I don't know where you have your washing machine but can't you just put the drain hose in the tub, or toilet to see if it drains? if either of those aren't close enough to dump discharge water into from your spin cycle, you may be able to add a short piece of clear tubing at the end of the existing hose using whatever connector you need to use, then put the hose back into your drain. This way you should be able to see if the pump is working. You can usually hear/feel water being discharged out of the discharge hose but I don't know what your situation is.
SOURCE: Won't pump out water at the end of wash or rinse cycle.
I don't know this model at all, but hada similar set of syptoms on an electrolux .....
Just a thought, but have you checked the pump chanber is not impeded by a stray hairgrip, or bit of wire?
The fact it doesn't pump when it should, but allows water to pass when the centrifugal force of a spin cycle builds up, would indicate that maybe its the pump that either has a jammed impeller, or a blown motor (or fuse).
SOURCE: water pump works but spin cycle dosent
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
The first thing to check is the Motor Coupler. See the following for how to access, check and replace it if necessary.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135&osCsid=1763fb1b591f8bfa857781a38daa194b
If the Motor Coupler is OK and If it will drain but won't spin the problem is likely in the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".
See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load direct drive washers.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/
$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2"
socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
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