Frigidaire 5.8 Cu. Ft. Electric Dryer Model#: GLEQ2152EE runs 30 minutes quits shows power failure and trips the breaker

First check the breakers at your house's breaker box. A tripped breaker will be a little bit away from on. Push it all the way off, and then back on. If it trips again, call an electrician.

what is the model number is then we can get you fixed then okay???

Hello Scott Joseph Brandt - Since you have already replaced the thermal limiter check your breaker or fuses. Some dryers are run by two separate fuses, one for power and one for heat-ours is. If it is not the power source more than likely the issue lies with your heating coil.

That to me sound like bad front glides. I recently worked on a Westinghouse dry like your with more troubles than a squirrel on an 8 lane highway. That video and more is on my Frigidaire dryer repair page

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

you could simply have a weak breaker and the load required for the machine is tripping it, have someone replace the breaker in the service panel, and you should be ok, ( while they are there, have them check the actual receptacle for loose or bad wiring

Sounds like an overheat code tripped due to obstruction in the exhaust. There is also a vent tube on the bottom of the dryer that could be loose.

Hello there:
It blows fuses or trips the circuit breaker Electric dryers use 220 volts or two power lines of 110 volts each. Some components in the dryer need only 110 volts; the heating element requires 220 volts. So it's possible for one part of the dryer to be fine and another part to have a short circuit. Short circuits can be caused by the heating element, the main power cord, or any other part of the internal wiring. To decide where the problem lies, unplug the dryer, then:It could be also wired backwardes so make sure to have this checked'

If the circuit breakers or fuses remain on and/or intact when the dryer is unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the dryer. Contact a qualified appliance repair technician. If the circuit breaker trips or the fuse blows when the dryer is unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the house wiring, fuse box, or circuit box.

It would help to know what size breaker is feeding this dryer. If it is a two pole 30 amp, then I would first replace the breaker and see if the problem continues. I would check the name plate ratings of the dryer, should be rated at 229 volts and 30 amps. If it continues to trip the breaker, then I would be looking at the heaters in the dryer as the source of the fault,

Please vote !

Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Hi Matt
I'm not sure that swapping out the breakers to higher rated ones will give you a solution so I'll throw in 2 cents to see if my advice holds true. Let's start by asking this. Is the appliance "rated" at 220 volts at 30 amps per leg. I assume this from your post as to what it has been rated. Next - How long is the "run" of wire from the junction box to the outlet where the appliance plugs in? This usually does not matter in most households but if the run is of significant length it may need a larger gage wire to support the current draw of the appliance. Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, are the lugs and wire connectors tight at the outlet, the plug, and the breaker box. A loose connection will ramp up the current fast. This is assuming the first two items were met. Tell me if any of this helps and we'll work it out from there.
Thanks.
Len