Sony bravia kdl 40m4000

SOURCE: Sony BRAVIA KDL-40W4000

Hi there,

I've been looking into this myself as I've also recently purchased the KDL-40W4000. I was watching a murky old film and was getting a bit of sludgy ghosting but found that by reducing the contrast to 25, setting the backlight on low, colour on neutral and the brightness about 40-60 (and taking ALL advanced noise functions off), this reduced the ghosting considerably.

BUT, this is quite a cool and dark image. If you watch standard TV and films mainly, a variation of the Cinema setting is probably the best overall setting i.e.

backlight: min
contrast: 79
brightness: 50
colour: 53
colour temp: Warm 2 (although Warm 1 is less yellow and still fine)
sharpness: min
noise reduction: off
mpeg nr: off
contrast enhancer: off
colour space: standard

Ben, UK

SOURCE: Sony Bravia - picture don't fit the screen

I have a Scientific Atlanta cable box w/ Time Warner. I followed the instructions below for the cable box. Somehow it reset my picture and I can now read the ticker at the bottom of the screen and the different picture sizes seem to work properly. Good Luck.
http://newteevee.com/2007/12/15/six-steps-to-get-more-hd-from-your-scientific-atlanta-set-top-box/

SOURCE: sony bravia kdl 32l4000 - color bars running vertically on screen

In most cases is the screen is covered with vertical lines all the way accross the screen then the T-Con module is at fault. The t-con board is replaceable without having to replace the entire LCD panel which would usually make it cheaper than replacing the TV. The part number I come up with is 1-857-213-11. Please take a moment to rate my answer. Thanks...

SOURCE: 2 years old Sony Bravia KDL-52W3000 flat screen- I

The caps (capacitors) in the powerboard are going out. This is a very common problem in all class and price ranges of modern lcd and plasma tv's/ monitor's. I don't know if this problem has been like this for awhile or it just started, but either way, if the tv takes an abnormal amount of time to "warm" up then it most likely will go out all the way sometime in the (near) future. If you have a tiny bit of will and knowledge ypou can open the unit and get to the print board. Examine this for "popped" capacitors, they will have a buldging top instead of a flat one. Im gonna try to include a pic of them here, if i can get it this time, I've tried bfore lol. But you can google image a "popped" or "bad" capacitor and you would be able, with ease, to diagnose if you have any of these. Usually only one or two. Radioshack sells capacitors (couple anyway) for $1.59 each. MAKE SURE the replacement is of the SAME voltage or HIGHER, or you will be right back replacing those 2. Every capacitor has a negative pole marked with an (-) on the side of the capacitor(by one of the "legs", always puit the negative (-) "leg" of the new capacitor in the same hole in the printboard as where the previous negative (-) "leg" of the capacitor was ( a capacitor with the negative and positive "legs" put in backwards will result in the new piece "popping" as sson as you turn it on!!) make sure the "uf" rating (for example the most common popped capacitor is the 1000 uf) is the same as the one you are replacing. I needed 1000 uf, 105 c and 26v (volt) ratings for the 1 capacitor I needed to replace to fix my LG 19" lcd panel monitor I found by the trash that the light came on off, but it didn't come on. I replaced that capacitor with ; 1000uf, 85 c and 36 v (volts0...It works fine eventhough the volts and the temperature rating (36v and 85c) was not the same as the (26v(volt) and 105c ) capacitor I removed !! Further, I've replaced capacitors that had the celcius rating of 105 with the only ones Radioshack had, namely 85 c(celsius) they have been working great, but I'm not sure about any effect, nor have I heard or read (yet?) about that making an urgent difference. Many threads that I've read people have done the same, so we should be ok (my stuff has been running good for a while longer then most brand new ones!.............(all these ratings ; 'uf ' and 'c' etc are on the side of the capacitor you are replacing and on the side of the ones you are replacing them with)...For all this all you need is the cheapest solder gun u can find (I bought one for $7.99 at Radioshack), a camera (to take pictures as you go to remember how to reassemble the unit) and, once you have your materials, 20 minutes to replace 2 or 3 capacitors and you are good to go...Most monitors and tvs (lcd/plasma) I've seen you have to lay flat on the ground/bed/blanket etc, to work on (screen side down). Usually there are 2 or 3 screws (or a few more) to remove, then you will have to carefully (its comes off easily most times)insert a flat screwdriver inbetween the casing and gently pry it up as you go around the whole frame. Sometimes you have to remove the little washer arouind the cable input orso, just be gentle and you cant go wrong. Once insidet here will be a box with wires running to the sides etc...unplug, gently, these wires and open the box. Inside you will find 2 or 3 circuitboards, check them all for "popped" capacitors, replace, reassemble and plug it in....Have fun becoming an overnight tv mechanic lol! ..Here is a picture of what you are looking for inside the tv...I hope this helped, if it did (or not)please rate, thank you!

SOURCE: Bravia KDL-46VL130 TV: Our Sony KDL-46VL130 picture is streaking and some...

That symptom may cause by the main board or t-con board, I suggest you do software up grade first.