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Posted on Jul 03, 2009
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Kenmore 90 Series washer wont advance past wash cycle.

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  • Master 5,911 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 03, 2009
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A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.

I hope this helps you. Let me know if you have any questions.

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Related Questions:

tip

We have a Kenmore 90 series hvy duty top loader, it works fine in wash cycle but...

This advice is for all Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADING washing machines. This includes Kenmore, Estate and Roper models as well. This is an easy repair that anyone with a little know-how and determination can perform.

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up.

If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the white plastic lid switch connector plug. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located adjacent to one of the lid hinges in the rear.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first (this is the end of the clip with the 90 degree bend), and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.


I hope this information is helpful..
on Jul 26, 2010 • Washing Machines
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Yes, most likely but to be sure you can check voltage at the timer assembly 2 small black wires coming out of the timer.....
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Tip the washer onto the front and you will be able to see through the bottom to look for leaks.
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You need to replace the drive block and basket drive. You can download a tutorial to get you started at www.shop.washermd.com. The gearcase replacement tutorial will put you in the right direction. Dave
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Sounds like the timer has failed. It's a common problem.

Part number 8545379, $83.69 from SearsPartsDirect.com
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Kenmore 90 Series Washer

You have a broken lid switch. Its # ll in the diagram. Part # is 3949238. Let me know if you need info on how to replace it, Dave www.washermd.com
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