- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
For a 5.4L V8 Flex...canister Purge Valve--centered right behind the throttle body. Should see a hose with a quick disconnect and an electrical connector on one side (driver's). Opposite (passenger) side has another 6-8 inch hose that runs from the valve to the engine with a quick disconnect on the engine side. The valve itselve is about 2-3" long, black cylinder (google Motorcraft CX2447 for picture)! Very easy to replace yourself (5 min job). Remove the electrical connector (push in on rear side and pull), remove the two quick connects by squeezing the gray prongs and pushing the connector outward. Hose should slide right off. Pull valve off of bracket (there is a rubber piece that holds it on--it will slide off of the metal bracket, but have to wiggle it loose), replace part, reconnect hoses/elect and you're done. Just make sure the hoses are fully seated.
The actual canister is a black box on the inside of the frame beneath the driver side (have to get under the truck pretty far to see it). It has about 3 hoses running to it from the fuel tank. On side facing the front of the vehicle, you'll see a hose that runs up through the firewall to the purge valve.
it's mounted above where your spare tire is on some of the other motors its above your spare tire
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Drain the fuel tank.
Remove or disconnect the following:
When removing the fuel sender from the tank, the reservoir bucket is full of fuel. Use caution in containing the fuel.
Note the direction the strainer is pointing.
Negative battery cableSpare tire and jackTrunk liningFuel sender access panelSender and quick connect fittings from the senderElectrical connector from the sender and position harness and hoses aside
Sender retaining ringSender and take note of its positionFuel sender O-ring and discard it
Strainer from the pump by pulling it down and twistingPump electrical wires and hosesPump assembly out of the rubber connectors
Transfer any insulators and grommets from the old pump to the new one.
Connect the pump to the fuel hose and tilt the bottom of the pump into the mounting bracket.
Install or connect the following:
New strainer on the pump so it points in the same direction as noted during removalElectrical connectors and fuel lines to the pumpNew O-ring on top of the fuel tankFuel sender assembly into the tankLockringFuel line quick connectorsSender electrical connectorFuel sender access coverTrunk linerSpare tire and jack
Hello, You can try two things. Look at the underside of your hood on the passengers' side. Follow the wires from the blower motor to a connector that is about centered on the Firewall behind the engine and directly behind a heater hose.
The connector goes to the Blower fan ballast resistor. The connector just unplugs and there are 2 screws holding the part onto the car. Sometimes if you take a screwdriver handle and tap on the connector, the part will work again. If this does not fix it, then you need a new part.
When you get a new or used ballast resistor, make sure the engine is cold when you work on it. Put the good part where you can reach it with 1 hand. Undo the connector, 2 screws and let the part stay in place. Then undo the hose clamp at the back of the engine so you can move the hose out of the way to install the part.
Using 1 hand on the disconnected hose, swing it aside and hold it. Use your other free hand to remove the old part and install the new one into the opening. Then immediately reattach the hose to its fitting and secure. Because you did this on a cold engine, you should have only lost a minimum amout of antifreeze. Now you are ready to secure the new part and attach the connector.
The blower fan should work immediately when you turn on the Ignition provided the A/C controls are set to work. That is all there is do. Pour a little clean water over any spilled antifreeze. I hope you find my Solution very helpful.
Hello, Just follow the wire from the heater fan under the hood. Trace the power wire from the heater fan and it will join a connector midway on the Firewall. It will have 2 screws and 1 electric connector. Tap the connector with a screwdriver handle and see if the part starts working again.
If it does not, get a used or new blower resistor. Work on a cold engine and remove the screws and connector from the part. Temporarily plug in the new part to the connector and turn the Key to run with the fan ON. It should be blowing now. Turn off the switch and put the new part where you can reach it with 1 hand.
Undo a heater hose at the top rear of the motor going in front of the opening for the switch. With 1 hand remove the hose end, then switch parts with the new blower resistor with the other hand and slide the heater hose back on its fitting. Tighten the heater hose.
Then secure the new part into the Firewall and fasten its connector. You should have lost little Antifreeze by working on a cold engine as the hydraulic lock kept the fluid from running out.
This should be all you need to do except clean any spills away.
If this is worn out you can replace with the same type which is available on many spares parts shop any pneumatic spares. the hose is connected to the washer motor in the washer tank.
The hose can be pulled out and the new one pushed into the nozzle.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Sorry but this forum does not supply parts direct; it's just made up of ordinary guys and gals, probably at home, with experience of addressing problems and giving guidance for free on the web ;-0)
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make) washer spares' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can order. During the process you will be asked for the actual model number.
Alternately you could try telephone directories for spares suppliers but I would think the former would be more successful.