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on any 12v vehicle system, any battery wire connected to the chassis or motor block will connect to the negative terminal on the battery the other typically red insulated wire connects to the positive terminal.
Depending on the space available, physical dimensions of the battery you are replacing and its amp hour rating; you may want to wire three 12v batteries in series (or if you have the room, six 6v batteries). On one battery, you should have one Positive + (usually red) terminal to connect your Positive + (Red) cable from your equipment to and the other terminal (Negative - Black) would jumper to the Positive of the second battery. From the Negative terminal of the second battery, jumper to the Positive terminal of the last battery, leaving the Negative terminal for your equipment Negative - Cable (Usually Black) to connect to. All jumpers between batteries must be the same size wire as the equipment cables to carry the amperes of the equipment load (Usually a motor).
Take some sort of 12V tester and measure voltage on the small terminal on the starter to ground. You should get close to 12 V with key turned. If you see the 12 V, test the incoming large battery terminal. It should also be close to 12V. IF that's ok, check the large terminal on the starter. If you have 12V here, then check for bad ground connection. If any of these are not 12V remove cable and clean connection. How are you sure the battery is ok?
Make sure that you do not use a 12v charger on a 6v battery ... regardless of any adaptor!
This is a common issue that can be solved if you are a little 'electrically minded': get two different colour coded cables with alligator clips on both ends and using a multimeter check that the positive output of the charger is 'clipped' to the positive terminal of the battery terminal (usually use a 'red' cable) and do the same for the negative parts (using a 'black' cable). To minimize potential issue with a short circuit, I would suggest connecting a low wattage old 12V car bulb (3W recommended) in series between the positive output of the charger and the positive terminal of the battery: this will also limit the current load.
Charger +ve <clip>------<clip><Bulb><clip>--------<clip> +ve Battery
Charger -ve <clip>-------------------------------------------<clip> -ve Battery
you will need to search for a wiring diagram for your model of car radio
car kit blue - connect to ignition cable OR connects to switched 12v cable going to radio car kit red - Direct to +terminal of battery OR to constant 12v cable going to radio car kit black - connects to GROUND going to radio car kit yellow - connects to mute function of radio if your radio supports it.
OR connect blue and red together and directly to battery and connect black to Body of vehicle (not recommended as could result in draining of battery, even thought the kit is supposed to prevent this).
Begin by checking the battery to make sure it has 12v. clean both terminals where they contact the battery posts, check for 12v at the large battery cable on the starter. Check the small wire on the starter for 12v with the key turned to the start position. Be sure that engine end of negative cable is also clean and secure. If good voltage is present at both starter connections as tested, likely the starter is bad. If no power to small wire, check neutral safety switch and ignition switch for power going into and out of them.
sounds like a 12V drain on the system, like a trunk or glove box light that won't shut off.> Could be many. many other reasons why. The way I would find the draining circuit would be to remove the neg cable of the battery. I then would connect a 12V test light between the neg battery TERMINAL and the neg battery CABLE. With a 12V drain the light will shine. I would install into the light a 9V battery powered recepticle to hold computer and radio station memory. Then I remove fuses 1 at a time, then reinstall, at the same time looking for the 12V light to go out. Hope this helps.
the car amp needs to be wired using a +12 power, ground, and +12v signal (rmt) cables.
the +12 volt cable needs to be connected from the posative terminal of the car battery to a fuse (the right size should be written on the amp somewhere) then to the +12v on the amp.
the ground cable needs to be connected to the negative terminal of your car battery.
the RMT is the more complicated one, this needs to be connected to the header unit or the ignition switch. if you look in the instructions for your header unit (the unict where you insert CD's or tapes etc) this should explain whewre exactly to connect this cable. or you can connect it to the terminal on the ignition switch which becomes live only when you turn the key, should be the third one in. this line basicly tells your amp to turn itself on when it recieves a 12v current. you can also wire it up to a manual switch directly from the battery by connecting another cable to the posative terminal of the battery then to a switch then to the RMT terminal of the amp.
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