Can a bad battery cause clutch to slip?

Diagnose Cooling Fan Clutch On engines with belt-driven cooling fans, a fan clutch is often used to save energy and reduce noise. The fan clutch disengages slows or disengages the engine's cooling fan when extra cooling isn't needed. The fan pulls air through the radiator and air conditioning condenser when the vehicle isn't moving fast enough to provide adequate airflow for cooling. A fan can eat up anywhere from a couple of horsepower up to 12 or 15 hp on a big V8, so by reducing the parasitic horsepower loss on the engine the fan clutch makes a noticeable difference in fuel economy

TWO TYPES OF FAN CLUTCHES basic types of fan clutches: thermal and non-thermal (also called "torque limiting Thermal fan clutches have a temperature-sensitive bimetal coil spring on the front that reacts to temperature changes. When the air coming through the radiator is hot, the spring expands and opens an internal valve that reduces clutch slippage. This causes the fan to spin faster for increased cooling. As the air cools, the spring contracts and closes the valve. This increases the amount of clutch slippage, allowing the fan to slow down and decrease cooling FAN CLUTCH OPERATION

The clutch consists of a fluid coupling filled with a silicone based oil. In the cutaway view at the left, the area between the teeth on the clutch plates is filled with silicone fluid. An internal valve opens and closes a passage between the main fluid cavity and a fluid reservoir. When the passage is open, fluid enters the clutch and makes the fan to turn faster. When the valve is shut, fluid flows back to the reservoir but doesn't return, causing the clutch to slip and the fan to turn more slowly.
The non-thermal (torque limiting) fan clutch doesn't have a temperature sensing capability. It reacts only to speed, slipping to limit maximum fan speed to about 1200 to 2200 rpm depending on the application.

FAN CLUTCH PROBLEMS

A slipping fan clutch is often overlooked as the cause of an engine overheating problem.
As a fan clutch ages, fluid deterioration gradually causes an increase in slippage (about 200 rpm per year). After a number of years of service, the clutch may slip so badly that the fan can't keep up with the cooling needs of the engine and the engine overheats. At this point, replacement is often necessary.
Other signs of fan cluch failure would include any looseness in the clutch (check for fan wobble), or oil streaks radiating outward from the clutch hub.
If the clutch is binding, the fan may not release causing excessive cooling and noise, especially at highway speeds

CHECKING THE FAN CLUTCH

A good clutch should offer a certain amount of resistance when spun by hand (engine off, of course!). But if the fan spins with little resistance (more than 1 to 1-1/2 turns), the fan clutch is slipping too much and needs to be replaced.
If the fan binds, does not turn or offers a lot of resistance, it has seized and also needs to be replaced.
Fan speed can also be checked with an optical tachometer, by marking one of the fan blades with chalk and using a timing light to observe speed changes, and/or listening for changes in fan noise as engine speed changes.
You should also try to wiggle the fan blades by hand. If there is any wobble in the fan, there is a bad bearing in the fan clutch, or a worn bearing on the water pump shaft. A bad water pump bearing will usually cause the water pump to leak and/or make noise, but not always. Remove the fan clutch and see if the play is in the water pump shaft. If it feels tight (no play or wobble), replace the fan clutch.

FAN CLUTCH REPLACEMENT

Many experts say it is a good idea to replace the fan clutch at the same time as the water pump if the water pump has failed. The reason is because both age at about the same rate, so if the water pump has failed, the fan clutch may also fail soon. As as we mentioned earlier, a high mileage fan clutch may be slipping excessively increasing the risk of overheating.
When you buy a replacement fan clutch, make sure you get the same type (thermal or nonthermal) as the original. You can always upgrade from a nonthermal to a more efficient thermal fan clutch, but never the reverse. Or, you can get rid of the fan and clutch altogether and install an aftermarket electric fan kit to cool the radiator.

If the transmission is full of fluid. please go here to read the problems with the pressure control module--http://repairpal.com/transmission-pressure-control-solenoid-failure-may-cause-erratic-shifting-593, Hope this helps, chevy impala pcm may cause erratic shifting.

M/T car with a clutch
the slave is the device that pushes the clutch lever , as it enters the clutch bell housing (the hunk of alum. that is between the engine and trans 'bell shaped..)
400 or 4000? , my guess is you mean, 4000 rpm
3000 on the round is normal./
the engine should idle at 800 rpm.
that is just 1 tick below the 1 (1 = 1000 on the scale see the 1k or
x1000 on the dial, that means all numbers are times 1000.
so point 8 rpm is 0.8 x 1000 or 800.

do not ride the clutch pedal or you will buy many a clutch.
the save bad, never cause, slipping clutch. (near impossible)
the hyd, clutch actuator is self adjusting as clutch wears.
the clutch will grind gears if the slave fails. the slave annoucces its bad in advance buy loss of fluid on ground and level drop on the cutch master cylinder.
post the symptoms, and ask for help based on those facts.
a slipping clutch is a bad clutch. (or soaked in oil, and same )
please repost real RPMs using the x1000 scale factor for best answer
and when they happen.

So you can race the engine in neutral, and no problem with it trying to die? If that's so, I think you need a clutch job. A clutch disc contaminated with oil or grease will cause jerking and slipping.

the tourqe converter solinoid when bad..it wasnt allowing the transmission to go into lock-up mode...the slipping u felt caused the tranmission clutches to wear prematurely....

I have this mower and had this same problem. It turned out the bolts holding the motor to frame backed out and were allowing the motor to tilt, and then the belts would slip and burn up. Check all motor bolts for tight, and if not tight change bolts and lock washers. Lock washers were not originally on these mowers.

No,1 quart won't cause slipping

A bad lock-up Solenoid or Worn Converter Clutch, Might

OD is another issue

ANY SLIPPING-and you will be completely
rebuilding it ,in a couple months

Is the belt slipping? If it's slipping you'll notice it, because it'll smoke pretty soon. If, as you watch it under varying load, it slows down with the blades then the belt is fine.

If it's not the belt then it's going to be the electric clutch that drives the belt. Get your voltmeter out and tap into the wires that go to the clutch, watch it as the mower runs. Anything under about 13V and the clutch may slip. If the voltage is good then the clutch is worn out. They don't cost too much, I'm pretty sure they're well under $100 still.

Make sure the wires that plug into the clutch are making a good connection. You want to check the voltage between the switch and clutch so that you're also checking the switch- if it's got a little crud in it, or a bad connection farther up the line, it can cause the clutch to slip, and you'll see this as the voltage dropping.

lp

check the clutch linkage and make sure it'd not binding and di you replace the pressure plate? if not then it will need to be replace to stop the slipping if the linkage is not sticking or jamming. If the pressure plate springs are broke it would cause it to slip, also if the master cylinder is not releasing this could cause it to slip.

try changing the soloniod