My ligt for te engine and battry came on at the same time whe I was riding yesterday why?
Why?
Because there's probably a problem!
See what error codes you have:
Turn Ignition switch to OFF & the Run/Stop switch to Run.
Push odometer reset button in & hold.
Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" will then appear.
Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.
Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module refers to EFI models, Ignition Control Module is for Carbureted models)
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal / Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer
To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed, otherwise the word "none" will appear if there are no trouble codes. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
Record each code and reference the list below.
If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.
"No Rsp" will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.
Post any error codes you get for diagnosys.
SOURCE: Engine light and battery light
To check the charging system, first make sure you have a fully charged battery in the bike. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter). Set the meter's function selector switch to DC VOLTS, 50 volt range. Connect the red meter lead to the positive battery post and the black meter lead to the negative post. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. After a minute or so, your meter should read between 14.5 and 15.0 volts. If not, proceed to check the output voltage of the alternator.
Follow the two black wires from the voltage regulator down to the connection on the front of the engine. Unplug the connection and look down inside the engine side of the connector. You'll see two metal contacts. Make sure they are clean. This is where you're going to put your meter leads to read the output of the alternator. Since it is an AC voltage, it makes no difference which meter lead goes to which contact as long as they don't touch each other or the engine case. Put your meter's function switch to AC VOLTS, 50 volts or greater range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch a meter lead to each of the metal contacts. You should read at least 30 Volts AC. If not, your alternator stator is likely bad. If you do read the 30 volts or more at the alternator but not the 14.5 to 15.0 volts at the battery, your voltage regulator is likely the problem. Make sure your voltage regulator has a good ground against the frame.
Good Luck
Steve
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