Question about Roper RTW4300SQ Top Load Washer

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How do I take off the back and top of a top loading Roper washer?

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  • Master
  • 1,136 Answers

Hi, The whole cabinet has to come off. Here is how to do this:
Removing the cabinet. UNPLUG the washer. There are two screws holding the control panel to the cabinet. Most models the screw are in front but, some models have the screws in back. They are on each end. Now raise the control panel up and let it rest on the hinges. Unplug the lid switch harness and locate the clips on each side (bronze in color) and release them.
Now the cabinet will lift off the frame and you can set it aside.

I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.

Vic

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

duby1990
  • 367 Answers

SOURCE: changing a belt on roper top load washer

There is no belt on a roper. It called a drive coupler. its direct drive. Go to sears online and go to the parts section and put in your model number. Look at the diagrams and it will show you where it is located (easier to show you than to tell you.)

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

rylee_smith
  • 8619 Answers

SOURCE: Roper top loading washer not spinning or agitating

Hi

If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

  • The motor coupler may be broken. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.

  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

  • The clutch may be worn. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:

Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.

Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:

  • Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all.

  • The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.

If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.


Please do rate the solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

ginko
  • 19396 Answers

SOURCE: I have a top load Roper washer that won't spin.Any ideas?

That sounds like a bad drum bearing, check and eventually replace the drum bearing.

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: roper top loading washer RTW444OVQ leaking when

You will need to remove the washer exterior cabinet in order to sufficiently locate the source of your leak. The following steps explain how:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

The pump and drain hoses connections are located in the FRONT of the washer directly under the wash tub.

The water inlet and dispenser hoses are located along the back.

To get the cabinet back on the washer, follow these steps:

1, With the lid of the washer open, grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

Some other things to consider:


1. Check your fill hoses to ensure they are tight and not leaking. What can often appear as a washer problem, may be a loose hose.

2. With the washer case removed, check the are UNDER the wash tub. If the leak is coming from the center above the transmission, the tub seal may be leaking.

3. Inspect the wash tub for any cracks. If the tub is cracked and its not serious, you may be able to get by with some marine epoxy to reseal it. If the crack is significant, a new tub will be required.

4. Check the air dome on the lower right hand side of the wash tub. This is a small plastic air hose that runs from the wash tub all the way to the pressure switch. If this hose comes loose, the washer will start to leak as it fills. Simply reattach if it comes loose.

NOTE: It is important to remove the washer case in matters like this so that you can get a full view of everything to determine the source of the leak. Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. I hope this information is helpful.

Posted on Aug 21, 2009

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: My roper top loading washer stops completely after agitation

Bad lidswitch.

Posted on Jun 09, 2010

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