Has a flat spot 3-4 k but otherwise runs and drives well
Its not adjustable- if theres a flat spot it needs a very good cleaning or replacement. Likley a replacement as they are a potentiometer and sometimes do wear at often used spots
SOURCE: Bike won't stay running
Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each CARB float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Install new stock NGK spark plugs.
Remove the CARBS from the bike.
FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire CARB with a spray CARB cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the CARB. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the CARB and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the CARB back together, clean the air filter and install the CARB. Install an in-line fuel filter. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.
BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT CARB one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.
Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT CARB one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.
SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS
Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both CARBS. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each CARB such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other CARB.
With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other CARB so that the slide on that CARB just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both CARBS begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.
Turn the idle screw on each CARB EXACTLY ONE HALF turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just balanced and synchronized your CARBS This should fix the problem. One last and VERY IMPORTANT thing, Have a fire extinguisher handy and ready for use any time you work on or with he CARBS.
Please rate this solution. Thanks throttlejock!
have you tried the obvious route of a restricted air flow or even might have a restrictor fitted to it or is it just started doing this
SOURCE: unable to push rear brake pistons back into
Did you try to remove the bleeder screw at the caliper in question?
Please visit this site http://www.ehow.com/video_2328428_assess-motorcycle-brake-repair.htm
Hope it helps!
SOURCE: 2004 Suzuki GSXR 750: When using a K&N air
You will need to rejet the carbs for the extra air making it into the chamber.
SOURCE: Replaced Clutch Cable on Suzuki
Sounds good or just adjust it so it has 1/4 inch of freeplay at the end of the handle. If the cable adjuster seems be be turned all the way in then theirs a screw and locknut adjuster where the cable connects on the engine end. with the lock nut loose turn the screw out for more freeplay and in for less. Make sure you tighten this locknut as it'll cause you all kinds of problems out on the road when it changes as you drive.
. Fig. 1: Throttle position sensor testing
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