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A/c inside fan motor

I have an a/c unit and the fan motor speed is high.I would like to reduce the speed so air would cool and remove the moisture from it.There are the wires that are conected to the circuit board;Black, Blue and Red.(White is neutral, and 2 Brown wires(from motor to capacitator and back to motor).How do I reduce the speed of the motor?

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You have a single speed motor and attempting to reduce the speed by lowering the voltage will shorten its life considerably. The best way would be to locate a multispeed motor and get a switch to select the speeds. Not a economical means of accomplishing your desired result. Cooling the air beyond the condensation point would produce ice and lower the capacity to dehumidify.
eric

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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Ok So We Bought This. But We Have A Problem Does It Take Water Or Not? Thats What I Need To Know! Please Help!


The DeLonghi PACA120E Portable Air Conditioner quickly cools rooms up to 400 square feet and comes equipped with several functions that make operation easy and low maintenance. Its 3 operating modes are supplemented with no-drip technology, an adjustable thermostat, 24-hour timer, and much more. This unit truly takes the work out of cooling medium- to large-sized spaces. Multiple Modes and Functions The DeLonghi A120E-also known as the Delonghi Pinguino PAC A120E-offers 3 operating modes and 3 additional operating functions that make this model versatile and energy efficient. Cool Mode: 12,000 BTUs of cooling power help cool large rooms, offices, or basements. Dry Mode: Reduce room humidity by removing excess moisture from the air. Fan Mode: Circulate air to keep your room comfortable without using a lot of energy. Low, medium, high, and an auto-speed are all included (auto speed selects a fan speed for you). Smart Function: Your AC uses Cool and Fan mode based on ambient room temperature. This function will also select your fan speed and keeps your room comfortable without wasting energy. Sleep Function: Using a low fan speed, the AC gradually reduces operation so your room remains comfortable but the AC runs more quietly and efficiently while you sleep. Boost Function: This function is ideal for the summer months and uses the maximum fan speed to rapidly reduce your room temperature. Useful Features Using DeLonghi's patented no-drip technology, this unit is "dripless" under normal conditions, meaning the AC will discharge all of the moisture collected from the air-so you typically won't have to worry about draining the water. When dehumidifying a lot of moisture in Dry mode, excess water may collect in the internal collection tank. Once the tank is full, the air conditioner will automatically turn off to avoid overflow damage. You can also use the included continuous drain hose as a no-fuss way to eliminate excess water as needed. An adjustable thermostat provides additional convenience by allowing you to set your room temperature. The DeLonghi portable AC will cycle on and off to eliminate over-cooling and maintain the set temperature. Additional Features Washable Air Filter: A washable air filter helps remove allergens and other particles from incoming air and saves you money on replacement filters. Quiet Operation: High efficiency compressor and components result in quiet performance. Electronic Controls: The LCD screen displays the timer and temperature settings, while intuitive indicator lights accompany each operating mode. 24-Hour Timer: This feature lets you program your AC to turn on or off up to 24 hours in advance, so it only runs when needed. Window Bracket: Double window bracket is included with purchase for flexible installation. Self-Diagnosis System: The unit includes a self-diagnostic maintenance system that identifies malfunctions should they occur. Remote Control: Use the full-featured remote control to change modes, set the timer, and select a fan speed up to 23 feet away from the receiver (on the front of the unit). Portability: Easy-roll casters and dual carrying handles make it simple to move this model from space to space.

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Air Conditioning Tips & Tricks You Must Know!


  • Try setting your thermostat between 72°F and 78°F. Each degree setting below 78°F will increase your energy consumption by approximately 8%. As you can see, that can add up to a lot of money over a year.
  • Inspect and clean both the indoor and outdoor AC/Heating coils. The indoor coil in your air conditioner acts as a magnet for dust because it is constantly wetted during the cooling season. Dirt build-up on the indoor coil is the single most common cause of poor efficiency. The outdoor coil must also be checked periodically for dirt build-up and cleaned if necessary.
  • Check the refrigerant charge. The circulating fluid in your air conditioner is a special refrigerant gas that is put in when the system is installed. If the system is overcharged or undercharged with refrigerant, it will not work properly. You may need a service contractorto check the fluid and adjust it appropriately.
  • Use bath and kitchen fans sparsely when you are running the air conditioning system.
  • Reduce the cooling load by using cost-effective conservation measures. For example, effectively shade east and west windows. When possible, delay heat-generating activities, such as dishwashing or baking, until the evening on hot days.
  • Try to not use a dehumidifier at the same time your air conditioner is operating. The dehumidifier will increase the cooling load and force the air conditioner to work harder, which in turn increases your utility bill.
  • Over most of the cooling season, keep the house closed tight during the day. Don’t let in unwanted heat and humidity. If practical, ventilate at night either naturally or with fans.
Room Air Conditioning Units
  • The unit should be level when installed, so that the inside drainage system and other mechanisms operate efficiently. If possible, install the unit in a shaded spot on your home’s north or east side. Direct sunshine on the unit’s outdoor heat exchanger decreases efficiency by as much as 10%. You can plant trees and shrubs to shade the air conditioner, but do not block the airflow.
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  • Set your air conditioner’s thermostat as high as comfortably possible in the summer. The less difference between the indoor and outdoor temperatures, the lower your overall cooling bill will be. And don’t set your thermostat at a slighter setting than normal when you turn on your air conditioner. It will not cool your home any faster and could result in excessive cooling and, therefore, unnecessary expense.
  • Don’t place lamps or televisions near your air-conditioner’s thermostat. The thermostat senses heat from these appliances, which can cause the air conditioner to run longer than necessary.
Proper maintenance of your air conditioner will also save energy. Be sure to do the following:
  • At the start of each cooling season, inspect the seal between the air conditioner and the window frame to ensure it makes contact with the unit’s metal case. Moisture can damage this seal, allowing cool air to escape from your house.
  • Check your unit’s air filter once a month and clean or replace filters as necessary. Keeping the filter clean can lower your air conditioner’s energy consumption by 5% to 15%.
  • Occasionally pass a stiff wire through the unit’s drain channels. Clogged drain channels prevent a unit from reducing humidity, and the resulting excess moisture may discolor walls or carpet.
  • *In the winter, either cover your room air conditioner or remove and store it.

on Aug 19, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Lincoln MKT - air conditioner won't stay cold


It could be any of a number of things:

  • Low refrigerant. An A/C system requires a certain amount of refrigerant to cool properly. If low, it works less efficiently and does not cool well.
  • Dirty condenser -- The condenser is the heat exchanger mounted in front of the radiator. It cools the high pressure refrigerant vapor after it exits the compressor so it can condense into a liquid. If the condenser is full of leaves, bugs and road debris, air flow through the unit may be blocked to the point where little cooling occurs. Cleaning the condenser should cure the problem.
  • Inoperative condenser cooling fan. The condenser often has its own separate electric cooling fan. This fan should come on and remain on when the A/C system is operating. If the fan motor, motor relay or wiring is defective, the fan may not be working.
  • Air or moisture contamination -- For the refrigerant inside the system to do its job properly, it must not be contaminated with air or moisture. Air reduces the cooling efficiency of the system while moisture can freeze and form ice that causes blockages in orifice tubes and metering valves. Air and moisture contamination may be the result of unrepaired leaks in the system, or failing to vacuum purge the system prior to recharging it with refrigerant.
  • Blockages -- Debris, rust or debris in the system may plug up the orifice tube or metering valve that admits refrigerant into the evaporator. If this vital point becomes obstructed, the flow of refrigerant may be restricted or blocked causing a loss of cooling -- and possible compressor damage as well in systems that rely on oil circulating with the refrigerant for lubrication.
  • Mechanical problem -- These include things like metering valve failures, compressor wear, a compressor clutch that fails to engage, bad pressure switches, etc.
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    It could be any of a number of things:in your case I would look under the hood at the fuses and relays there , here are some other things

  • Low refrigerant. An A/C system requires a certain amount of refrigerant to cool properly. If low, it works less efficiently and does not cool well.
  • Dirty condenser -- The condenser is the heat exchanger mounted in front of the radiator. It cools the high pressure refrigerant vapor after it exits the compressor so it can condense into a liquid. If the condenser is full of leaves, bugs and road debris, air flow through the unit may be blocked to the point where little cooling occurs. Cleaning the condenser should cure the problem.
  • Inoperative condenser cooling fan. The condenser often has its own separate electric cooling fan. This fan should come on and remain on when the A/C system is operating. If the fan motor, motor relay or wiring is defective, the fan may not be working.
  • Air or moisture contamination -- For the refrigerant inside the system to do its job properly, it must not be contaminated with air or moisture. Air reduces the cooling efficiency of the system while moisture can freeze and form ice that causes blockages in orifice tubes and metering valves. Air and moisture contamination may be the result of unrepaired leaks in the system, or failing to vacuum purge the system prior to recharging it with refrigerant.
  • Blockages -- Debris, rust or debris in the system may plug up the orifice tube or metering valve that admits refrigerant into the evaporator. If this vital point becomes obstructed, the flow of refrigerant may be restricted or blocked causing a loss of cooling -- and possible compressor damage as well in systems that rely on oil circulating with the refrigerant for lubrication.
  • Mechanical problem -- These include things like metering valve failures, compressor wear, a compressor clutch that fails to engage, bad pressure switches, etc.
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    It could be any of a number of things:

  • Low refrigerant. An A/C system requires a certain amount of refrigerant to cool properly. If low, it works less efficiently and does not cool well.
  • Dirty condenser -- The condenser is the heat exchanger mounted in front of the radiator. It cools the high pressure refrigerant vapor after it exits the compressor so it can condense into a liquid. If the condenser is full of leaves, bugs and road debris, air flow through the unit may be blocked to the point where little cooling occurs. Cleaning the condenser should cure the problem.
  • Inoperative condenser cooling fan. The condenser often has its own separate electric cooling fan. This fan should come on and remain on when the A/C system is operating. If the fan motor, motor relay or wiring is defective, the fan may not be working.
  • Air or moisture contamination -- For the refrigerant inside the system to do its job properly, it must not be contaminated with air or moisture. Air reduces the cooling efficiency of the system while moisture can freeze and form ice that causes blockages in orifice tubes and metering valves. Air and moisture contamination may be the result of unrepaired leaks in the system, or failing to vacuum purge the system prior to recharging it with refrigerant.
  • Blockages -- Debris, rust or debris in the system may plug up the orifice tube or metering valve that admits refrigerant into the evaporator. If this vital point becomes obstructed, the flow of refrigerant may be restricted or blocked causing a loss of cooling -- and possible compressor damage as well in systems that rely on oil circulating with the refrigerant for lubrication.
  • Mechanical problem -- These include things like metering valve failures, compressor wear, a compressor clutch that fails to engage, bad pressure switches, etc.
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  • Low refrigerant. An A/C system requires a certain amount of refrigerant to cool properly. If low, it works less efficiently and does not cool well.
  • Dirty condenser -- The condenser is the heat exchanger mounted in front of the radiator. It cools the high pressure refrigerant vapor after it exits the compressor so it can condense into a liquid. If the condenser is full of leaves, bugs and road debris, air flow through the unit may be blocked to the point where little cooling occurs. Cleaning the condenser should cure the problem.
  • Inoperative condenser cooling fan. The condenser often has its own separate electric cooling fan. This fan should come on and remain on when the A/C system is operating. If the fan motor, motor relay or wiring is defective, the fan may not be working.
  • Air or moisture contamination -- For the refrigerant inside the system to do its job properly, it must not be contaminated with air or moisture. Air reduces the cooling efficiency of the system while moisture can freeze and form ice that causes blockages in orifice tubes and metering valves. Air and moisture contamination may be the result of unrepaired leaks in the system, or failing to vacuum purge the system prior to recharging it with refrigerant.
  • Blockages -- Debris, rust or debris in the system may plug up the orifice tube or metering valve that admits refrigerant into the evaporator. If this vital point becomes obstructed, the flow of refrigerant may be restricted or blocked causing a loss of cooling -- and possible compressor damage as well in systems that rely on oil circulating with the refrigerant for lubrication.
  • Mechanical problem -- These include things like metering valve failures, compressor wear, a compressor clutch that fails to engage, bad pressure switches, etc.
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    It could be any of a number of things:

  • Low refrigerant. An A/C system requires a certain amount of refrigerant to cool properly. If low, it works less efficiently and does not cool well.
  • Dirty condenser -- The condenser is the heat exchanger mounted in front of the radiator. It cools the high pressure refrigerant vapor after it exits the compressor so it can condense into a liquid. If the condenser is full of leaves, bugs and road debris, air flow through the unit may be blocked to the point where little cooling occurs. Cleaning the condenser should cure the problem.
  • Inoperative condenser cooling fan. The condenser often has its own separate electric cooling fan. This fan should come on and remain on when the A/C system is operating. If the fan motor, motor relay or wiring is defective, the fan may not be working.
  • Air or moisture contamination -- For the refrigerant inside the system to do its job properly, it must not be contaminated with air or moisture. Air reduces the cooling efficiency of the system while moisture can freeze and form ice that causes blockages in orifice tubes and metering valves. Air and moisture contamination may be the result of unrepaired leaks in the system, or failing to vacuum purge the system prior to recharging it with refrigerant.
  • Blockages -- Debris, rust or debris in the system may plug up the orifice tube or metering valve that admits refrigerant into the evaporator. If this vital point becomes obstructed, the flow of refrigerant may be restricted or blocked causing a loss of cooling -- and possible compressor damage as well in systems that rely on oil circulating with the refrigerant for lubrication.
  • Mechanical problem -- These include things like metering valve failures, compressor wear, a compressor clutch that fails to engage, bad pressure switches, etc.
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