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Amana Commercial Quality Dryer Model # LEA10AW is not heating.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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danromarris
  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: My dryer wont heat up...It just blows cold air....?????

It may be the thermal fuse but it could also be the heating element. The way to check is to open it up as described above and run the dryer. Watch the element and if it turns on then off again immediately then it is your thermal fuse. That is only about 15 dollars to fix and you can get a new fuse at any appliance repair shop. If the element doesn't ever come on then the element is burnt out and needs to be replaced. This is a little more expensive. I hope this was helpful and if you have any more questions feel free to ask me. Good luck.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: older amana electric dryer model #le8457w, wont heat up

You probably have a bad heating element. This is just about the easiest dryer to repair ever. Take the screws off the base and pull the front off. The heater is on the left on bottom and has all the fuses mounted on it. 2 screws hold the whole thing on. get it out and give it a look over for a bad coil. Not sure if it is bad? Take it to the appliance parts store and let them guys confirm if it has a problem. they will be glad to do so because they hate to have to give refunds on electrical stuff and they know the cust will get bent outta shape. Trust me. How do I know? Because my friend I used to own and operate an appliance parts store.

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Amana electric dryer model LEA30Aw will not heat

The heating element measures 10 Ohms at 68 degrees farenheit. Usually if the element is bad, it will measure infinity.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

  • 89 Answers

SOURCE: Amana Dryer model # LEA60AW. Dryer runs but no heat.

check the heating element and the high limit fuse

Posted on Jul 10, 2009

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: My amana commercial quality 7

Hi imasters582...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Posted on Aug 22, 2011

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1 Answer

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You need to unplug it and locate the high and low limit switches. These sense the heated airflow temperature. If it gets too hot, the high limit switch kicks off until it cools back down. The low limit switch is used most if the time to cycle the heating element on and off during a normal cycle. I suspect the low limit sensor switch is "open" (has gone bad) and needs replacing. When completely cool, both switches are supposed to be in the On or closed circuit position. You can test them with a ohm meter, looking for low resistance similar to when the two ohm meter test leads are touched together. Again, make SURE the power is off at the breaker or the dryer is unplugged.

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1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

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A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

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Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

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