- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Unplug your Whirlpool Duet washer from the wall receptacle.
Remove the three screws along the bottom front of the washer. Pull the bottom panel from the washer, opening the front of the washer.
Reach your arm up through the opening to locate the door latch assemble inside the body of the washer. Grasp the tear-shaped tab with your fingers. Gently pull down on the tab until you hear a click. Pull on the Duet door to open it.
Look inside the latch opening in the body of the washer for foreign material. Remove it from the switch with tweezers or needle-nose pliers. Look for any pieces of broken plastic that could indicate the door lock mechanism is broken and needs replacing.
Shut the door on the washer and plug it into the wall receptacle. Confirm that the door remains unlocked. Unplug the washer and release the lock on the washer door as before if it fails to remain unlocked.
Unplug the Duet washer from the receptacle. Pull the washer from the wall so you can access the rear of the washer.
Remove the three screws from the top back of the Duet washer. Lift the top off the washer. Find the central control unit, or CCU, at the back right of the washing machine.
Check that all the wiring harnesses plug securely into the CCU. The wiring harness for the door-lock solenoids is the sixth harness from the left of the CCU. The wiring harness for the door-lock main switches is the only black harness connected to the CCU.
Remove the round retainer holding the rubber boot gasket from the Duet washer door opening by inserting a flat-head screwdriver beneath the spring on the retainer. Pull forward on the retainer spring to release it from the boot gasket.
Pull the rubber boot gasket away from the opening at the switch location to access the door switch assembly. Check the wiring harness on the switch assembly to make sure it is engaged. Snap the gasket back in place, and replace the retainer on the washer.
Plug the Duet washer into the wall receptacle. Select a washing cycle and press start. Listen for the door lock to engage. Turn the washer off and listen for the door lock to disengage, or wait 30 seconds and try to open the washer door.
Unplug the washer from the wall receptacle. Pull the wiring harness for the door-lock solenoids from the CCU. Number the sets of wires attached to the wiring harness as 3, 2 and 1, from left to right.
Set an electrical multimeter to "Ohm X1K." Insert one probe from the multimeter into opening number 3, along with the wire. Insert the remaining probe into opening number 2, along with the wires. The multimeter should read 60 ohms. Leave the probe in opening number 3, and move the remaining probe to opening number 1. The multimeter should read 60 ohms in this position as well. Should you receive any other reading, replace the wiring harness.
Reconnect the wiring harness for the door-lock solenoids into the CCU. Plug the Duet washing machine into the wall receptacle. Select a wash cycle on the duet, then press start. Listen for the door lock to engage and immediately unplug the washer from the wall.
Leave the wiring harness for the door-lock main switches plugged into the CCU. Number the wires in the harness 5, 4, 2 and 1, from left to right. The middle opening on the wiring harness is empty, so there isn't a third wire.
Set the dial on the electrical multimeter to "Ohms X1K." Insert one probe into the opening next to wire 5, and insert the remaining probe into the opening next to wire 4. The meter should read zero ohms.
Insert one probe into the opening next to wire number 2, and insert the remaining probe into the opening next to wire 1. The meter should read zero ohms. Replace the wiring harness should you receive any other reading.
Even if it wasn't a poor connection made during the assembly of the wire harness, it could've loosened up over time as your dryer was used being that when the clothes spin the inertia causes shifting of different things inside the dryer. How long did the dryer run before this happened?
Also gas dryers always have a fuse in them, I'd check that before you put it all back together too because chances are that if you have a burnt wire the fuse probably went too. The fuse is usually white, about an inch long and has to male end terminals on it.
Having checked the thermal fuseto be good i will give you a partial list other things that could make the dryer not start
circuit breaker, use your meter set to volts ac and check for 240 vac at the outlet,if 240 not at power outlet check for burnt connection inside outlet or bad circuit breaker
if 240vac at outlet check for 240 vac at terminal block on back of dryer where cord connects,if 240 at outlet but not terminal block replace cord , if burnt connection at terminal block,replace cord and block
finally the motor,manufactures do not publish wiring diagrams online and the only way for me to tell you to use jumper cord to check motor is find the wiring diagram inside of control panel and place one wire on the terminal indicated as neutral on wiring diagram and one wire on terminal indicated on diagram as run winding
firstly though check door switch to have contunity (0 ohms) and the start switch to have (0 ohms)WHILE PUSHING IT IN(the start switch isa momentary contact switch and will only have contunity while its pushed in) to check timer again use wiring diagram and find chart that shows various cycles and with timer set to a cycle the two wires is says will have contunity will be indicated by a solid black line on the diagram
You'll need to check the thermostats and heating element. The dryer has like two or three thermostats: two that operate the heating element, and one that burns out like a fuse if it gets too hot. Pick up a electric multimeter. I got mine at wal-mart for $5. Put it on the resistance (greek letter omega or upside down horseshoe symbol). 1X or 10X or anything doesn't matter. When you touch the probes together the needle should jump, indicating that there's very low resistance there because the probes don't resist electricity flowing them. You can use this to test the components. Unplug the dryer for God's sake, and then try to take off the back panel. If you don't see a way you can probably "pop" the top of the dryer by prying it up with a putty knife in the seam between the sides and top of the dryer. Now remove the back, and find the heating element assembly, probably on the lower right. There will be two or three wires connected to the element assembly. Two 220v wires(probably red) will supply power to the element and one control wire(probably yellow) send feedback to the controller. Check the resistance of the heating element and each of the thermostats by putting the probes on the wires on each "side" of it and check the resistance. If something has a very high resistance on the high voltage wires, it's probably defunct and needs to be replaced. The yellow or control wire might have a resistor on it that your meter would read as bad, but you're only concerned with the high voltage supply wires. Note that the wiring diagram will probably be hidden somewhere inside the dryer when you open it up. If all the parts in the element assembly check out ok follow the wire connected from the element to the motor and check the resistance of the resistors and stuff on the diagram. Note that is a resistor have a value like 10k(10,000 ohms) you may have your meter set too low for the needle to actually read it. That's what the 1X, 10X multiplier settings are for if your meter has them. Other problems could be a loose wire, dirty moisture sensor inside the drum, defective controller, or defective switches.
This is kind of a long shot but it is worth a try, most appliances have schematics enclosed in a pocket when removing the access panel. Look around the sides and bottom and you should see a paper pocket with the wiring diagrams and color codes for the wires.
ckd for wire from thermostat on rear of blower or high limit might be easier to look at wiring diagram wire is usually orange they have been known to come off voltage is feed to timer motor during auto setting from a thermostat