The A/C evaporator coil ("A" coil) has closely spaced fins and those fins are easily clogged, which severely restricts airflow for both cooling and heating. Look at the fins on your blower wheel ("squirrel cage") - if they are dirty then so are the fins in the evaporator coil. Access is a pain, sorry. Disassemble and clean from the bottom/inside.
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Electric motors seem to turn around 1125 rpm or 3600 rpm. The pulley size on the motor and pump must be adjusted to achieve the desired result without overheating /loading the motor. I have seen pumps turning from 800 to 1200 rpm using different pulley size on motor, motor hp and motor rpm. Some brands will turn same pump from 1200 to 3600 rpm depending on if was electric or gas motor. This will certainly shorten the life of the pump but will most likely work. Most turn an average of 1200 rpm for good balance of long life and good supply of air. Pump rpm is usually limited to the power of the motor. Cost effective match of 1.5 hp motor will turn pump about 1000 - 1200 rpm for about 5cfm. Rol Air 2hp motor turns 2 cyl pump about 1100 rpm for 10 cfm. Good luck
The AC output of the stator should be 32-40 volts at 2000 RPM (16-20 per 1000 RPM). With the battery fully charged, your regulator should supply between 13.5 and 15.0 DC volts to the battery. This should be the reading you get on your voltmeter. It will vary depending on what lights and other equipment you have turned on. Sounds like everything is working fine to me. The gauge is reading the DC voltage at the battery while the engine is running. At 2000 RPM, 12 volts is a little low but, considering the accuracy of the gauge, as long as it doesn't fall below 12 volts, it's about right. You don't ride for extended periods at engine RPMs that low. Then at 3000 RPM, 14 volts is about right. If your bike never ran anymore than 12 volts, your battery would slowly go down. If it goes any higher than 15.0 volts, it will boil the battery. Usually, about 14.3 or so with no load on the system is about right.
You may not have enough R134a in the system, or you have over charged the system and your high pressure switch is turning your compressor off when the pressure get's to high.
You really need a A/C gauge set to see of your system is over or under charge. If it's under charge, that's good. A over charged system will cause your a costly repair of replacing a $300.00 rebuilt compressor plus the vacuuming out the system and replacing the accumulator which may have parts from the compressor (bearing).
Normal readings on high and low side with AC OFF (static pressure) – Depends on outside temperature, but normally is between 80-105 PSI Normal low side reading with AC on high speed and MAX & engine at 800-1000 RPM’s – Ranges from 25-35 PSI – Note that on many Chrysler products a normal reading on the low side may be 15-25 PSI Normal high side reading ranges from 200-350 PSI Could be overcharged, not enough air going across condenser fins, compressor not pumping sufficiently… BOTH gauge readings are really needed to get a better idea. Don’t assume that if adding little Freon is good that adding a lot is better! Overcharging just a little can decrease the performance of the system and possibly damage the compressor, assuming the blower speed is on high, AC is set on maximum and engine is around 2,000 RPM’s
1. Check the high and low gauge readings with the AC on & set on MAX/Recirculate, middle vents with the engine at 2,000 RPM’s, blower speed on high. 2. Check the vent temperatures with a thermometer from the middle vents, far right & far left vents? 3. What is the outside temperature at the time the readings were taken? 4. Check to see if the condenser fan blowing strong? 5. Notice if compressor clutch is cylcling excessively.
There can be multiple reasons for this. Low fuel presure is one cause of this.
If you had dropped the bike the impact can loosen the fuel lines inside the fuel tank. Issues with the fuel pump can cause a low fuel presure. In my case the fuel line was loose but still pushing some fuel into the lines. There is no issue a low rpm cause there just enough fuel to run it at 2000 rpm or lower but not enough pressure to run well at high RPM.
First off as silly as this may seem check the filter! A furnace usually has several speeds to the blower. Heat speed is factory set at low! I would also check to see if the squirrel cage has a lot of dirt in it, this could reduce airflow. Make sure you dont have boxes, couches, etc. blocking the return air vents. If you replaced the blower motor, Be darn certain it runs at the same rpm and horse power as the OEM motor did. Furnaces run on CFM or Cubic Feet Per Minute. If you run too much cfm your temp rise across the heat exchanger will be too great causing a low supply air temp! If too little cfm than your furnace may overheat causing it to trop on a high limit switch! There culd be any amount of problems with oyur system, call a certified tech to give it a once over it will save you a headache which is usually cheaper than the bill!