Hi
in this case you have defective regulated power supply and we are looking for a shorted spare parts try this method.
1. check the transformer if shorted, if shorted replace a new one.
2. check the rectifier diode maybe this is shorted, if shorted replace a new one
3. check the Capacitor maybe this is shorted,.
4. check the power transistor regulator check if shorted. if shorted replace a new one
this spare parts above is in power section semiconductor spare no other just concentrate at the power section..
Thanks!
Try a slightly higher rating fuse. Check the voltage output from the wall socket - it might be higher than specified.
There is a burnt capacitor either on the system board or in the power supply that is sending out to much voltage. THe capcitor will have to be tested and possibly replaced.
Check the door switch as described above. The capacitor or diode may be bad. Discharge the capacitor as described earlier in the article. Test the capacitor by removing the leads and setting the VOM to RX100. Probe the terminals. The reading should start in the low ohms and increase toward infinity. Reverse the probes and re-test. The reading should do the same thing. If not, it's bad. To test the diode, disconnect the diode from both the appliance and the capacitor. With the VOM set to RX100, probe the wires. Then reverse the probes and read again. You should get infinity for one reading and low ohms for the other reading. If not, replace. Another cause could be a faulty magnetron, but due to the sensitivity of that piece, it's best left to a professional.
Thanks
Kindly rate the answer
Kevin
Sounds like a short in the main transformer.
had any power surges or lightning strikes lately
Although
the carousel is usually driven by a small motor that's unrelated to the
heating function of the microwave, the microwave cabinet needs to be
opened to repair it. So we recommend that you seek the assistance of a
qualified appliance repair technician. Inspect the plastic drive
coupling that the tray sits on, as well as the ring-and-roller
assembly, to make sure that they're working properly.
I have intermittent cooking problems
Many
over-the-range microwave ovens suffer from intermittent problems caused
by excessive moisture from the range/stove entering the microwave
cabinet and collecting on the circuitry. Often the problem is with one
or two simple connections that may need tightening or soldering. But,
to repair these components, the microwave cabinet needs to be opened.
So we recommend that you seek the assistance of a qualified appliance
repair technician.
If the wave guide has any burn spots, replace it and clean the unit well.
replace plastic drive coupling that the tray sits on, as well as the ring-and-roller assembly
When using a power level other than HIGH orMake sure that the microwave is plugged into a grounded outlet. It must be a 3-prong outlet.
Make sure the clock is set.
Check to see if a programming sequence was entered.
Sometimes improper programming or a program sequence such as delay
start can cause the touch panel to be non-responsive. Unplug microwave
or turn off house circuit breaker for 30 seconds. Plug back in, or
reset circuit breaker, and try reprogramming unit.
Check the house circuit breaker or fuse box. If the microwave is DEAD and there is no display and nothing works- the problem could be a blown fuse or tripped breaker.
10 the magnetron tube cycles on
and off to obtain the lower power. This cycling of the magnetron tube causes this dull
thumping, pulsating, or humming noise.
When combination cooking in microwave/convection models, the cycling of the convection
element and fan will alternate continuously with the hum of the magnetron and the fan.
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The appliance may not be earthed, open the plug and have a look at the wires, check to see if they are correctly connected especially the top green yellow earth wire.
Hi there,
Nothing to change, first of all check all the wires connected properly to the control board and heating element.
problem occurs due to some short wire in oven.
Please do rate this solution.
Good Luck!!
Thanks
Hi, maybe the power section is defective like bridge Recifier Diode is shorted,. and the buss motor is defective also because of blunt capacitor, you just try to click the link below
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_6_1.asp#Level1_6
Goodluck!!!
Regards
PCmania
Hi,
There is an article by an expert ;-
A small amount shouldn't do any harm. But microwaves can not go through
metal (including gold and silver). When they hit the metal, they are
reflected, just like light off a mirror. If there is only metal inside
the microwave, this is even worse than running it with nothing inside,
because the microwaves will be reflected right back into the parts of
the microwave that will be damaged. Also, if the metal has sharp points
or bends or odd things about its shape, you can get sparks or arcs of
electricity between two points on the metal. This can cause the
microwave to catch on fire.
Needless to say, your food won't be heated in a close metal object either...
WHICH FOUND CONTAINER HAVE YOU USED TO REHEAT?
Sparks can result from left over food particles that got carbonized, and
a good cleaning might get rid of it, unless you like looking at the
sparks(I heard you shouldn't stare at a microwave while working though,
washing machines are safer).
Make sure you unplug it while cleaning or doing anything else, those micros are dangerous as hell.
he job of the waveguide cover is to protect the waveguide (opening) and the magnetron from buildup of food particles and grease.
When the grease and food particles build up on and below the cover, they will carbonize and arc - and maybe even flame up!
The solution is to clean it and keep it clean - but if it's too dirty, it must be replaced.
Sometimes it's necessary to remove the cover to clean both sides of it, and to clean the edges of the opening it covers.
It
is held in place with a small plastic rivet (or screw) and once that is
removed, the cover will slide over a little then drop down.
Be VERY careful not to get cut on the potentially sharp edges of the opening, and do not spray anything into the opening.
Apply
an alcohol-based cleaner (such as the purple kind) and /or gentle
scouring powder to a cloth or paper towel and carefully wipe it out,
then when it's dry, reinstall the cover and the rivet.
I suggest
to my customers that they NEVER use any ammonia-based cleaner (like the
blue stuff) on a microwave, since the amonia will crack and distort
polycarbonate plastics.
As we are not there,we have already made an intelligent guess what might be the reaosn for spark. I would advise you to call tech to check the hole behind the capacity motor. Life is not more than Money.There might be million of reasons and to be frank you would agree!!!!
Hope i helped you.
DO RATE THE SOLUTION.
Thanks for using "Fixya".
If there is spark please do not switch on
unless you have confirmed the fault. It is possible that the Magnetron is
leaking and sparking to the ground. As you have mentioned it was stored, it is
quite possible that insect can get into the oven and create soft spots. When
you switch on these will create a short and make the voltage jump and in the
long run damage the magnetron.
So Remove cover after disconnecting , check for dirt/moisture in the cabin, if
so wipe clean and dry, check the magnetron and area clean and use an jet air to
clean off.
Now switch the microwave power on and use a cup of water to test.
If you notice any sparks shut off as the magnetron or the main HT capacitor can
be faulty. Replace with same type. If not check the waveguides within the cabin
for food particles that can burn and spark, check for rust that can corrode and
spark when the ceramic paint has worn out.
If there is heating without any issues, you can use the microwave safely
Click on replacing waveguides: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/microwave/a/5/1146/how-to-replace-a-microwave-guide-cover.html
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Usually answered in minutes!
Microwave oven JVM240WL stopped working while in reheating mode. After that it burns a fuse after a couple of seconds of micriwaving creating a spark in a right top hollow space somewhere behind a capacity motor. What is wrong and what part shall be replaced? Thanks,
Microwave oven JVM240WL stopped working while in reheating mode. After that it burns a fuse every time after a couple of seconds of micriwaving creating a spark in a right top hollow space somewhere behind a capacity motor. What might be wrong and what part shall be replaced? Thanks,
Microwave oven JVM240WL stopped working while in reheating mode. After that it burns a fuse every time after a couple of seconds of micriwaving creating a spark in a right top hollow space somewhere behind a capacity motor (I removed the front cover above controls to get access to a fuse). What might be wrong and what part shall be replaced? Thanks,
Microwave oven JVM240WL stopped working while in reheating mode. After that it burns a fuse every time after a couple of seconds of micriwaving creating a spark in a right top hollow space somewhere behind a capacity motor (I removed the front cover above controls to get access to a fuse). What might be wrong and what part shall be replaced? Thanks,
Microwave oven JVM240WL stopped working while in reheating mode. After that it burns a fuse every time after a couple of seconds of micriwaving creating a spark in a right top hollow space somewhere behind a capacity motor (I removed the front cover above controls to get access to a fuse). What might be wrong and what part shall be replaced? Thanks,
Microwave oven JVM240WL stopped working while in reheating mode. After that it burns a fuse every time after a couple of seconds of micriwaving creating a spark in a right top hollow space somewhere behind a capacity motor (I removed the front cover above controls to get access to a fuse). What might be wrong and what part shall be replaced?
Please note that wiring seems OK as well as other components and contacts, at least there is no visible damages or signs of ware. This microwave was perfectly functioning before it stopped working (and blowing a breaker first and then a fuse) during microwaving. Thanks,
Microwave oven JVM240WL stopped working while in reheating mode. After that it burns a fuse every time after a couple of seconds of micriwaving creating a spark in a right top hollow space somewhere behind a capacity motor (I removed the front cover above controls to get access to a fuse). What might be wrong and what part shall be replaced?
Please note that wiring seems OK as well as other components and contacts, at least there is no visible damages or signs of ware. This microwave was perfectly functioning before it stopped working (and blowing a breaker first and then a fuse) during microwaving. Thanks,
There was no power surge or lightning strikes lately. Micriowave blew a breaker after appr. 2 min of work. It keeps burning fuses (3 so far) without blowing a breaker now. Can this be bad magnetron?
If your assumption with the main transformer is correct what the next step you would suggest?
Microwave oven JVM240WL stopped working while in reheating mode. After that it burns a fuse every time after a couple of seconds of micriwaving creating a spark in a right top hollow space somewhere behind a capacity motor (I removed the front cover above controls to get access to a fuse). What might be wrong and what part shall be replaced?
Please note that wiring seems OK as well as other components and contacts, at least there are no visible damages or signs of wear. This microwave was perfectly functioning before it stopped working (and blowing a breaker first and then a fuse) during microwaving.
There was no power surge or lightning strikes lately. Micriowave blew a breaker after appr. 2 min of work. It keeps burning fuses (3 so far) without blowing a breaker now. Can this be bad magnetron or something else like the main transformer?
What the next step you would suggest?
Thanks,
I assume you refer a capacity motor as to capacitor (please confirm). Also clarify what article you mean.
Thanks,
Please clarify - are there two capacitors, one in the system board and another in the power supply, or you just indicated possible location of one?
Thank you PCmania. Looks like you were correct saying that the problem was with diods. Apparently there is also a burned transitor. I have two questions in this regard:
1. What coused diod and transitor to burn? If they are replaced whould this problem occur again?
2. How can I identify diod and transistor?
Thanks,
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