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Hello Donna , If by saying "stays lit" ya mean that the flame goes off when turning off the knob yet it continues to spark all the time ?? if yes that's whats happening the flame goes off but it keeps sparking whats wrong it that the switch that turns on the spark when the knob is turned is bad and that is what needs to be replaced. GE only makes that switch available in a complete assembly with all 5 switches and the wiring for it. It's not to bad to replace that actually,what ya would need to do to replace that switch harness asm. ya need to take off the main top which can be done by removing the burner grates and caps from the burners,then is the outer center of each burner will be 2 screws remove those screws from all burners then the all 5 knobs and the top will lift off,that switch harness has keyed plugs and will only fit in one way so its not to bad to replace it. The part number for that switch/wire harness asm. is WB18T10381 it could be purchased at your local appliance parts store or online at; searspartsdirect.com apdepot.com partselect.com apwagner.com repairclinic.com Thank you for using Fixya.Com,if you should require further assistance please reply and i will be happy to help, GENE
Interesting, I'm looking for a solution to a similar issue. Our new (7 month old) 30'' Wolf Range has this issue. When both front burners are light, the back burner's electronic starter begins to click, but only when you put a pan on the front left burner. I believe the iron/steel in the pan is causing a magnetic field thats starting the rear burner to go off.. just don't know.. will report back after the repair person comes.
In the US, there is a parts distributor with locations all over the country. Their number is 1-800-482-6022. They have four of your burner knobs (part number 74001253) in stock in the Fresno, California warehouse. The cost per knob is $9.27 US. I can't say how much the shipping would be, but they use UPS and FED EX.
Good luck....and good day.
You need the switch for that burner. The contacts inside are stuck together. You will need to pull the unit and separate the glass from the lower body to access it. To get the right switch you need full model and serial number located on a plate at the bottom of the unit.
Your ability to perform this is dependent on how mechanical you are. The Whole unit must be removed from the counter opening and the base unscrewed from the glass, remove knobs before disassembling. For someone mechanical this is not difficult. De-energize whole unit first.
Once the two pieces are separated the remainder is mechanically easier. Disassemble the box on right containing the switches and replace the correct one. Reverse the process for reassembly. Good Luck
Sounds like a short in that particular burner circuit. Usually when the light stays on even after cool down the heat sensor is bad. This is inside the burner. If your getting white smoke the burner switch could also be shorted out.
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