How do fix error code F 28 on a Kenmore HE2 plus
Unfortunately this is a bad error code. Most times it is either the control panel or the main control unit. Both are expensive and there is no way to determine which has failed with out replacing them.
Sorry for the bad news.
Here is what the tech sheet has to say about the error code;
SERIAL COMMUNICATION ERROR
Possible Causes/Procedure
- Unplug washer or disconnect power.
- Check that the power cord terminals are connected at the right position to the RFI filter
(white-Neutral/ black-Line).
- Check the two ground switches are pressed correctly by the toe and rear panels.
- Check that ground switches are fitted correctly, and are not broken and the green
ground wires are connected correctly.
- Check both ground switches are not broken or have not scratch on them.
- Check that all the ground harnesses (green wires) are connected correctly and are not
broken or wires became detached.
- Check all wire harness connections from the CCU (MI3 cavity), main Motor and MCU are
not broken or wires detached and connector internal pins are visible.
- Check for continuity from the MCU connector wires to CCU (MI3 cavity) connector.
- If the continuity diagnosis failed the Main Harness must be replaced.
- Make sure that all the connectors are fully seated.
- Check the drive system for any worn or failed components.
- Plug in washer or reconnect power.
- Verify the unit operation by running a test cycle.
SOURCE: Kenmore HE2 Plus Error Code: F-20
You probably have this solved by now but for others who read this as I did.............
F-20 means
“F20” on display
(Water Inlet Problem—no water or insufficient
water supply)
Select PAUSE/CANCEL twice to cancel the cycle
Unplug washer or disconnect power.
Check the following:
Are water faucets completely turned on?
Are screens at inlet hose connection to washer
clogged? Are water inlet hoses kinked?
Are water inlet hoses frozen?
Hope this helps everyone else as it did me, thanks
SOURCE: Kenmore HE2 front load washer. All cycle lights flashing plus spin and clothes clean lights on.
I'm sure this is probably too late, but hopefully it will help some else. I just had the same problem. First, unplug the power. Then take the lower front panel off and grabbed a bucket. Place the bucket under the large "plug" on your right. This is the drain. Slowly unscrew the drain plug, Hold your nose as it will probably smell. Allow the water and such to drain into the bucket. When you see the blob of wet lint drop into the bucket you will know why the machine refused to work. Make sure you clean the drain plug and screw it back in tightly. Put the lower panel back on and reconnect the power. I hope this resolves your issue.
SOURCE: Kenmore HE2 Plus error code F21
F21 Is a slow or long drain.
Things to look for kinked drain hose,
Plugged or obstructed drain hose, Possible pump filter screen clogged,
Least unlikely is a drain pump failure.
The pump filter screen is
the most common it gets plugged with lint, coins, hair etc. It can be
cleaned by the owner however is is a very dirty messy job and if you are
not very careful you can end up with water everywhere. If you want to
attempt it let me know. If there is anything else I can do to help
please let me know.
SOURCE: have a kenmore he2 plus washing machine says f-24
This advice is for Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite model FRONT LOADERS displaying the "F24" Error Code. Some of the error codes on these model washers can be erroneous, however. The first step in troubleshooting any error code is to simply unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of the washing machine. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem.
"F24" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor.
To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a 2 x 4 under the front feet of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Make sure this plug is secure and not loose or unplugged. It is common for the connector plug to come loose due to vibration. If the plug is intact, check the contacts for corrosion. If everything appears as it should, then unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:
Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms
Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.
Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.
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SOURCE: What is error code F22 on the Kenmore HE2 Plus
This is an indication of a door latch failure and/or interconnecting wiring problem. The first step in troubleshooting the problem is to unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of your washing machine. Sometimes these error codes are erroneous and can be easily cleared by resetting the CCU. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem. In addition, if the door latch remains locked following this procedure, there is a manual release you can use to open the door. Follow these steps:
1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with a 2 x 4, it makes access to the screws much easier.
2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose.
3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located.
4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.
If you still have the error code displayed, inspect the door latch mechanism for any broken, loose, or missing components. Next, open the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws in the rear of the washer that hold the panel in place. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then off. Locate the door latch on the right hand side behind the front panel. Inspect the wiring harness from the door latch to the to CCU. The CCU is located directly behind the wash tub in the top rear of the washer. Make sure all the connectors are snug and not loose or broken. In the majority of cases, a persistent error is a failed door latch. If all these preliminary checks are unsuccessful, replace the door latch. Follow these steps:
1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.
NOTE: Another method is to access behind the front panel from the top with the top panel removed. Either method works, but I have found that going through the front offers better access.
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