Top drawer will not start wash cycle, bottom drawer fine

Try to feel the temperature of water inside the dishwasher. If it is normal room temperature for the hot wash cycles then it is likely the heater is faulty.
It is not easy to replace unless you have good experience with repairing dishwashers.

Hi,
You may have clogged pump to the drawer. open drawer, lay on your back under the dish drawer, removed the black cover (3 screws) remove 2 screws to the pump and allow the water to drain out into a bucket or bowl. make sure the pump can turn easy. Reassemble and test unit again. If fails, replace pump.
Pump
I hope this helps, good luck

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Please confirm if the F1 on top drawer shows up immediately you press the Start button or part through a wash cycle? What happens when you turn off the power and back on.

You may want to check up if the water collects in the bottom drawer when the top drawer is in wash cycle (ie, taking water from the inlet) or during the drain cycle when it is draining water out. Leave the bottom drawer open and check while the top drawer is running.

ok, the machine flooded and the water has leaked into the bottom of the machine, 1st turn off the machine at the power point. 2nd- open the top drawer and remove the suds from it. 3rd. open the bottom drawer and look under it to the bottom of the cabinet . that is where the water will be. use a torch if you have to. now you need to dry the water up. you can do this with a hair dryer or a fan heater. the reason the machine is flashing F1 is because the water has triggered the flood switch and you need to dry up that water. please reply 4 more help.once dryed F1 will disappear. please make sure all the suds are removed from the top drawer. good luck

One drawer leaks can cause this problem. If you don't fix it. One day it will turn on the pumps from both units without any one touching them since the floor sensor at the bottom housing detects water and it will run for ever until you unplug the power cord. This dishwasher is a state of art in design and replacing parts is very simple once a person has enough understanding of its mechanism. If the tech fail to find the problem then he is not qualified to touch this dishwasher. When there is a leak, it is a problem with the lid seal from the top not closing down tightly so during the wash cycle, water shoot up and leaks through the top opening then collecting on the bottom housing of each unit. Let say the top draw is leak, so the bottom housing of top draw if full of water then it overflows to the bottom drawer unit then the floor. Here is the idea of how it happens. The top lid is pulled down by 2 actuators from both sides at first start. That is why you can hear the motor noise turning on at the beginning of the wash cycle. That is the noise from the actuators. If the actuators are bad. only one side works then the lid can not be sealed properly there is a leak. If bothe of actuators are week the gear worn out so they can not hold the lid down during the wash cycle then it can cause a leak. You can pull each tube out and access from the left side at the bottom to touch the bottom housing to fell the wetness. Put in tower to dry them out. If there is a weteness from the bottom housing upper tube it doesn't mean the bottom drawers is leaking. It is wet just because the top is leaking. However you have to dry the bottom in order to continue use the bottom dryer. If you ignore my advice then your circuit board at the bottom housing of lower drawer will be damaged and it is not cheap. With the information that I provided you can interview a tech claiming know about the this type of dishwasher before letting him coming into your house. Good luck.

Fisher and Paykel design a air gap kit to prevent the water back flowing to the other while one is running. it really works and worth of your money. You need to change the lid seal and a pair of actuators from the top drawer. Because of the leak then the floor switch activated not allowing a complete cycle. Need to dry out the wetness from the bottom housing of both top and lower drawers by pulling the tubes out and accessing from the left side with small tower until it completely dry. Here is a link to buy air gap kit http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/product/WT50/WT50-Dual-Air-Gap-Kit/

You have a leak due to the Lid seal leak.
1- Unplug the power, then pull out top draw half way and
2-Touch the bottom top housing ( not bottom top draw) you will feel it wet. Try to dry it by stick in a towel.
3- Repeat the same for the bottom drawer.
After drying out, wait for at least 1 day so the sensor can be dried out then plug in the Power, you will be fine.
4- Contact me for the next step.

I suggest pressing the keylock and power button together, hold for 5 secs, the display will change orange, the display should read HP if it says LP, press the start button to make display read HP.Then press power button to store. You will need to manually removed the water from the machine before restarting

on the hinge slide there is a micro switch the draw needs to be removed to locate it.