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Fire tripping exhaust fans


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Re: fire tripping exhaust fans - Air Conditioners

Check wiring properly

Posted on Mar 17, 2008

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Where can I get a manual for my Emerson Quiet Cool Room Air Conditioner? Not sure the model, but these #s were on outside of box: 10DC93 784040B OE21M N14421, is on a little sticker on the right...

Let see if I can help. The numbers don't come up so we'll just try your information.

Exhaust - should be closed when using for Air Conditioning
Energy savings turns the fan off with the compressor when set for Air Conditioning
Fan Only means just that (no Air Conditioning)

Fan speeds Quite same as low, Norm same as medium, Super same as High
Temp settings, what the thermostat senses before cycling compressor.

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I have a edgestar ap14000hs model, and when i turn it on the cooling mode, the ac compressor will kick on and blow cold air but the exhaust fan is not working like normal and it will shut off and trip the...

when you say 'exhaust fan' I have to assume you are talking about the condenser fan motor, in which case if it quits running - your refrigerant pressure will go 'way up' causing your amp draw to exceed the rating on your breaker - thus tripping the breaker.
The fan motor is not supposed to go off and in most cases if it's going off as you say - the motor is probably bad and needs to be replaced.
There is an outside chance that the 'fan capacitor' is bad - but this is not likely.
You can try replacing it - (it shouldn't cost more than $10-15 bucks, but I'm betting that the fan motor is bad.

Jun 05, 2011 | Air Conditioners

1 Answer

The Exhaust fan is not working, the unit still cools air then cuts out.

the unit is blowing cold air then tripping out, is it blowing hot air out the back? im sure you mean exhaust air as in hot air so the reason your unit is tripping out is that its overheating and the pressures in the rerigeration system are to high, so the safety trip cuts the unit off.

replace the motor

all the best

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Where to connect fire alarm to a combination starter with a hand/off/auto/switch

The fire alarm (usually an open contact, held closed during healthy operation) MUST go in series with the supply to the switch. This is normally incoming to a terminal which is linked between the hand and auto positions. If this is a full control panel, the fire alarm connection SHOULD be used to drop out the entire control circuit. Can you supply wiring diagram?

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1 Answer

Exhaust hose is too short need extention for it to

Hello. I can help you. For safety use a piece of galvanized duct pipe, of the correct diameter and clamps. These are common items available at most any hardware store.

Adding on with more plastic hose is a fire hazard.

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Raypak pool heater, error HL2

It is probably the pressure switch. Remove the hose from the inducer and **** in and then blow lightly several times. It is probably stuck in the either the open or closed position. If this isn't the problem, check your manual reset limit switchs to make sure they haven't tripped. Also, make sure your are getting power to the ignighter as well.

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possible dirty air filter low air flow causing high temp in fire box to trip limit switch or fan motor is bad hope this help let me know if you if this solved problem I may need more info

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1 Answer

We installed a honeywell DH90 whole house dehumidifer #B08167014 4026552. Unit is removing water but the supply side is warm air. We are wondering if this is normal or if this air should be cold.

I assume you mean the exhaust side of the dehumidifier, which goes into the supply duct of the furnace.

All dehumidifiers, whether small portable types, or whole house types, exhaust warm air (which is also dry air) as they remove humidity. The whole house unit which you have is a great solution to humidity control. Since the furnace fan should be running on a call for dehumidification, the mixing of the air in the building which is circulating and the exhaust (Dry) air from the dehumidifier negates, or dissipitates the heat in the air coming from the dehumidifier.

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1 Answer

Ruud achiever 90 plus wouldn't start

Thanks for the carefull description of the fault, The vent system is designed so that if a leak occurs fresh air from the living space will be pulled into the vent rather than dangerous combustion gases pushed out to insure this there is a carefully calibrated -pressure switch that will not allow the unit to fire unless a negative pressure on the vent is proven this can be prevented by many things, here are a a few :a sticky micro switch, a leaking hose from the vent to the pressure sensor, cold stacking in the flu(either a down draft or extremely cold air in vent that restricts warm combustion air from being pushed out), a problem with the power exhaust fan(debris has gotten in the housing preventing an easy start), i usually find the cause to either be a bad pressure sensor hose or debris in ths exhaust fan housing either blocking blade movement or obstructing the pressure sensor hose port.
To clear the fault turn of the breaker to the unit then restart the unit and fallow the sequence of operation to see where the fault occurs the fan should come on first then the exhaust blower should come on when negative pressure is achieved it start the lighting sequence if the lighting sequence doesn't start and you get the same fault take the neg pressure hose loose from the exhaust fan housing and start the sequence again while pulling a slight negative pressure on the pressure sensor with a hand held pump continue this process until you find the fault.

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