Condenser fan turns on then shuts off within a couple of minutes, motor housing becomes very hot in that short time. There is no humming and recently had my start capacitor replaced. Is motor replacement the next step?
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You are on the right track. The motor bearings are tight if you can get some oil into the bearings and get the fan to spin Ok then you may not have to replace the motor. With the blade not spinning free the motor is over heating and shutting off on thermal overload. The capacitor may be weak but that won't help with the bearing being tight. The only other answer is to replace the motor and capacitor. if you can't get the blade to spin freely.
THE OUTSIDE FAN MOTOR MIGHT NOT BE WORKING CAUSING THE COMPRESSOR TO GET HOT AND TRIP THE INTERNAL OVERLOAD IN THE COMPRESSOR - IF THE UNIT IS LOW IN FREON SAME RESULTS - WHEN UNIT IS FIRST TURNED ON DOES IT BLOW COLD AIR OR DOES THE AIR NOR FEEL COOL - JUST COOL AIR COULD BE LOW FREON - COLD THEN WARMS UP IS FAN PROBLEM
Hello, That condenser fan motor needs to be replaced. You and doing the right thing as far as using a seperate fan to keep compressor cool,buy replacing the fan the compressor will run cooler and click off by being too hot as you have heard/seen.
Find your model number and call your local appliance parts store and see if they have a CONDERSER FAN MOTOR in stock
Is the condenser fan (outside) turning? You mention that it's hot but don't say if it's turning or not.
These fan motors normally run pretty hot, but not so much that they shut down due to internal thermal overload protectors.
Both the compressor and the fan have termperature overload protectors to keep them from burning out the motor in the event of an overheated condition. The condenser fan must be running or high freon pressure will put an excessive load on the compressor and it will 'kick out' the high-temp overload protector.
Turn off the unit by pulling the outside disconnect (in a small box near the outside compressor unit) or flip the AC breakers in the breaker box. Wait about 30 minutes for the unit to cool off and turn it back on. If the compressor and fan both run for awhile then kick back off, or the fan motor seems to be working under excessive strain, you've probably got a bad motor start condenser (inside the unit) that little round can that is connected through the fan motor wiring. If it's swollen or leaking, it's almost surely defective and even if it's not, excessive load on the motor is a classic sign of a bad start condenser.
You can usually find these at electrical supply stores, well-stocked hardware stores, or most certainly at an HVAC parts house. Be sure to replace the old one with one of the EXACT same value (in voltage and Microfarads (mF) capacity. The shape may be a little different, but as long as the electrical characteristics are the same and is rated at the same or higher voltage than the original, it will work.
Connect the new condenser, mount it to the frame, and restart the unit. This should take care of the problem.
I am presuming you are talking about low voltage at the motor. The fan and condenser use capacitor assist to start them. They can be damaged by a really bad lightning storm or they can just go bad. Difficult to determine why. If you are seeing a low voltage at the motor the capacitor has most probably failed. Check for a device that looks like a thin tin can with wires on top. Get the numbers off the side and you can find a replacement.
REMOVE ALL POWER before playing with the capacitors, they store energy and can kill!!
There may be 2 caps, one for the condenser, and one for the fan. If the condenser runs for a couple of minutes and then shuts down it is probably just the fan. Easy way to check is if the coils get really hot. If it short cycles there could be a different problem. But I would venture to say it is probably the cap for the fan.
There are 2 or 3 things that would cause this. first make sure the condenser coils are not plugged with dust (vacumn or blow them out) next check to make sure the fan that cools these coils is running, (this is the most likely problem). if both of these check out ok then you would need to check to make sure your interior lights ar going off when the doors are closed as these will add extra heat and cause the center rails to run hot. last and most uncommon would be a freon system problem.
fyi there is a hot gas freon line that runs in between the doors to prevent exterior sweating. when poor or no air flow problems for the condenser coil exist it causes this area to become hotter. One more thing. if you do determine that the condenser fan motor is bad you can put a normal house fan blowing on to the coil to help cool this area down until you can get the unit repaired. If you need any further assistance leave me a comment here and I'll gladly get back to you. Thanks Peyton