Have a monarch type a 1/2 hp model be-e50 effluent pump which runs constantly and will not **** off what are some of the reasons ?

You most likely have one of two things going on here, the steering gear is defective or the power steering pump is defective (I assume the fluid is full). If the steering gear is the problem it may only be hard to turn in one direction, if the PS pump is the problem then it is always hard to turn no matter which way the car is turned. In the future please include the make, model, year and engine type of the vehicle so I can give you an answer that is directly related to your vehicle..

#1 reason is running the car low on fuel, like 1/4 tank or lower, the next is running it out of gas completely. The reason for this causing failure is simple, the fuel pump is cooled and lubricated by the fuel it pumps and sits in.

Fuel Pressure regulator ..maybe

Turn the Key to the 'ON' position, the fuel pump should run for about 1 second. listen for it. Do this a few times without trying to start the car. This should pressurize the system. now try starting the car. There may be air in the system from changing the filter.

Year/make/model??? Sounds as if the fuel pump is running constantly. Possible fuel pump relay shorted causing pump to run continuosly

The clicking noise at the relay indicates that the relay is bad, or that the wires to the relay and/or connector is bad.

A relay is an electronically activated switch. Inside is a coil. When 12v+ is applied to one end of the coil, and a ground is applied to the other end, the coil gets charged, creating a magnetic field. This magnetic field literally moves a metal lever from position A to position B. One end of the lever is attached to constant battery power. When coil not energized, the lever rests in postion A (which in the case of the fuel pump relay is feeding the battery power to an unused terminal). When the coil is activated, the lever moves to position B (which in this case is a terminal connected to your fuel pump wire). Thus, when the relay is activated, 12v+ is being directed from the battery to the fuel pump.

This fast clicking indicates that the relay coil is not getting a constant voltage or ground supplied to it, thus the lever is moving back and forth between position A and position B, either there is a wiring issue, a connector issue, or an internal issue with the relay.
The relay has 4 wires, black, grey, orange, green with white stripe.
black = ground
orange = battery = 12v+ always
grey = wire out to fuel pump (on some cars this wire is tan with white stripe)
green/white = signal wire from ECM

When key is turned ON, the ECM sends 12v+ out on the green/white wire to the relay for about 2 seconds - this activates the relay coil for 2 seconds, thus running the pump for 2 seconds (priming). When the vehicle is started, the ECM sees a constant ignition signal from the ignition module, and sends a constant 12v+ out on the green/white wire, thus activating the relay coil constantly, and thus running the pump constantly.
When car shut off, no more constant ignition signal, thus ECM stops sending the 12v+ out on the green/white wire.
So, you can kind of test your connector ...
1) remove connector from relay
2) jumper a wire from the slot for the orange wire to the slot for the grey wire - fuel pump should run - wiggle wires to verify at connector
3) probe black wire slot with ohm meter - make sure black wire has constant ground - wiggle wires at connector
test relay ...
1) remove relay from connector
2) rig a ground wire to the tab that had the black wire when in connector
3) apply 12v+ to the tab that had the green/white wire - relay should click once and do this every time you apply the 12v+

That should help you track it down to either a connector problem, a wiring problem, or a relay problem.

Test the relay base, if it has everything it is suppose to and the circuit still does not operate then the relay is the reasonable suspect. The base should have a constant 12v power supply, this can be tested easy enough with a test light or multimeter set to DCV. one of the other pins should get a 12v signal when the key is switched to the "on" position. another of the pins should have continuity to ground, and the last pin should go to the pump itself. If you put a jumper wire from the pin with constant 12v signal to the one that goes to the pump the pump should run. If the pump runs and you have all of the correct signals at the relay base, then the relay would be the culprit. If the pump does not run when the pins are jumped out then the pump would be the problem.

i have a 95 honda civic and it will crank but not start, ive heard they have a common fuel pump relay problem so i bought a new 1 and also a new fuel pump but yet still the car will not start. we i turn the key the fuel pump does not engage and am stumped. ive checked all the fuses but there all good. any ideas please help . thanks

The fuel pump is supposed to run constantly when the engine is running. It is pumping fuel to the engine which is in constant need of fuel. It is starting when the ignition is turned on and then shuts down after a few seconds if you do not start the engine. This is exactly what it is supposed to do. You have no problem except for the pump being noisy. On a car that is 22 years old, I would suspect the fuel pump is failing and the noise you hear is it's death nil. Change the fuel filter and if the noise continues be prepared to have the pump replaced. It may fail suddenly or it may become hard to start. If you have never had it replaced just go ahead and do so, to prevent being stranded and a towing fee when it does fail.

hello. perhaps I can assist you.

Perform this test:

Fuel pump test:

1. Get yourself a helper.

2. remove the gas cap.

3. have one person listen in the gas tank at the gas cap opening.

4. have the other person turn the ignition switch to the ON position ONLY so as the dash lights come on. Do NOT attempt to start the engine.

5. As soon as the ignition key is turned to the ON position, The person at the gas tank should hear the fuel pump run for TWO SECONDS and then it should STOP.

6. Does it ?.


If you do NOT hear it run, in most cases the fault is the fuel pump relay or the fuel pump..


As soon as you turn ON the ignition switch to start the engine a 2 second ONLY battery voltage signal is sent from the computer to the fuel pump relay and from the relay back to the fuel pump in the fuel tank. This runs the fuel pump for ONLY 2 seconds of which pressurizes the fuel system in preparation to start the engine.

Once the engine starts, The computer BYPASSES the fuel pump relay and sends constant contionous battery voltage from the computer to the oil pressure switch of which is now CLOSED because the oil pressure is UP because the engine is running. Therefore the battery voltage flows thru the oil pressure switch back to the fuel pump to run the fuel pump constantly until you turn OFF the engine.