WHY DOES FOAM COVER KITCHEN FLOOR DURING WASH CYCLE?
SOURCE: washing machine
If water is leaking only during the times when it is supposed to be coming in , then the first places to check are at the hose connections and the hoses themselves. If it continues to leak after the water stops coming in , then you have to look at the drain connection and finally at the drum seal.
SOURCE: Whirlpool LHW0050PQ Front Loading Washer VERY NOISY during spin cycle
remove the top access panel 3 screws in top rear.
now look around and push on the drum from top
it has suspension shocks and springs like your car they should resist any movements.
look/wiggle the concrete balance blocks , no cracks or loose.
inside the tub are the arm solid /not loose.
run it with the top open what do you see/hear and where
look under the rubber flap in front did anything get under the tub
SOURCE: Water level issues on the Whirlpool washer.
It's overfilling
If your washer is overfilling, check these:
Water-inlet valve
Water-level switch
Water-inlet valve
A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.
Water-level switch
A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.
It's underfilling
The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.
The water temperature is incorrect
The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected.
If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.
SOURCE: My Whirlpool washer won't agitate or spin . But it does drain the water.
i also had the same problem, and it ended up being the coupler. It was not hard to replace, it cost me about 19.00. I didn't follow full recomende instructions. I tipped the washer backwards. Removed the drain pump and the motor itself. Then I removed the old coupling and placed the new one. The washer is working like new...
SOURCE: Will not spin on any rinse cycle
Hi, This washer does not have a belt. While the washer is agitating, if you lift the lid will it stop? Some models will agitate but not spin if the lid is up. It sounds to me like the lid switch might be going bad.
If you will get me a model #, I can look this up for you and give you a better idea.
Vic
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