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Igniter/sensor/and two coils that release the gas. replaced. still no heat. gas is on.

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Did you check the thermal fuse? if the fuse is good, make sure there's 120V coming into the ignitor from the timer. if negative, then you have a bad timer.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

  • Ned Halaweh
    Ned Halaweh Jul 08, 2009

    did you check the thermal fuse? if the fuse is good, make sure there's 120V coming into the ignitor from the timer. if negative, then you have a bad timer.

  • Ned Halaweh
    Ned Halaweh Jul 08, 2009

    did you check the thermal fuse? if the fuse is good, make sure there's 120V coming into the ignitor from the timer. if negative, then you have a bad timer. good luck :)

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1 Answer

Kenmore Elite He3 gas dryer (110-92832100) not heating. Igniter glows red for a min or so, drum spins, hear a loud 'buzzing' noise....


The problem could be flame radiant sensor or in most cases the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valves. The radiant sensor must be aligned perfectly with the igniter. The radiant sensor contacts bypasses one of the gas valve solenoid coils and as the igniter heats up it makes the sensor contact trips unbypassing the coil and allowing the gas to flow and be ignited.

The problem is with the solenoid coils,
one with 2-prongs and the other has 3, if the radiant sensor is aligned with igniter and working perfectly but no gas is ignited. The buzzing sound is coming from the coils trying to operate the valves. Replacing both coils is the simple and only viable solution.

Jul 18, 2011 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My drying is blow cold air intead of hot to dry the clothes . what can the problem be


Components:

Igniter: Line voltage brings the igniter temp to about 2200 degrees F in 30 seconds.
Radiant Sensor: Works like a thermostat, normally closed, opens when sensing the heat from the igniter or burner flame.
When cold the radiant sensor contacts are closed and circuit is completed to the igniter. When the igniter heats up, the radiant sensor senses the heat and the contacts open, breaking the circuit to the igniter.
Gas Valve: The gas valve is 2 valve gas valves in series. This is for added safety in case one of the valves fails to seat properly.
Valve 1 (the closest to the supply pipe) has a split coil solenoid (2 coils, 1 solenoid and armature). The upper is the holding coil and the lower is the booster coil. The power of both coils is required to lift the armature. Once the armature is up only the holding coil is required to keep it up.
The second valve has only one coil and is called the secondary coil.

Operation:

At the beginning of a cycle, the sensor contacts are closed, the igniter is cold and the both gas valves are closed.
(NOTE) The sensor contacts are wired in parallel with the secondary coil so current bypasses the secondary coil. As long as the sensor contacts are closed the valve can not be open unless the valve itself is at fault. However when gas pressure is first applied by turning on the gas ****, a small amount of gas may pass though the vent until the pressure regulator is balanced.
The booster coil and igniter are wired in parallel with each other and wired in series with the sensor and secondary combined. When the sensor contacts are closed full line voltage is available to both the igniter and the booster coil. When the sensor contacts are open current must flow though the secondary to get to the igniter and booster coil and a large voltage drop results across the secondary coil. Even though the parallel booster coil and igniter are still in the circuit they are ineffective due to the reduced voltage available to them.

Call for heat: Power is applied to the circuit.

Step 1: Radiant sensor contacts are closed, the holding coil, booster coil and igniter get full line voltage. The holding coil and booster have enough power to open valve 1 (first click)and the igniter begins to get hot and glow. At this time sine the sensor contacts are closed the secondary coil is bypassed so valve 2 remains closed to prevent gas from leaving the burner.
Step 2: The igniter is getting red hot and gas valve 1 is open. As the igniter gets hot its resistance decreases. At the same time the heat from the igniter causes the radiant sensor contacts to open.
Step 3: Valve 1 is now held open by the holding coil. The sensor contacts are open due to the heat from the igniter. The current paths in the circuit change.
With the sensor contacts open the secondary coil is no longer bypassed and is now in series with the parallel combination of the booster coil and igniter. Because of the low resistance of the hot igniter, most of the line voltage is dropped across the secondary coil. Only a small percentage is dropped across the booster coil and igniter. (Sometimes a small click as the booster drops out).
So the secondary coil now opens valve 2 (click 2) releasing gas across the still red hot igniter and the gas is ignited on contact. While the igniter will cool the tip is still in the flame which is enough to keep the resistance low. At the same time the heat from the burner will keep the radiant sensor contacts open.
It the flame goes out the sensor will cool and the contacts will open bypassing the secondary coil and valve 2 will close. When power is removed from the circuit both valves will close due to gas pressure and spring pressure of the armatures.

Feb 20, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Gas dryer does not heat up. Gas is on and the


Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Aug 01, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Whirlppol model LGV6634BWO gas, no heat


Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Jul 26, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer heat starts then no heat


Hi, the most common issue will be a set of defective coils but, i suggest that you run through all points and check all the listed check points before replacing the coils.

1. Gas valve coils
igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. igniter
igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Jun 18, 2009 | GE Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer burner just stopped working. the motor turns but no heat. It also will not start on timed heat.


HI, i recommend inspecting all areas stated below to address this issue. the most common problem will be a set of defective gas valve coils but, i suggest checking all points before replacing the coils.


1. Gas valve coils
igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. igniter
igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Jun 18, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer heats randomly..Igniter is working.


Generally operation when cold that worsens with use indicates a component that is failing when hot. Start at the burner with the coils and work your way back to relays on the control. Sounds a lot like a bad coil on the burner. I have seen these do 2 complete loads then fail. Setting over night and cooling off will work again the same way. Intermittent conditions are a real challenge sometimes.
Eric

Jun 17, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Alg331raw gas dryer. Runs but no heat. Worked


Check the following to address this issue


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Jun 04, 2009 | Amana ALG331RAW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Gas Dryer does not continue to heat.


Check the Following to address this issue--



1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.


Jun 02, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

No heat burner comes on for a few minutes and then goes out


Check the following to address this issue.

1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Jun 02, 2009 | Kenmore 72062 Gas Dryer

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