Kenmore appliances manuals

The single control is what you have to regulate temperature electrically. Variance in temperature is otherwise influenced by how much is contained within (which affects cooling circulation) and how much you keep opening the door. https://settingslab.com/avanti-mini-fridge-settings/

From what I have read the control board has failed.

RFA70 settings Controlling the Temperature of the Fridge Compartment The left hand control wheel on the front panel adjusts the internal fridge compartment temperature. The internal temperature should be 5?C or colder, although some sections such as the salad bin will be slightly warmer. The setting of the control wheel will depend on the location of the fridge freezer, the room temperature and how often the door is opened. The normal set point (marked by a 3 on the dial) is usually suitable. If you need to adjust the temperature turn the control wheel using a coin to avoid damage: Clockwise (higher number) - Colder Anti-clockwise (lower number) - Warmer
Here is a user manual go to page 6 http://imagebank.indesitcompany.co.uk/brochures_online/pdf/Hotpoint/Fridges/HBRFA60.pdf

APPLIANCE 911

Kenmore brand refrigerators offer energy efficiency and space saving benefits with a range of innovative designs. The company's refrigerator-freezer units are manufactured in traditional top-mount freezers, bottom-mounts, and side-by-side styles. Occasionally, as with any brand of appliance, the components can malfunction and cause the freezer to stop working properly. A few troubleshooting steps can help locate the problem so that it can be repaired.

1. Power Supply
   • Occasionally the power cord to your fridge slips out, or the outlet it's connected to is defective. Before troubleshooting other potential problems, check that your fridge is plugged in, and if it is, try plugging something else into the outlet to confirm that it is working. If there is no power, check the fuse or circuit breaker and replace or reset if necessary.
     
   Thermostat and Compressor
   • Freezers rely on the thermostat to know when to turn on the compressor and when to turn it off. Thus, the thermostat controls the temperature in your fridge. Typically, for a Kenmore refrigerator, the recommended setting for both the refrigerator and the freezer is 3. Check that both are set properly and if they are, try setting the freezer's thermostat to a slightly colder setting. The refrigerator's compressor should turn on. If you don't hear a fan turning inside, your thermostat or compressor may need to be replaced.
     
   Defrost Timer
   • The defrost timer regulates when the freezer and fridge will run its defrost cycle. If your fridge is not defrosting, or it is defrosting too often, this can affect its ability to freeze food. When in defrost mode, the freezer stops blowing cold air. Test the defrost timer by manually advancing the timer using a screwdriver inserted into the advancement pinion. Turn it clockwise for a 1/4 turn. This should force the timer to advance out of defrost in less than an hour. If it does not, you may have to replace the timer.
     
   Evaporator Coils
   • When the evaporator coils become frozen, your freezer will likely malfunction. If they are dirty or dusty, the same problem can occur. To defrost the coils inside, you can turn your freezer off for 24 to 48 hours then turn it back on. If it works properly, then the evaporator coils were frozen. Clean the coils located on the back of your fridge as well to ensure that dust and debris aren't affecting their efficiency.
     
   Wiring
   • The wiring outside and inside your fridge can be damaged by rodents or pets. Check the wiring outside your fridge for breaks. If there are none, you'll have to check all of the wiring. This is a long process requiring you to use a meter to test each connection. You may want to call an electrician to test the wiring to ensure that it is done properly.
     
   Environmental Factors
   • Once you've checked each component that runs your freezer and confirmed they are working correctly, consider that factors outside the freezer can affect its ability to freeze properly. The problem may be that the door is opened too often or for too long, allowing the cold air to escape and raising the temperature inside. Check the seal around your freezer door to ensure that it is getting a tight seal when closed and no gaps are allowing warm air inside. If you've added a significant amount of food all at once, this will increase the temperature inside and freezing can take several hours. If the vents are blocked by food items the movement of cold air is limited and will affect the freezer's temperature as well.
     
   • 
     

Hope this would help you.
Have a nice day! : )

You probably have an issue with one of the following:

* temperature control assembly (controls freezer and/or fresh food temperatures)
* damper assembly (allows air from freezer to fresh food compartment)

Contact an appliance service company.

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php



The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.


If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

The compressor is cycled on/off by the fresh food temperature setting. The freezer setting controls a panel, or door if you will, that allows cold air to be blown into the freezer.

Since both compartments are getting too cold, the most likely culprit is the fresh food thermostat control, since it controls the compressor cycle. Try setting it to a higher setting, even if it's above normal. Use a manual thermometer to check the temperature of the fresh food compartment and compare it to the control setting. The readings should be the same or very nearly the same.

I assume your refrigerator is controlled by a solid state controller (i.e. a printed circuit board). Some of these allow for calibration of the thermostat to coincide with the actual temperature of the fresh food compartment. That would most likely have to be done by a service technician unless you have expertise in the field.

If calibration is not an option, if you can live with the thermostat setting not reflecting the actual temperature, a free fix is to simply set it higher than you actually want it to be, recognizing that the actual temperature is 'X' degrees lower than the thermostat setting.

The freezer compartment temperature will be similarly affected, and can be controlled by the freezer temp setting, which is actually nothing more than setting the position of the panel which allows or restricts air from being blown into the fresh food compartment from the freezer. Again, the compressor is cycled on and off by the thermostat in the FRESH FOOD compartment which gets its cold air from the freezer compartment.

Top mount refrigerator installed in a garage and the food in the freezer is defrosting when
the temperature in the garage goes below 55 degrees fahrenheit.
On top mount refrigerators you cycle the compressor and fan/fans from the food
compartment temperature. When the room temperature gets colder than 55 F, you have
long off times waiting for the food compartment to warm enough to trip the cold control.
This long off time is allowing the freezer temperature to get high enough that food can start
to defrost.
There is a kit for refrigerators installed in applications where the temperature can go as low
as 34 F and still maintain good freezer temperatures. The kit part number is 5303918301
and it contains a heater that mounts in the control box and an instruction sheet advising
how to install the heater.
Kit 5303918301 contains:
Part # 5303950194 Instruction sheet
Part # 241532101 Heater

I've had this happen to my Kenmore 73503 several times. The 1st time took me a few hours to figure out what the problem was.

Basically the fridge is cooled from the freezer, so when you say your freezer is -2 degrees, it's a big tip off to the problem.

If you look very close in the freezer compartment at the back, you'll notice an opening with a little door at the top of the freezer compartment. This opening extends up the inside of the back of the fridge to the top of the fridge area via a square plastic tube.

Basically what happens in my fridge is the family loads the freezer to high especially at the top/back. This restricts or closes off the opening for the cold air to the fridge portion of the appliance ....resulting in a warm fridge, but cold freezer. Just remove the articles at the back of the freezer to correct problem. (It will take a few hours for the cold air to cool the fridge down)

Note: the temperature control unit in the fridge area controls the little door at the top of the freezer compartment, so if you haven't blocked off the opening, the next place to look would be either at the mechanical parts of the little door or the temperature control unit itself in the fridge