I have an Exide Car Battery Charger (Model 7067512). It stopped working, and I've narrowed the problem to a bad diode. The diode does not have any part numbers written on it. Exide was not able to help. Century Tools, which stocks car battery charger parts, could not find my model number and was not able to help. Can I use an alternator diode (stocked at Sears)? How can I determine the diode rating that I should look for (i.e., my Exide Charger has a 75/12/2 amps charging options, should I look for a 75 amps surge amp rating on a replacement diode?) Thanks.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Sounds like a bad connection somewhere. Maybe the thieves or the repair shop damaged/loosened something. I would start the car and start wiggling/moving wires and connections to try to narrow down where the problem is. Start at the alternator connections, both at the alternator and where the thick wire connects, probably at the power distribution box but it may go straight to the battery; don't recall on that car.
you need a battery charger,density measuring tool and a lot of patience.Ina functioning new battery electrolyte measurement should read 1250.The acid part of a non functioning battery gradually is absorbed by plates and produces leadsulphur.If elecrolyte level in the battery is ok,put your battery under A High Voltage Low current charge.Use a 40Wcondensant light bulb connect a 1ampere diode in seies with it connect the +ve terminal of diode to +ve side of bettery and connect -veside of battery and 40W lamp into your mains inlet(220V or 110V).Leave your battery under charge for 24 hours .If the light bulb starts emitting light leave battey under charge for a few more days and then continue charging with a high curent(2-5)ampers-low voltage charger for a few more days.Hope your battery is back to life.N.B.IN THE FIRST STAGES OF CHARGE LIVE AND DANGEROUS VOLAGE (220) IS PRESENT AT YOUR BATTERY TERMINALS .SO BE VERY CAREFUL.
Please respond and clarify what model HTC phone you have and what happens when you try to charge it.
Also, what charger are you using? Is it the original charger? How about another charger. Do you have a car charger or another wall charger that you can try to use? Just try to narrow it down to a bad charger or if the phone is the problem. Also, if you can find another battery (at your local cell phone store), they should help testing the battery.
If this is for the 14 and 18 volt batteries, this is what I found had occured on one model I repaired (I've forgotten the charger model number):
It had a shorted diode (the bad one had obvious burn marks on the pc board). I used an NTE 5809 diode to replace the original one. BTW you'll need a Tamperproof Torx T-10 to open the case to access the pc board.
It depends on which brand of car battery you prefer. You will get a range of different opinions on which brands are the best based on experiences with different brands. If you are happy with the Exide brand then the battery selection depends upon which engine you have fitted in the car - the 2.2 litre or 2.4 litre. Anyhow here are some Exide models that will fit your vehicle. You need an Exide 75 size/model with the correct minimum CCA (cold cranking amps)
Any large battery retailer will be able to help you select a battery suitabe for your car but many specialise in particular brands. Personally I prefer to select a heavy duty battery that is suitable for the vehicle and will offer more than the minimum required cranking amps.