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Washer will not spin. Model number 110.20422 990

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  • fanofhuskers Jul 02, 2009

    Sorry for leaving out info. Machine is quiet, no black powder under and will not drain. removed two end plastis caps from console (Nothing else plastic) and nothing moves on a hinge.

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  • Expert
  • 232 Answers

When in spin is the machine completely dead or is it humming will it drain out water if quiet probly broken lidswitch humming could coupling to trans or motor. look on the floor under washer for black powder by motor. unplug washer to get inside pull on top of console curved plastic trims at top till they pop off swing console up its hinged then unplug three wire plug going in top, pry out gold color clips one on each side with a flat screwdriver

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore washer 110 20912 990 will not spin or empty

sounds like perhaps you dissconnected the door latch assy,and never reconnected??? hte unit will not spin/drain with the door latch not making contact

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

Maytag317
  • 1136 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore washer wont drain or spin

Hi, Remove the end caps on the control panel. There is 2 screws in the front corners that need to be removed and the control panel will lift up. Locate the lid switch connection disconnect it. Use an insolated wire and jump the two brown wires and see if the washer will spin. The green wire is groun (Do not use that wire)
I hope this helps you.

Vic

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

Jahn27
  • 1554 Answers

SOURCE: Model # 110 20702 990

This is a direct drive washing machine and if it fills and drains but doesn't agitate and spin, the problem is a broken motor coupler as indicated by the gear-like sound sliding by each other which means the motor is running. The machine drains because the drain pump is directly coupled with the rear spline of the motor. Replacing the motor coupler should solve the problem.

Disconnect power then release the console from the top of the cabinet. Pull or pry off the end caps then remove the screw that secures the console to the cabinet top. Once the screws are removed, pull forward and up on the console and lay it back on the hinges.

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Disconnect the lid switch harness connector by pressing on the tab located in the middle and pulling it up.
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The cabinet is attached to the rear of the washer by two brass-colored retaining clips. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the turned-up edge of the clip, located on both sides, and then pry back to release the clip from the slot in the cabinet.
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Open and hold the lid while grabbing the cabinet front opening then tilt the top of the cabinet toward you by pulling the cabinet away from the base. This releases the front and back slots of the cabinet from the tabs in the front and back of the base.
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With the cabinet removed, pry the clips securing the pump to the motor off and remove the pump.
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Disconnect the motor harness then remove the screw securing the bottom clip holding the motor and remove the clip. Hold the motor from the bottom while loosening the screw securing the top clip holding the motor. Remove the clip then pull the motor out of the washer.
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Remove the broken coupler parts from the transmission and the motor shaft then tap the new coupler parts in place or until the splines are even with the edge of the coupler.
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Remove the motor mounting plate to remove the coupler part in the transmission side more easily.
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Once the coupler parts are properly installed, put the rubber grommet into the coupler in the motor then line up the remaining slots on the grommet with the coupler prongs in the transmission and put them together.

Secure the motor with the clips and the clips with the screws then reconnect the motor wiring harness to the motor terminals and reinstall the pump in reverse order of the removal steps.

Bring the cabinet to the front of the washer then slide the front bottom rail of the cabinet under the rail at the base of the machine then lay down the cabinet into position. Make sure the slots in the cabinet sit into the tabs at the base of machine.

Reconnect the lid switch harness then push the retaining clips back down into position to secure the cabinet to the rear of the machine. Reinstall and secure the console to complete the repair.

Posted on Jan 08, 2011

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: My kenmore top load washer will not spin. It

Try it in all the timer cycles. If it still does it then your transmission might need to be inspected. It is a simple design. Remove the agitator and then yank out the tranny. Remove the clutch and transmission cover. Inspect the main drive gear and the spin pawl beneath it.The main drive gear show in this 30 sec video is plastic (click on the link). The new gear comes with a matching pinion for around 75 bucks. More HERE

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Posted on Apr 06, 2011

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore washing machine 80 Series 110 20802 990 Will not agitate or spin"

You need to replace the Kenmore Washer Lid Switch. I had the same problem so being lazy I would just push down on the washer's lid and it would push the lid switch further down. making the water drain. after a while I just replaced the lid switch.

Posted on Jun 17, 2011

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If the washer is making a loud noise the tub bearing might be worn out, this is a common problem. The bearing can be replaced. On some models the bearing is part of the outer tub and the outer tub will need to be replaced.


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If the washer is making a loud noise the tub seal and bearing kit may need to be replaced. This is a common problem. sometimes the tub seal and bearing are part of the outer tub and the outer tub would then need to be replaced.


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If the washer is making a loud noise the rear drum with bearing might need to be replace. On this washer the bearing is not sold separately, the entire rear drum will have to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. However, the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine.


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Bearing

If the washer is making a loud noise the bearing might be worn out. As bearings wear out from friction they gradually get worse and worse until they fail. In the meantime they get louder. If the noise primarily happens during the spin cycle the bearing is likely the problem.


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Drive Pulley

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.


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Pulley

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley may be worn out. If the drive pulley is loose or wobbling it will need to be replaced


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U-Joint Kit

If the washer is making a loud noise the U-Joint may have failed. This is the primary drive mechanism for the agitation motion in this washer. Although this is not a very difficult repair for a DIY'er with some experience, the part is expensive and so it may be worth considering a new washer.


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Motor Coupling

If the washer is making a loud noise the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission.


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Clutch

If the washer is making a loud noise in the spin cycle, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may become loud during spin or just after the spin cycle finishes. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.


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Drive Belt

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive belt might be defective. Over time the drive belt will dry out and start cracking, eventually a piece of the belt can break off resulting in a loud noise whenever the motor is running.


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Transmission

If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced.


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Drive Motor

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If the washer is noisy or loud, particularly when the washer is filling, the water inlet valve is at fault and will need to be replaced.

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vaquero651

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