Husqvarna 51 from 1991 too much resistance to starting attempts
I have a Husqvarna 51 from 1991 that hasn't been run for a couple of years. When I pull the starter cord it will hardly budge. WhenI remove the spark plug the starter cord works fine.Any ideas on what will free it up so it'll start would be appreciated. Richard
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Re: Husqvarna 51 from 1991 too much resistance to...
It sounds like it's sorta gummed up from old gas residue. You could spray carb cleaner in the spark plug hole and into the carb while holding the throttle open and pull the cord several times and then follow that with penetrating oil to re-lubricate the engine. You're probably going to have problems with the carb also. I would have it rebuilt or, better yet, purchase a new one
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Low compression ( head gasket ) would account for bad restart.
The 'Hitting a brick' sounds like your carburetor Seat is not working properly and gas is getting past the carburetor ( hence the wet Primer) and getting down into the cylinder. That Hitting a Brick feel was "hydro Lock" TOO MUCH GAS IN THE CYLINDER. See if your Oil is way full and smells like gas. This is being seen everywhere since our idiot politicians created ETHANOL gas
Without the anti-rotation arm installed when you engaged the PTO the clutch spun and probably ripped out the wires connecting it to the harness. This can be repaired but is tricky. If you have a Husqvarna dealer close by, it will save you several hours of labor to have them correct the problem.
Measuring the windings resistance won't tell you if the motor is seized. Measure the current draw when it tries to start. If it has a capacitor start, check the capacitance is good. If it hasn't got a capacitor start, suspect the compressor is seized. You can try cooling it down for 24 hours and seeing if it will run again as the tolerances these days are extremely marginal. However, if it has seized once, it will probably do it again next time it gets too hot.
If it hasn't run in a couple years, I would use a "test light" and check for power at the plug-in for the fuel pump. If ther's no power I would run a wire from the battery straight to the fuel pump itself. If the pump doesn't turn on you will have to replace the pump. If this starts it. If this makes it work you could put a fuse in the wire and hook it under the hood to any wire that has power when you turn on the key.
If you are trying to get it running again after 2 years it might be a good idea to pick up a Haynes manual for the car. They're only about $20 and have a lot of useful help for the DIYer doing average repairs. Hope this helps.
Hi Sue and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. You have been quite lucky to get 7 years out of your battery. Given the age of the battery that is currently installed this is most likely your problem. You have voltage but very little amperage due to thinned out battery plates.... (
Let me know how it goes.
As per the manual
52. (00110100) Diverter Top-up Fault
More than 6 attempts have been made to top-up the water level in the bowl. This then
signifies the valve has not closed and is diverting to drain, or the top-up was not increasing
quickly enough, suggesting the valve has a blockage and is also draining.
Primary Source: Diverter valve.
Action: Remove the diverter valve and check for blockages as well as
checking that the hinge mechanism on the valve hasn’t broken.
Remove the hinge from the solenoid and check that the flap is free to
Secondary Source: Wax solenoid
Action: Check the resistance of the wax solenoid. Also look for corrosion
(greenish deposit) on the terminals. Resistance range will be
between 0.7kω and 2.5kω. Resistance will depend on ambient
temperature and when the valve was last actuated. Anything outside
of these resistances and the valve should be automatically replaced.