of leaves and road debris that had been sucked up from the lower sides of the units. Once cleaned, the engine ran at its normal temperature in all phases of operation.
I took some foam strips from a window insulating kit and stuffed the space between the edges of the radiator and condenser to prevent further debris blockage. Good hunting...

You may need to loosen a heater hose and run the engine until all the air is out. Don't scald yourself!

180--------have radiator tested soon along with the waterpump

The "smell" is probably old coolant splashed in and around the engine, and radiator fins. When this residue gets hot it really stinks. Try rinsing out the engine compartment and radiator fins with low pressure water. It will go away.

OVERHEATING

Physically look in the radiator under the cap when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, have it boiled out, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.
Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place blocking the airflow. Simply reattach it with 4 or 5 screws.

Also, if the vehicle has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.

Hi, most likely the hydrostatic is over heating. Remove the battery and battery carrier. From here clean any grass and debris from the hydro and cooling fins, also check the cooling fan condition. Under the mower check the idler pulley on the hydro drive belt is travelling freely. Hope this helps, regards Phil.

hi
First check that the temperature gauge sender unit is working correctly it maybe faulty.
Check that the transmission is not causing to much heat going through the cooler from the load which runs through the radiator if it is automatic.
Ensure that the engine has had a proper flush when all the new parts were fitted. The engine block may have blocked galleries.
Hope this helps you out, let me know what you find.

Jason

Hello, have you done a maintenance on the cooling system, radiator flush, thermostat replacement, hoses, water pump etc? Also, has anyone taken off the radiator shroud? believe it or not, the shroud plays a big roll in the cooling of the engine.

If its not the cooling system

Is there any oil in the radiator fluid, or water in the oil, the oil will almost look like coffee creamer. check for white/blue smoke coming from the tail pipe, if you can do a pressure test in the cylinders, it may be the head gasket then.

The shroud around the radiator fan mainly assists cooling at lower road speeds - it increases the efficiency of the cooling fan/s.
At higher road speeds the increased airflow due to vehicle speed makes the fan and shroud less important in that circumstance.

Running hot at higher roadspeeds can be caused by either engine mechanical fault (blown headgasket etc) or defective cooling system:-
Check for combustion gas bubbles in coolant reservoir - and ensure engine has no other mechanical running problems.

Check cooling system as follows:-
1) Faulty thermostat,
2) Blocked radiator air flow due obstruction such as grasshoppers or other insects,
3) Blocked radiator core (internal) by sludge/scale etc.
4) Collapsing radiator hose on intake side of waterpump (due to softened hose),
5) Cooling system not properly filled with coolant due air locks in the system - bleed off any air (as manufacturer specifies) during re-fill with coolant and ensure flow to heater core is enabled.