My C-Class motorhome is parked in my driveway, with no car or engines running around. The alarm sets off here and then and I cannot figure out what triggers it! I must say that it is very damp outside (fog in the morning and drizzle during the day. Could it be the problem? Solution, please.
An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.
Re: Same alarm problem setting offf
As a camper myself, I know that one of the last thing we check is our Carbon Monoxide detectors in our unit. I had an old Class C motorhome with a CO detector that failed to alert me, and my kids got to the point of being nauseous. We were lucky to discover the problem.
A Carbon Monoxide Detector needs to be changed after 5 years because the sensor is designed only to last this long. If your unit needs to be changed, you can shop online on my website http://carbonmonoxidedetectoralarms.com/
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
As with most cars and trucks, if the shifter won't move out of park, one possible cause is a faulty brake switch or shift lock solenoid.
If the RV is on flat ground and the park pawl is not under heavy load, you may be able to shift out of park by unlocking the steering wheel but not turning the key to the on position. Make sure the parking brake is set before you try it.
Does that heater have a pilot light or is it electric start? Look at the ignitor while turning it on and see if it sparks.If it doesn't , it's probably bad. If it does but doesn't light, the ignitor isn't opening up to allow enough gas to get through to ignite.
Some chassis had a central parking brake that was a drum
inline with the driveshaft. This brake was actuated by use of a cable to the drum. Some units had the cable running to close the the exhaust manifold which caused the shield
around the cable to melt thus locking the cable in the last
position before the plastic set up after cooling. Only way to
correct was to replace this entire cable and rout the new one far enough away from the exhaust heat to prevent
occuring again. You did not mention what kind of parking
system you had. Parking brakes are all mechanical. Even air brakes. They are held open with air and lock up when
air is removed.
Don't know what the problem is here...nothing stated. 1400 for a fuel pump repair seems a bit high but I don't know what the part cost is. I am just throwing out a ball park here (without ever having worked on the particular vehicle) but i would say this would be estimated at about a 4 hour job. Shop rate probably 90 to 120 so on the high end for labor 480. Now check on the price of the fuel pump. Check online sources such as Carquest, Napa or ORielly.
I would say that the battery is low from sitting. Some alarm systems have a low voltage indicator that sets off the alarm. The flashing lights and clicking (alarm module) under the dash are indicative of just such a problem. Have the battery charged and consider disconnecting it or you can purchase a solar charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter to keep the battery charged (usually under $30 @ Lowes). However if you remove the battery is may you to lose radio codes etc... I believe the solar charger is the best option at this point. Have someone give it a boost with jumper cables or a charger to stop the flashing and clicking in the interim. Thanks for using Fixya and please post a comment and rate my assistance.
RS4 performance chip is just a $0.50 resistor that fools your IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor. All it will do is cause your engine to run leaner or richer depending on what the resistor rating is on the resistor. You can get the same result by disconnecting the wire leads to your IAT, the resistor only keeps your check engine light from coming on. The higher resistor rating, the leaner the engine will run and the lower the resistance will cause your engine to run richer. But the program to your engine PCM has set perimeters which takes readings from your MAF, MAP, Engine Temperature, and O2 sensors to keep your engine running at 14.7:1 air fuel ratio, so the RS4 Performance chip only works during start up on a open loop with the engine still cold and under 400 RPM. It IAT is only there to determine the amount of fuel needed to start the engine during cold starts. If you are interested in a true performance and economy for the amount of fuel used. Dyno tune your PCM for the best performance your F250 can provide.http://www.pcmforless.com/ is one of the best tuners out in the market that is worth investing. Thank you for using fixya, and good luck
My Mercedes C-Class 1996 won't start up, the alarm is confused it thinks it's locked, every time i unlock it, the red light( locked) and green light(unlocked) flash at the same time constantly, if I open the car and try turn on the engine, the alarm starts blaring, I've turned it on before and drove it around but when i came to park it up it did not turn on again because of that problem.( The car hasn't been touched or used for a year before i got it going again)
factory alarm? my personal truck has the same issue but in my case when i set the alarm after a while it will go off. what i found on mine is my door sags because the bushing in the hinges are worn and with it sagging the swich in the door that controls the door ajar light is not setting where it should so sometimes it would send a signal that the door is open which sets off the alarm idk this may be the same with yours.