RIGHT HAND KNOB AND LEFT HAND ROUND KNOB BOTH ARE SO TIGHT SPECIALLY LEFT HAND KNOB DOES NOT MOVE IT DOES NOT LOOSE AND TIGHT. ONCE A TIME I TRIED TO OPEN THE HEAD BUT COULD NOT SUCCEED CAN YOU GIVE ME TIPS AND OR TELL ME HOW TO OPEN.........THANKS
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Re: HEAD IS TOO TIGHT TO WORK WITH CAMERA SONY 250
I've had this happen before and I finally went to a auto parts store and purchased a filter wrench. Not the metal kind, but the kind with the adjustable strap. Put it around the knob and it worked like a charm to free the knob up. Hope this helps!
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The small box you will turn towards you while you hold the big handwheel. It might me very tight but it isn't going to break by turning hard. Tighten the small screw before you begin. When it is loose you can wind your bobbin.
It appears from the manual (see pages 9-10, which are on 11-12 of the pdf version) that it is necessary to disengage the hand wheel (loosen the center knob) with the bobbin winding lever all the way to the left, before putting the bobbin on the winder spindle. Put the bobbin on the spindle, then set the winding lever to the right position to engage the spindle drive. Do not tighten the hand wheel knob until after the bobbin is wound and the lever is moved back the left to permit bobbin removal.
If you are following these directions exactly, or you can't get the hand wheel knob loose, you have a mechanical problem to solve. You may need a stronger hand to loosen the knob, or something in the bobbin winder is bent, out of adjustment, or jammed with foreign material. If you are mechanically inclined, you may want to remove the top cover of the machine for inspection.
When the last exposure is made, the film advance lever will not move the film to allow another picture to be taken. Turn the camera upside-down; with the lens facing you. Locate a small button in a slight recess in the right-hand side of the bottom of the camera. Press the button in to release the sprocket drive mechanism from the film. Turn the camera right-side up again, and unfold or open the film crank knob from the top most part of left-hand side knob (the one with the ASA settings on it). Return or rewind the film back into the canister by gently turning the crank clockwise until you feel the resistance ease up completely. This indicates the film has been completely rewound and is now protected from light when the back of the camera is opened, next. To open the camera back, pull the crank knob gently up and away from the top of the camera. The back door will open and when the knob is fully extended, *** will be possible to remove the film canister from the camera body. You should do this in subdued light if possible - and return the film canister into the original protective container if available - otherwise, place in a light tight box, bag, etc.
As a general rule it is right hand threads on curved shaft trimmers and left hand threads on straight shaft trimmers. The major exception is on homelite manufactured units. On Homelite units the black bump knob is right hand and the red bump knob is left hand
Grasp the outer portion of the cutting head in your left hand and turn the inner knob with your right. Depending on model, some bump knobs are threaded and some are post and notch. Use a little spray like wd40 to loosen the mechanism. It may take a firm hand, but the two will separate so that you can reload the line. Consider reloading with the .095 five sided line. It cuts much easier than the round line.
They usually have a hex-head bolt cast inside the plastic knob, the head starts spinning inside. You might be able to loosen the knob by gripping it with Vice-Grips really tight, then get a new knob. Should be right-hand thread.