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No high voltage. Turned on green light on the front for a few seconds. changed hot low voltage supply, powers up but still no high voltage and no b plus. any ideas?

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  • mrdane3263 Jul 03, 2009

    when i said i changed the hot what i change was the H.O.T

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It may due to the voltage fluctuation

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

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What did you change the voltage from? make/model of tv? you should not adjust the voltage of the tv to the wrong voltage it can harm the the tv's electronics.

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

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Hi...

Yes, do a hard reset and see if it helps (I give it only a 25% chance it will). Merely unplug the power cord for 4 hours or more. Then power it back up again.

It may turn on again and shut down soon thereafter.

The protection circuit has been activated. This is due to a shorted condition somewhere in the set. In your case since you indicated that the white screen came up shortly which to me indicates the problem is likely not with the high voltage generator, but something either in the deflection circuits or the main power supply.

The set is not "old" in terms of big screen products. It should be good for a life of 12 to 15 years. Therefore, it is worthy of the repair expense. The repairs typically run around $250 to $300 for this kind of repair. The house call you mentioned of $150 is too high unless the tech is coming from a long distance and/or the service company provides something in addition to making a diagnosis report. More typical is $40 to $80 for house calls.

Maybe try two or three different shops to see if they are able to give you a better deal. Also, you can give them my "long distance diagnosis" of either one of the deflection amplifiers or the main power supply and it may help them know what to expect in advance of coming out.

Let me know if I can help further. I would like to hear back from you - as reality check to see what the final outcome was and if my prediction of the repairs was correct or not. Appreciate your help.

Good luck

Regards

PCmania

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

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First check loose conect and electric problem check ur plug point try another plug .........then
If the picture is dropping out all together but the sound is remaining on it points to a failure of the high voltage.

If the picture, when it does come on, has a misregistered pattern, that is the colors are shifted and not aligned that is a convergence failure.

Sometimes the convergence will fail, short down, drain the power supply sufficiently it will cause the HOT and High Voltage to drop out.

So, your problem could be convergence AND/OR high voltage failures.

If it is intermittent and comes and goes it compounds the troubleshooting, making it more expensive than a total failure.

The cost of repairing the convergence circuit is always expensive. Over $400 for example.

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

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You have to check voltages at power supply because any one of the usual four voltages being low or high will shut down as described, so you have to check all voltages. 5V is usually the culprit.
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There is no need to rewire the internal of the heater!
Just bring in the electrical supply to the heater, it can be either 120 or 240 volts.
If the heater you have is like the picture associated with your post, then all then have to do is change the supplied plug from 240 to 120. It comes pre set for 240. That plug is inside the cabinet.

If any other brand, then you need to change the wires at the transformer of the heater. All heaters need to be supplied with primary voltage: 120 or 240. Then the control system is supplied with secondary voltage out of the transformer. The secondary voltage is no more than 28 volts. and these wires are normally colored as blue or yellow.

Secondary power is already wired within the heater. NO need to change where they are. You will only need to deal with the Primary wiring.

There are many varieties of transformers that transform high primary voltage to a low secondary voltage of 28 volts. and these transformers have many wires: primary & secondary.
I will try to make this easy to understand.

If you have a Gas Heater Transformer with these colors:
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  • Black
  • White
  • Green
Or...
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  • White with Red Stripe
  • Black
  • White with Black Stripe
  • Green
These are Dual Voltage Transformers, you can bring in either 120 Volts or 240 Volts

If you bring in only 120 Volts...
1st example:
The Red wire will not be used! Hot wire to the Black, and the Neutral/Common, to the white wire. Green to ground.

2nd example:
Connect the Red wire with the White with Red Stripe together and connect these to the incoming Neutral/Common wire, normally White.
Connect the Black Wire with the White with Black Stripe to your incoming Hot Wire, which is normally Black.
Green to ground

If you bring in 240 Volts...
1st example.
1 Hot wire to the Red, the Other Hot wire to the Black, and White wire is not used. Green to ground

2nd Example:
Wire nut the two Striped wires together. then one incoming Hot wire to the Black, the other incoming Hot wire to Red.
Green to ground

Or This is only a Low voltage - 120 Volts Only
  • Black
  • White
  • Green
Or either any of these combinations...
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  • 2 Reds w/Green
  • 1 Black, 1 Red w/green
This type will only be a high voltage, 240 volts only
Picture below is what a transformer looks like and it is where your incoming supply wires go. The smaller leads with the spade connections will go to a specific location & is the 'Secondary" .

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25568369-di2jpn2pb5nzkrgf0hzbmyq5-3-0.jpg

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Hello,

The screen is blank with no raster at all. There are indications that the channel numbers are changing in the display. This indicates that some of the low voltages are present but these may be derived from the standby supply.
Assuming there is no deflection and no High Voltage, you either have a low voltage power supply problem, bad start up circuit, or bad horizontal output transistor (HOT) or other bad parts in the horizontal deflection.

Check for bad fuses.

(If you have High Voltage as indicated by static electricity on the front of the screen and you hear the high pitched whine of the horizontal deflection when it is turned on, then the following does not apply).

Use an ohmmeter to test the HOT for shorts. If it is bad, look for open fusable resistors or other fuses you did not catch.
Assuming it is good, measure the voltage on the collector-emitter of the HOT (this is safe if there is no deflection). You should see the B+ - probably between 100 and 150 V.
If there is no voltage, you have a low voltage power supply problem and/or you have not found all the bad/open parts.
If there is voltage and no deflection (no high pitched whine and no HIGH VOLTAGE), you probably have a start up problem - all TVs need some kind of circuit to kick start the horizontal deflection until the auxiliary power outputs of the flyback are available. Some Zeniths use a simple multivibrator for this - a couple of transistors. Others power the horizontal osc. IC from a special line-derived voltage. The multivibrator type are sometimes designed to fail if someone keeps turning the set on and off (like kids playing) since the power rating is inadequate.
Test the transistors if it is that type with an ohmmeter. If one is shorted, you have a problem. The usual way a TV service person would test for start up problems is to inject a signal to the base of the HOT of about 15.75 kHz. If the TV then starts and runs once this signal is removed, the diagnosis is confirmed. This is risky - you can blow things up if not careful (including yourself).

If you hear the high pitched whine of the deflection and/or feel some static on the scree, confirm that the horizontal deflection and high voltage are working by adjusting the SCREEN control (probably on the flyback). If you can get a raster then your problem is probably in the video or chroma circuits, not the deflection or high voltage.

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Hello,

The screen is blank with no raster at all. There are indications that the channel numbers are changing in the display. This indicates that some of the low voltages are present but these may be derived from the standby supply.

Assuming there is no deflection and no High Voltage , you either have a low voltage power supply problem, bad startup circuit, or bad horizontal output transistor (HOT) or other bad parts in the horizontal deflection.

Check for bad fuses.

(If you have High Voltage as indicated by static electricity on the front of the screen and you hear the high pitched whine of the horizontal deflection when it is turned on, then the following does not apply).

Use an ohmmeter to test the HOT for shorts. If it is bad, look for open fusable resistors or other fuses you did not catch.

Assuming it is good, measure the voltage on the collector-emitter of the HOT (this is safe if there is no deflection). You should see the B+ - probably between 100 and 150 V.

If there is no voltage, you have a low voltage power supply problem and/or you have not found all the bad/open parts.

If there is voltage and no deflection (no high pitched whine and no High Voltage), you probably have a startup problem - all TVs need some kind of circuit to kick start the horizontal deflection until the auxiliary power outputs of the flyback are available. Some Zeniths use a simple multivibrator for this - a couple of transistors. Others power the horizontal osillator. IC from a special line-derived voltage. The multivibrator type are sometimes designed to fail if someone keeps turning the set on and off (like kids playing) since the power rating is inadequate.

Test the transistors if it is that type with an ohmmeter. If one is shorted, you have a problem. The usual way a TV service person would test for startup problems is to inject a signal to the base of the HOT of about 15.75 kHz. If the TV then starts and runs once this signal is removed, the diagnosis is confirmed. This is risky - you can blow things up if not careful (including yourself). See the section: Bypassing the Startup Circuit for details.

If you hear the high pitched whine of the deflection and/or feel some static on the scree, confirm that the horizontal deflection and high voltage are working by adjusting the SCREEN control (probably on the flyback). If you can get a raster then your problem is probably in the video or chroma circuits, not the deflection or high voltage.
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