Apon disassembly I found the oil pump had locked I disassembled the pump it had dirt in it .The metal pump drive gear damaged the plastic driven gear because the dirt locks up pump . Looks like the replacment hose and pickup assembly have a filter to keep dirt from gitting in pump. Got parts from Home Depot on line for about $12.00.
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Re: No auto lube to chain
If the filter is intact, then the dirt was in the line to begin with. Disconnect the inlet line at the pump and blow out the line with compressed air (from the tank side). You might clean the oil tank while you are at it. The blow-out is unnecessary if replacing the above parts. Put some oil into the new pump to prime it. Don't try to fix the damaged plastic gear.
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simple answer : none ! use bar/chain oil in auto lube tank , some suppliers even tell you right on bottle what to set your drip rate too for your model saw , other types of oil wont have the same viscosity (or temp range) to lube your saw and it will wear out faster , allways fill to just below the top of tank (not top of fill neck) leave a little air gap this keeps it from vapor locking and stopping up auto oiler pathway
DO NOT CRANK THIS ATV AGAIN!! GET IN TOUCH WITH A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC.
If you are going to do it... remove the engine..its going to have to be totally disassembled to make sure ALL the metal and rubber pieces are COMPLETELY removed. This will also provide you with the evidence for a parts list for replacements parts and pieces as you take it apart..slowly.. Clean parts make for a clean engine.. watch for small oil passages and any little nooks and crannies in the cases that will pack with ground up metal..COMPRESSED AIR and long wooden swabs work wonders.
ps.. replace the cam chain no matter what it looks like!!!!!
The oil pump is run by a worm gear that will strip easily if the oil pump becomes clogged. You'll have to remove the bar and do some disassembly on the saw, but it is possible to fix. You can buy the replacement parts kit (that comes with an instruction sheet) from poulan for about 20 bucks, just call the number on the saw.
I have seen something similar on my own saw some time ago. Probably two things have gone wrong. First there is something wrong with the transfer mechanism between the clutch handle and the brake spring. I do not remeber the exact detailsy, but there is a plastic part engaging a metal part in the transfer mechanism between handle and spring, that tends to wear out so that it will not release the spring when moving the brake handle. (look at the engaging mechanism where the handle is turning on its axle/bolt) If you take off the chain guard / cover you should be able to follow or see this mechanism and use a screwdriver and a pair og pliers and try to move the transfer mechanism so that the brake can be set to the released position. Once this is done the brake mechanism/cover can be taken off and you can clearly see what part that needs to be changed (I think it was the handle itself, due to worn out enganging plastic lugs). The brake spring obviously needs to be disengaged when assembling and disassembling.
Whent it comes to chain lubing, you can try to clean out the oil tank, blow through the hoses and look for dirt and particles clogging the lube circuit. As a test, when the lubing is working correctly, the chain should throw off visible amounts of small drops of oil from the tip of the blade, when you let the chain run at working speed just in front of a piece of paper or cardboard. If no oil stains appear, the lubrication is failing and overheating and excessive wear will occur. Use the correct oil too. The wrong type of oil can potentially ruin the lube circuit. There is a small plunger-type oil pump that is driven by an excenter located near the inside of the chain sprocket drive shaft. You can easily test its function by pressing the plunger carefully and see whether oil comes out on the lube oil opening. It should be cheap to replace if broken.
You want to buy Bar grade oil, it is sticky and stays on the chain, it will properly lube the bar and chain with a full tank o gas. People have used, used motor oil but this wears down the chain and gears from the micro sized filings in the oil so use clean bar oil to lube the chain correctly. also if the chain sprocket has a small hole in the tip of the saw you will need to buy a gear lube pump to keep grease in the gear at the tip of the blade. This should be lube each time you fill the fuel tank and once half way threw the tank of fuel to make the bar last longer. The bar oil is a special grade of oil and requires bar oil for it to adhere to the bar and the bar guides. Hope this helps and thanks for using fix-ya.
If the link is not your saw it can be found here. The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for the oil system and it is sketchy at best. Oil components and part numbers are listed but may be on different illustrations. They are also beneficial with disassembly/reassembly: Poulan.com http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/POULAN-WEED-EATER/75.59.html The dash number of your serial number is the type.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou