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Re: Saw starts but blade wont turn
The chain must be free to move by hand--adjust as necessary. It could be that it is not being oiled properly. The chain sprocket (gear) is part of the clutch assembly and probably needs to be replaced if the chain is moving freely. The internal component of the clutch must be firmly attached to the engine crankshaft.
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I had a saw that did that and found my blade the chain runs in was bent. Another problem was the groove the chain goes in had a gouge that did not look like much but was just enough to throw the chain. Also check the drive sprocket and make sure it lines up with the groove in the blade the chain runs in.I replaced the blade and its ok now.
With the cove off you should be able to turn the sprocket easily, if not the brake is on, grab the hand guard and pull it fully back toward the rear of the saw until the brake clicks and the drum can be turned.
At the right side of the saw there is some bolt for the gear cover so unscew them to get access to the chain blade adjustment.You will see another bolt that is holding the chain with the chain plate and has a 2" groove.This groove let you move the chain along with the plate back and forth to make the adjustments. Thigh back the bolt once adjustments made and put back the cover.
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Hi there, I suspect that the chain brake has been activated. To release it, pull back the front guard (in front of the front handle) until it clicks. The chain should now be free to move. Happy sawing !
You obviously have taken the chain and bar off the saw. Start by meticulaously cleaning the oil port/s. At the front of the bar on the engine side, you should find a screw that moves the blade back and forth. Turn this screw counter-clockwise to allow placing chain loop on the bar and drive gear. Make sure that the sharp portion of the tooth of the chain is facing toward the engine of the saw, then the cogs will fit correctly. At the back end of the screw that you turned, is a nib that fits into the blade of the saw. Once you start assembling it,you can tighten the screw. Tighten the two bolts holding the blade and chain just enough so that you can still adjust the screw. Now, tighten that screw to a point where the chain can still be moved freely, but does not have a droop on the under side of the blade. Tighten,run the saw a bit, readjust if necassary and you are ready to go.
there is a broken gear in the gear reduction box. (explain:) the motor spins at a high rpm, the chain moves at a 1/4 or less rpm than the motor. a series of gears reduces the speed, which in turn creates torque, allowing the saw to have the force to keep cutting without stopping. One of the gears is broken or a keyway on a shaft is sheared...as far as i know, no electrical power tools are rebuildable. it's a safety thing (electric shock if reassembled wrong...they are priced for replacement...get a new one...
She is English? You can download a manual here: http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/MIPL/MIPL2003/MIPL2003_VP0303014.pdf There are 3 please ensure this is your saw. McCulloch International http://www.mcculloch.biz/
Using this IPL as a guide it appears reasonably simple.
I'd ensure it is unplugged, the chain brake disengaged, and try to move the chain by hand (gloves are a good idea). If you can't move the chain or the clutch cover seems stuck use the "Service Locater". If you can move the chain; remove the clutch cover, loosen the bar and remove the chain. I see no reason the saw cannot be operated for short periods without the clutch cover to aid in isolating the problem. She will oil your mate won't be happy if you oil the table. GL
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I think the pre-adjust settings are to turn jets in all the way and back out 1.5 turns each. then:
You will find a Low and High adjustment screw. At idle turn the screw in or clockwise until the rps starts to decrease. Then start turning it out till you hit max idle rpms. Turn screw back in a quarter to half turn and it should be idling smoothly. Be careful here and get someone to hold saw if necessary but hold in throttle to full speed and do the same with high adjustment screw. turn it in till rpm starts to drop then back it out until you get to max rpm and it won't go any higher then turn it back in a half a turn.