Question about Jenn-Air PRG4810 (NP) Gas Kitchen Range
Eric - Here's how I did it for converting from LP to Natural Gas, so reverse the instructions:
Hi - I just wanted to let you know that I was successful in converting the LP to the NP stove! Your advice sent me in the right direction, and I was able to engage a trained professional to make it happen.Here's what was necessary:
1) As noted, the parts above needed to be changed. That includes all six valves.
2) While the parts (orifices) are listed as being the same for the ovens and broiler, they are not. You'll need to order the same orifice for the two ovens and broiler that you do for the griddle.
3) Also, the regulator needs to be "flipped", from LP to Natural Gas - it's just a change of the "button" from one side to the other.
A few tricky items:1 - You'll likely need to replace BOTH of the dual burner holders - these are $70 each, but here's the trick - you can't actually change the holders, because the mounting of the LP and NP ones are different - you're just buying the holders for the TWO orifices that are in each. You'll take them out and install them into the existing holders.
2 - The orifice and orifice holders for the other four burners don't actually need to be changed - just the orifice, which can be done from the top fairly easily. The reason that they are sold with the orifice and the holder is that often the holder gets often used to get broken during the orifice change as a part of the replacement process (according to older Jen-Air techs) because the brass nut that you remove to do the orifice change seizes up and breaks when you remove the nut, so they were just sold together to make the technician's life easier.
3 - Why you need to change all six valves is a mystery to me (and to my trained professional tech) as there doesn't seem to be any reason to actually do this. If you don't get a true Jenn-Air valve, there may be an aberration in the front knob area that will cause it to be a quirky fit for the igniter switches. You might actually try NOT changing the valves first - as these were the most expensive part of the change-over. The cheapest valves were $190 each for the two with the switches a part of the valve, and about $80 each for the four that didn't have the switches. On the valves with the igniters a zip-tie actually works to snug it up to the valve.
3) You COULD do all this yourself, but I recommend you get a tech to do it. They are reasonably priced, and you'll want to discern what their hourly rate is, and pay it. It's worth it.
4) When you change the orifice for the broiler, you'll need a 1/2 open-ended box wrench that is at 90 degrees - I didn't have one, so just bent one to make it work in the limited space.
One thing I didn't know, as a lay-person, is that if you fire up an LP stove with Natural Gas (even after changing the regulator), if you have LP orifices in it, the gas that shows will be lit and very low. Conversely, if you have a natural gas stove that you use LP in, you'll get a "flame thrower", but in both cases, things won't blow up - they just need adjusting.If you don't change the broiler orifice, it may not light, and you'll smell gas - so be careful as errant gas smells are a bad thing!
As noted in the manual, if you're turning on the stove for the first time, when you run the ovens, for the first 45 minutes there will be a bad smell as there is an interior lining of some type of oil that needs to burn off.
So, to recap:You'll need the orifices for the four "normal burners" (which means buying the orifice in the holder and then taking out the orifice, the burner/holders for the two dual burners, just to get the orifices out of them (there are two in each), and when you order the new orifice for the griddle, instead of just ordering one, order four, one for the griddle, one for the broiler, and one each for the ovens. I would first swap JUST these parts, and see if the valves work, and if not, then swap out the valves too.
Don't let anyone say you can't do this - I did.
Posted on Aug 11, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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