Go to jlaudio.com and go to thw w7 and get the user manual, if u cant find the manual then, take off the outside rim and then take off the the small ring that holds the sub foam down, then u have acces to the screws behind the foam.(12screws)
Hi there mate. which foam are you talking about, in the box or on the actual sub? you should be able to remove either to be able to get to the drilling holes. send some photoes if you want to firstname.lastname@example.org and i can have a further look.
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Its blown. Maybe not completely but youve done some damage. If your sure its not hitting the box anywhere and its tight, then thats what it is. Youve burnt the voice coils a little. They regulate how far the sub goes in and out. I have two kicker L7 12s that have bad voice coils. And thats what they do. Theyre in my trunk though so its not to noticeable and they still hit super hard.
Hey well in sereies shouldnt ruin them it would give you a very high independece. what is each sub dual 2 ohm or 4 ohm? and what amp are they going to? cheek out some sites its complecated to tell you. 3 dual 4 ohm subs hooked together + to+ on a sub makes it a 2ohm sub now.....so you do it to all of them and you get between .5-1ohm something like that.
Really it all depends on how you want them to sound, and to be set up. There really is not specific air space, but there are general air spaces that work, and some times the manufacture will list some specs for different set ups. It also depends on the size of the sub, which you did not specify.
Kicker recommends as follows.
0.4 cubs per sub for a compact box, and 1.8 for an SQ box. SQ stand for sound quality.
So if you want a small box, do .4 per sub. If you want a better sounding box do 1.8.
Rule of thumb and something to think about.
The more air space in the sub, the less power you can run, the less air space, the more power you can run.
For example you can run 200 watts RMS per sub at .4 cubes, but only 140 watts RMS with 1.8.
As well, the smaller box will be louder, But not sound as good.
Try going to Alpine web site, I think they have box building program as well that you just input your sub models into and it gives you blueprints for various types of enclosures. I know Rockford has one and a comparative attachment to compare equipt specs. Or if you call Alpine headquarters you may be able to get info that way, I once sweet talked a rep @ a demo vehicle I met doing some car shows that turned me on to a senior rep @ Korbon Trading the owners of Rockford Fosgate and they gave me specs for a 5 stage band pass box for some competition subs that was more intricate and detailed than anyone before that could find me, Won me first place in spl. Matching your box specs to your subs is crucial and the best specs are often kept a secret for demo competition vehicles! So ask around with some competition guys or other top experts if your real serious about your boooom.
I would try walling it up unless you are going to buy 2 brand new subs. the problem is the older power subs had such small magnets so they needed alot less air space inside the box. Unless you can find the EXACT subs this box was made for I would recommend chopping it and doing a single sub. if you try a replacement sub go with the 12" P1 series they are a close match for the power 12's of the past.
You would be better served to go to a local shop and get the correct fittings to fit the connections, and use those to connect your subs. Just running the wire tips will result in loosed connections and plenty of headaches..