My yth2348 turns over very slow but has new battery and a new starter.what else could be the problem?

bad ignition switch

1. Check battery connections are clean and tight
2. Check the battery is FULLY charged, test with a car battery and jump leads to see if engine will start OK.
3. If it still won't start then you will need to check the starter solenoid with a voltmeter - this will also tell you if the ignition switch is working OK.
4. Still no luck? Then you need to check the starter motor.

check the battery cable bypass them with jumper cables that engine uses a lot of amprich to spin it over valve adjustment would change all at once but i set mine to .006 when the opposite valve set the other one

Car not starting or turning over indicates towards multiple possibilities. It can be issue with battery or weak battery. But if battery checks out ok, then it can be starter issue or faulty alternator or problem with low fuel pressure or no spark at spark plugs due to dirty spark plugs or faulty ignition coil or injectors getting cracked or dirty and needs to be cleaned.

To confirm the problem, the basic troubleshooting is required.

Click this link below and follow the troubleshooting:------

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/car-starting-issues.html

---------

This will help.
Thanks.

It could be a couple of different things. A couple of things that you can check yourself before having to take it to someone to look at it:

1. Open the hood and try turning the engine by spinning the round "cheese grater" looking part that is attached to the flywheel. - it probably won't turn.

2. Remove the spark plug(s) and try again. (Be careful, if the the cylinder is full of gas/oil it will come out as you spin it by hand.) - DO NOT use the electric start to try and turn it over! This sends spark to the plug wire and could ignite any fuel causing severe burns and/or other serious injuries.

-IF-

You were unable to spin the engine over by hand without the spark plug(s) in it, then you may be dealing with anything from a wedged starter gear to a seized engine. Fuel with ethanol added to it attacks the rubber/neoprene seals in carburetors and often times allows fuel to fill the crankcase and cylinder. If this has happened the above mentioned plan of action will let you know. As always, anytime the fuel mixes with the engine oil, you should change the oil to prevent the engine from locking up under normal operation.

I hope this gives you a little bit direction. =)

So your telling me that this car is a stick and you can't pop the clutch to start it ? Correct?
I'm gonna give you a list of thing to check, good luck.

a)Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Do a starter current draw test to verify this or remove the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
IN YOUR CASE I BELIEVE YOU NEED A NEW BATTERY UNLESS THIS ONE IS FAIRLY NEW.

Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, neutral safety switch ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables, ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charge the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery is more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit.Do not forget neutral safety switch its on your brake pedal and once depressed it closes the circuit to the relay so B+ can travel to it . Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Do a starter current draw test to verify this or remove the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. IN YOUR CASE YOU HAVE NEW PLUGS AND WIRES SO IT WILL BE EASIER TO CHECK FOR SPARK.If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair .THERE ARE FUEL PRESSURE AND VOLUME TESTS DONE TO VERIFY IF PUMP IS DEFECTIVE OR NOT. IF WITH THE TESTING PROCEDURES I'VE GIVEN YOUYOU CAN NOT DETERMINE WHETHER THE PUMP IS DEFECTIVE HAVE A REPAIR SHOP DO FURTHER TESTING ON THE PUMP. THESE TESTS ARE A LITTLE DANGEROUS and a real pain.
Good Luck

Remove the spark plugs and thn operate the starter motor and see if theres improvement in the rotation of it.(starter)
Best would be to check the starter motor and probabley may need an overhaul.
Not bad to check the positive and negative battery cables connections.Positive tothe solenoid and the negative to the frame.
Hope this helps!

What do you mean "take out 1 plug"? Spark plug's plug?
Spark plugs are renewed?
You should also check the gears/sprockets that connects the starting motor with the crankshaft if all of them can spin freely around their pin.

Remove spark plug and attempt to crank. If it turns faster (without compression) it may be valve adjustment. If it still turns over slowly with plug out check battery ground for tightness to mower body. If the ground is good check the starter by removing battery and atttaching jumper cables to pos and neg battery terminals first, then the pos jumper to starter terminal (where red wire attaches). Then touch the neg jumper to a good engine ground (I use shroud bolt). Be careful as this last connection will cause some arcing. If it still cranks slowly with the plug out, it is probably the starter.