Question about Electrolux Refrigerators
It beeps every couple of minutes.
the temperature of both the freezer and the fridge is higher than it is supposed to be.
possible causes of problem?
-kids like to hang on the doors of the fridge and on its handles
-sometimes its open for a couple minutes, a couple times a day.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.
Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.
Posted on May 12, 2008
SOURCE: Fridge/freezer beeping
There is a lever switch usually above the door (when door is in open position) on the fridge cabinet. Not on the actual door. The beeping should stop if this lever is pressed. If the door is positioned correctly it would depress this lever when closed. It may be that the door adjustment is slightly out. If the beeping does not stop when depressed, then your printed circuit board (located usually above the door) is faulty and needs to be replaced.
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
First, the Samsung Refrigerator is the only fridge that has one compressor, but two different evaporators to operate the freezer and the refrigerator separately. Thus, you can have the bottom freezer working fine, while the fridge part will not.
The reason your fridge is not working is probably a faulty door switch in the refrigerator. The switch is malfunctioning, telling the computer that the door is open. Therefore you hear the door alarm go off in intervals, even though the door is actually closed. If the computer registers an open door, it will not pump cool air into the refrigerator, as that would be a waste of energy. All you need to do is replace the door switch. Until you get a new one, you can temporarily fix your fridge by simply removing the old switch altogether. You will not have any light in the fridge, however, it will cool again just fine until you are able to install the new switch (a simple plug-in contraption, by the way).
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
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Hello Frank Van Acker - Typically when the refrigerator is beeping or buzzing it indicates a warning of a possible malfunction or that it has detected an unsafe temperature inside. Try resetting the unit by unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. Wait approximately ten minutes. If it proves to be ineffective contact a professional to move forward accurately. The refrigerator could possibly be experiencing a communication problem with the temperature control/board or wiring failure.
Jan 06, 2013 | Electrolux Icon 22.6 cu. ft. Counter-Depth...
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