Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer not blowing hot air

Gas dryer is not blowing hot air. Just checked the thermal fuse, getting continuity there.

Also, the timer does not move - not sure if it is waiting for the gas to ignite. Any thoughts?

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  • m_grzovic Jul 03, 2009

    Vic,

    Thanks for the quick response . . . was not expecting that.

    The ignitor does not glow, I tried the auto dry cycle, and the timed dry. What am I checking for on the sensor, ignitor and thermostats (voltages, or continuity)? I guess I'll be taking off the front cover.

    MG

  • m_grzovic Jul 03, 2009

    Vic,

    Thank you again for the quick reply. I've got 121.5VAC at the connector for the ignitor. So hopefully, that will be the culprit. Any ideas on where I might be able to locate one at 10:30p?

    I thought I was doing a decent job keeping up with the lint until I pulled off that front cover. I'm suprised the "critical need indicator" (ie component failure) didn't go off sooner.

    MG

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Hi, If you use the automatic dry cycle, there needs to be heat in order for the timer to advance.
Remove the little cap in the front lower left corner and start the dryer. The ignitor should glow for about 15 seconds and then the gas should ignite. If there is no glow from the ignitor and the fuse is good, you will need to remove the front panel and check the senser on the burner, the ignitor, and the thermostats.
I hope this helps you. If you need more assistance on this issue, please let me know.

Vic

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

  • Victor
    Victor Jul 03, 2009

    MG, Once you get the front off, remove the belt and drum so you can check voltage to the ignitor. MAKE sure you notice the belt pattern and how it threads through the idler pulley. Once you get the drum out, start the dryer and check voltage on the ignitor plug. There should be 120V. If there is voltage, and no ignition, change the ignitor. If there is not voltage, check continuity on the thermostats. You can check continuity on the sensor on the right side of the burner if the thermostats all check out ok.

    Vic

  • Victor
    Victor Jul 03, 2009

    If this is a flat ignitor, here is the part #279311

    www.repairclinic.com will have these

    I believe you found the problem!!

    Good luck and you are most welcome for the info.

    Vic

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What is wrong with a whirlpool gas dryer model #LGR4634EQ2 that won't heat and the timer runs down to near the end but not far enough to shut off?


Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

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1 Answer

Hotpoint model dll3680s will not heat. thermostats test ok but no power to ignitor. could it possibly by the timer?


Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

GOD IS GOOD !!!!

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I WOULD START WITH:
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1 Answer

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If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back

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