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do you have body tools ? cut off wheel die grinder ? small cutoff wheels ? a spot weld cutter drill bit a drill ? a mig welder hammers sheet metal screw and drill bit 1/8"..? a pro will grind all the spot welds out with these mini cutoff wheels it mite be possible to grind through the spot welds around the wheel wheel well area or cut the spot welds with a spotweld cutter drill bit (air drill helpfull) dont grind a hole all the way through the inner support sheet metal when cutting/grinding out spot welds .Once all the welds are grinded or cut out around wheel well then threre is an area behind the bumper (remove it) cut the welds there or a cheat might just cut throgh the sheetmetal behind the bumper okay?. lok at the panel you are installing it is just like what you will be taking off okay ? if you are to weld the pillar high or lower pillar you decide make a measurement leave at least 4 inches tooverlap the new panel to the top ofthe car piller the hatch or trunk area take the rubberseal off the body take th inner panel loose and out put aside .okay ?it may be nessesary to cut the rear rocker panel near the door opening (look at new panel) measure and cut with cutoff wheel just through the panel dont cut deep cut the bottom aarea between the door opening and wheel well area at edge only the top layer door cut all the way into any lower metal sandwiched to the outer panel okay ? the door opening is where you will cut the remaining welds as to dislocate the panel entirely (dont grind through the under metal just the top sheet at welds )okay ?After this you should pry any reamaining parts of the old panel dont bend the pillar when prying panel off look behind the panel any glue ? body rubber cut with knike or putty scrapper" if theres any crosse welds you will have t cut the panel some more leave any truck floor metal alone you will need to hook back to this area . Once all the old panel is cut sometime in 2 or 3 peices you will began to try fit the new panel if the quarter is to be welded into the door opening area it is criticle to postion it perfectly first when you are ready to weld the new panel fasten it in place with sheet metal screws or rivets .Asuming you are a good mig welder you will begin at the top on the piller taking several places about 4 inches apart alow time for panel to col of wip it with a wet cloth to speed cooling .Watch the shape is it deforming bad if so you welding to close together but finish the top weld on the planel first until you have tack weld about 2 inches apart after wards look at the door area is it still centered where you can weld it ? if so good if not well not good . The next area wil be the door inseam tack weld at the top do bout 6 inches of this area then stop look at the hatch/trunck ara is it claped or screwed together ?(you should have drilled little 3/16" holes just where the old weld was dun it is through these holes in the new panel you will weld the new tack welds that attache the new panel to the body under support (structure) if no hole you will make holes before you attach the panel in place understand?)after welding the hatch truck area about half the way go back and finish the door area which is claped and screewed temporarily together last you will weld the wheel and then finally the area behind the bumper and if your welding the bottom to the eld under side the panel as some beginners will use screws on this under area because its the hardest to weld . when the whole area is tacked go back to the piller and weld it solid across and into the hatch or glass ,Speaking of glass they should be removed as wel will damage them the whole top of the car and any glase should be covered with fiberglass weld blanket if yu dont have one get a big cardboard refrigrator box and tape it to car top windowes where weld splatterso beware will burn spots on surface making a lot of damage . Grinde the weld down with die grinder and rotary abrasive wheel or stone . When the weld has been smoother with grinder it will be time to sand nearby pained area subjacent to (next too) areas with 80 grit sandpaper". After that a layer of body filler (bondo) is applied to the areas of the joint/s at the roof piller" and at the rocker panel joints use less hardener on the first coat as you will be doing 2 or three coats building up the layers and extending about 5 inches onto the top of the piller and maybe say 10 inches onto the bottom of the new panel okay when body is hard sand it untill it is smooth filling any low areas and re-sand after bondo filler use 220 grit then 325 grit then 400 grit prime filler and panel with grey primer and tape car sand primer with 500 grit wet and dri and wash paint then paint with same auto paint(color) over lap and polish paint .Reinstall any lights bumper cover and weather strip use come caulk or weld seam sealer to seal any cracks between the metal at the door or hatch /trunk area before painting .Reinstall any glass removed, take tape off add sound deadner" if necessary? reinstall inner panels ect. thats it "your done" clean up your car
If you take off the outer door skin you will have to replace it. They are folded the welded around the inner frame. Generally a door skin removal tool is used to cut/grind the skin off. There are several youtube videos on this process as it is difficult to explain step by step.
the news will not what you want to read but ---
the cost to do hat will be more than the motor is worth
welding the hole up will be a disaster as the weld will not go down the hole but simply weld over the top
next to drill the hole if you were successful in the welding would need the shaft to placed in a lathe so that it could be drilled dead center and the thread in installed straight in
I would suggest that you get the price of a shaft from a mower shop or from a mower wreckers or get the price of a new motor and then make a decision from there
You will need a drill, mig welder, small grinder, and tools,(sockets, torx bits, etc.) Remove headlights, grille, bumper, from front. You will then need to remove all the parts connected to the support and upper and lower tie bars if you are replacing them too. You probably will want to completely remove the hood and loosen the fenders. The support is spot welded in so you must drill the welds to loosen the parts. You can use a regular spot weld bit or a 3/8 metal drill bit works well also. If you have never done this it will help if you have the new part so you can see where to seperate everything. After you get the old support off you will need to weld the new part in by welding through the holes you drilled to remove the old one. This is a pretty big undertaking if you are not trained in the field. I am retired from the collision repair profession and if you want to tackle this I will be happy to assist with more details if needed. Good luck.
Increase your idle setting on the 1/8" threaded rod protruding to the left of the carburetor until V= 125. Then run your drill. Actuating the drill should call the throttle solenoid to open up to produce more power.
1. Easy out, you should be able to drill out the hole for the easy out with the right bit and some wd. 2. if its steel in aluminum, If you cannot get a vise grip on it, weld something to the stud stub, let cool, then heat the aluminum around the stud and try removing it. Al. should expand outward giving you a little play. Just be careful of the gasket surface.
Hi, Don't stress, its working fine. The grinder has a sort of self test when you put the battery in, it blinks. What you don't want is the light to come on when you are using it. That means that you are bogging it down and if on for 30 seconds ( if I remember right) it will shut the grinder off until you reset it by turning it off and then on again. So no worries!
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