Amp goes into protect when turned up to higher volumes
^ I've checked everything, the battery mount and fuse was replaced on the power cord, I relocated my ground, rewired the sub, got a new battery (i needed one), nothing seems to fix it. Would a cap fix the problem or do i have to tear into and repair the amp?
Re: amp goes into protect when turned up to higher...
Check the ohm load on your speakers, you might have to low of an ohm and the amp is going into overcurrent protection mode, with the amp off use a multi meter at the speaker terminal with the speaker conected, should read 3 to 4 ohms, if it is lower then thats the issue, you also could have a short on one of the speaker wires, look for am=ny wire pinched in the door jamb or on the speakers, sometimes the terminals are close to metal in the door and you wont notice it. give it a try.
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When you've got good volume, try unplugging the speakers (only for a very short time) to see if that whining noise is still there or if it's stopped. We're trying to see if the whining is related to the low volume and "protect" or if it's only coincidental.
Try unplugging all the cables (except the power cord). Turn the player on & off several times & see if that whining noise acts the same. Also see if the player goes into "protect". What we're trying to do here is see if it NEVER goes into "protect" with the cables unplugged.
Last... try to get it to start & run without going into "protect", with all the cables unplugged (except power). Plug the cables in, one at a time, and see if plugging one of the cables in forces it into "protect". If so, there's something wrong with that cable or whatever's on the other end of that cable. Unplug it again & restart the player - no "protect"? Wait a little while, plug the cable in. "Protect"? Check the other end of that cable.
If it goes into "protect" with nothing plugged in except the power, then the player is probably a write-off, ready to be replaced (it's not very often that DVD players are worth repairing these days).
If it just started, you have an equipment or wiring problem. Check the wires first, that's easy. Otherwise, the amp may be bad, check the warranty if its new. Maybe you can get a replacement.
If it's always happened, some cars have an factory amp for the rear factory speakers hidden in the wiring. Sometimes between body panels. If you didn't bypass that, you're more than likely blowing out the new amp with too much power causing it to shut itself down. (protected mode or keep blowing fuses) Could be a blown speaker, bad ground, internal damage, RCA cable problem, the list goes on and on. Find out the preoutput voltage of your headunit and set the gain to what that is and nothing else LEAVE IT THERE, the gain isnt a volume knob for your amp its to get the amp and the radio on the same page (i.e. radios at 50% volume and so is the amp) if you turn it down too low that will make the amp very sensitive to volume adjustments and your amp will be at 100% while the raidos at like 50 or 75% and once you go past the 50 or 75 on the radio the amps going to keep trying to play higher even though its already maxing out which is going to cause it to clip and cause distortion untill it goes into protect mode. Hope this was helpfull to some one
You seem to have the answers to your question. I would just resolder the connections anyway without checking. If it solves the problem you have saved yourself a lot of money. If it doesn't follow the other steps in order of cheapness!
A fuse breaker or resetting electronic componet device attaced to the audio receiver protects the amp & speakers for destruction! The quality of the amp ,spkers& spks. wires help on choosing for protection shut downs! Of course at 10 volume you risk all of the amp in the receiver , buy a higher quality brand reciever ,intergrated amp, single amp . BE CAREFUL AT THE HIGHER VOLUME RATINGS YOU RISK HEARING DAMAGE! FOR REAL!
yes make sure there both connected properly, check the fuses, the protection light usualy comes on when there is too much power and the amp protects itself from blowing
Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty. Vibe is mediocre. Time to invest in an old school Lanzar
Opti Drive amp.
.A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you.
No such thing as too much power unless you have a faulty alternator/voltage regulator. The hundred amp fuse at the battery is better than none but I would replace it with a 50 Amp, that fuse is really only protecting the power wire from grounding out and burning.
The gains are irrelevant, all they do is attenuate the input. Set them so you cant hear any amp hiss or noise on quiet passages of music or between tracks.
Make sure your not starving the amp for power. Start at the battery connections and work your way back to the amp, inspect all connections for corrosion and make sure they are tight. Check the ground wire . It is just as important as the power wire!! Try to ground it as close to the amp as practical, scrape off the paint down to the metal use a oversize screw with a star lock washer and a ring terminal. Make sure that your power wire and ground are at least 8 gauge.
Next on the list is your speakers and related wiring, check to make sure that your impedence is not too low for the amps rating. and that the wiring is correct and at least 16 gauge, 12 is better. . You can check the speakers impedance with a Ohmmeter, it wont be exact but it should be close +/- .5 Ohm If you are bridging, make sure the speakers are wired in parallel + with+ and - with - .check the amps rating and bridging configuration, it's normally left positive, right negative, but check!
Having done all the above, and you still have a problem only two possibility's left, Defective speakers or the amp. Check with a qualified installer, buy him lunch, you'll get good advice forever. I hope it helps. Regards Paul
The amplifier probably has shorted output transistors.
Disconnect the speakers and RCA cables. Replace the fuses with two 10 amp fuses or a single 20 amp fuse. If the amp blows the fuse when it powers up, the outputs are almost certainly the problem. Don't try it with the two 30 amp fuses. The smaller fuses will provide more protection for the power supply. If the amp powers up with the smaller fuses and they don't blow, check the speakers and the wiring (for shorts to ground or shorts between wires).
I just picked up a non working AVR 900, there are a total of 4 fuses inside the unit: 2 on the protect board, 6.3A and 8A, and 2 in the middle near the front.
I was told by Denon the following might reset the microprocessor.
1) unplug unit
2) press and hold tuner and video select on front panel
3) plug in while holding buttons
Unit display should flash until you let go of buttons.
Unit stays on you should be ok/ goes back to red- service
They also said:
There are 3 types of protection that will commonly occur with our receivers. This is designed to protect the unit from permanent damage.
1) Thermal Protect = When the unit overheats this will occur, usually if there is not enough air space above and around the unit. There cannot be anything directly on top of the unit and there must be at least 4 inches of airspace above the unit.
2) Overload Protect = Most commonly occurs when a strand or more of copper speaker wire is not securely connected to the speaker terminal and is touching the chassis of the receiver. If the volume is turned higher than 85% this may also occur. If you need to turn the volume higher than this point to get the level you want, you need a more powerful amp.
3) DC Protect = When an amplifier fails this will occur. This will protect dc current from damaging the speakers. When this happens the unit will need to be serviced.
I had a bad 6.3A fuse ? I replaced it and tried to reset. The microprocessor would not reset. I had the exact same results you had.
The chip on the back side of the front IC board was smoking.
Before I attempted the reset I asked Denon if it was worth sending in for repair. The answer was "NO"
BC
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