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Re: fix main bearing
On every front-loading washing machine which I've replaced the main bearing on, it's normally removed and refitted using a suitable sized drift and a club hammer. Most of the time i find a trusty one foot length of scaffold tube which is in my toolbox does the trick.
If the washing machine has a polypropylene outer drum rather than a steel one then it's rare that the drum doesn't break whilst attempting the repair. On these types I've usually fitted a used drum from a scrapped machine, or more frequently just replaced the entire machine with another used machine which has been thrown away with a silly little problem like a blocked or broken pump.
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could be seized piston/rings seized big/ main bearings seized gear input shaft bearings looks like it is a pull down and rebuild remove the plug first to see if there is coolant on top of the piston and causing a hydraulic lock--if water cooled engine
there are several reasons
seized big end/main bearings
dropped valve or insert
fuel/ water on top of a piston on compression stroke --remove the plugs
pistons jammed in cylinders from overheat
broken flexi plate in bell housing
failed torque converter
broken timing belt/chain
external unit ( power steering pump,ac compressor ) locked on drive belt
as you have not bothered to give any previous warnings before it locked up ,then take your pick
Remove the oil pan. Remove the rear main bearing cap. Loosen the other main bearing caps. Using a special tool that resembles a chinese finger lock pull out the top part of the seal. It's a "rope" seal. Install the new seal in the block and the cap. Replace rear cap, torque all the main bearing caps to spec. Reinstall the pan. This job is pretty big for a novice - I don't recommend you try unless you have unlimited patience.
engine should be removed ,but can be done in frame.pan must be removed,loosen all main caps, remove one a a time .upper bearing half can be popped out with a small punch pushing against the bearing half,from the opposite side from the lock tab. oil crank side surface,and reinstall.rods the same way, crank the engine to get them to bottom. good luck
see the following steps, and fix it. God bless you
a flat screwdriver to unseat the tabs that hold the front top cover
in place. This will expose the flywheel and pedal arm connection
points. Rotate the flywheel by hand and determine whether lubrication
will accomplish the repairs. If the bearings are exposed, use a
grease gun with an extension nozzle and lubricate both bearings with
lithium grease. If the bearings are damaged or sealed, proceed to the
the front and side covers on the main frame. Hold the flywheel with
one hand and use a box wrench to loosen the bolts that secure the
pedal arms at each side of the flywheel. Pull the arms away from the
flywheel and remove the bearings from each side.
the bearings as before. Lubricate exposed bearings with lithium
grease and reinstall them. Sealed bearings must be replaced. Reattach
the pedal arms to the flywheel. Replace the main frame covers and
front top cover to complete the repairs.
thats a good un? ok standard bearings are a standard size,,,over size bearings are smaller in the center to make up for the metal that has been removed from when the bearing was re-fased
ie: ground down to smooth it off so its flat again,,,,,now you can fit oversized bearings on a standerd bearing becouse they would be far to tight and would lock the bearing up,,,,so you need to re-grind the bearing serfice or fit standerd bearings back in,,,only if the shaft is a good one?
i hope this has help you out
The rear axle bearing? I'm going to presume that's the bearing you're talking about and not the rear main bearing, so please take that into consideration if you would
You're going to have to jack up the rear of the van, remove the tire and drum. Then you have to place a drain pan under the rear differential and remove the cover. After the cover is removed spin the rear axle (the one with the tire off) to locate the pin in the very center of the differential. On the right side you will see an 8mm (5/16) bolt head.
When you remove the locking bolt (the 8mm) and slide the pin out DO NOT SPIN THE AXLE WITHOUT THE CENTER PIN IN PLACE. Push in on the axle with the bearing to be replaced and a "C" clip will fall out of the differential. SLIDE THE CENTER PIN BACK IN and screw in the locking bolt a few turns. Once the "C" clip slips out, you can pull the axle out. If you don't have a bearing puller, it's best to rent one. Insert the bearing puller and pop the bearing out.
once the pin is out, push the axle in towards the middle of the car, the clips may now come out, even fall out maybe. remove the clip, then pull the axle out. be sure that the axle bearing surface is good, any pitting or grooves and the axle and bearing and seal will need replacement.