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Range mgr 5745 sealed burner

Does the sealed burner twist off? Ceramic ignitor is cracked, sparks weakly, but not from the wire tip. Mine is a mgr 5745

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Re: range mgr 5745 sealed burner

Yes the burner does twist off. You must turn it counter clockwise about 1/4 of a turn. These can be stuburn at times so what you might want to do is strike it sharply down with the heal of your hand first then give it a twist. this seems to help.

Posted on Nov 18, 2007

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On the oven, it is usually attached to the back center of the burner under the over floor which can usually be removed. If you are asking about the top burners, the spark tip is right next to each top burner. The spark module that supplies the spark is usually on the range back, sometimes in the control panel area or just below it under a cover plate or box. Most ovens these days use a glow bar ignitor for the oven that glows red hot the complete time the oven burner is on. Looks like black ceramic and is very brittle if hit too hard.

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Range: Gas burner won't spark or ignite A surface burner igniter switch and a spark module activate the spark electrode when a burner is turned to the "Lite" position on a gas range's cooktop. If the surface burner switch, spark module or wiring in that circuit fails, the spark electrode won't work, and as a result the gas burner won't light. If those components work but the electrode won't spark, the problem could be that the spark electrode is coated with spilled food of is bent or broken. In addition, the electrode won't spark or ignite the burner properly if the ceramic insulation sleeve below the tip of the electrode is cracked or broken. If the gas burner isn't lighting, these repairs may help.
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See all articles These repairs may help solve your problem:

Replace the spark igniter electrode

1396454293470.jpg The spark igniter electrode-also called the surface burner igniter-is an insulated electrode that provides an ignition spark to light a surface gas burner. It sparks and makes a ticking sound when the burner switch is turned to the Lite position. Replace the spark ignition electrode if it fails to spark or if the ceramic insulation sleeve is cracked or chipped. How to Replace a Spark Igniter Electrode in a Gas Range Find This Part

Replace the surface spark module

1377098014986.jpg The surface spark module is in the ignition circuit for the gas surface burners. When a surface burner control knob is turned to the "Lite" position, it provides voltage to the spark electrodes on the gas surface burners. If the surface spark module fails to provide the electrodes with voltage, then it should be replaced. Find This Part

Replace the spark igniter switch

1396454315355.jpg The igniter switch is an electrical switch on the stem of the gas surface burner control valve. This switch completes a circuit to the surface burner spark module, causing the burner igniters to spark when the burner switch is turned to the Lite position. Replace the burner igniter switch if the burners don't spark when you turn the burner control knob to the Lite position or if igniters spark constantly even when the burner knobs are in the Off position.

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The gap between the burner and the spark tip may be obstructed. When I clean mine none of them work until they all dry completely.

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I havef a KitchenAid Gas Range Model KGSS907... and one of the ignitors on one of the burners is not sparking. I tried to take the stove top off to check the wire to the ignitor but don't see how to...


Typically the burner come off by removing the burner caps and inside the burners are 2 screws that hold the burner base to the top..yes you could swap igniters on all burners they will be the same. If by swapping the igniters it still doesnt work the things that could be the problem are;

the spark module espically if the igniter that doesnt work on that burner suddendly work on a different burner

the spark switch on the gas valve for that burner..typically all burners spark when one it turned on but the only one that lights is one that has gas flow to turning on a different burner first and leave it set to light setting by turning on the one that doesnt light it will light if that spark switch is the problem

of course a cracked igniter

a broken wire from the spark module to that igniter taht doesnt work..its not that uncommon that the insulation will sometimes wear off a wire off so the electric that should be going from the spark module to the igniter is instead being grounded by that wire touching the metal on the frame uninsulated

Good luck,i hope i have been able to help you fix your range,

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How do I access a spark ignitor on a Viking gas

I am assuming your referring to the stove top burner ignitor. Well - I can only say on my Viking 48 inch - it was located at top RHS of the stove on the 'back wall'. I was advised by a 'tech' that it would be located at the back of my stove (ie he would have to pull out the built in unit and would cost me 500$). In fact I replaced the unit in 30 minutes ... I removed the two RHS burners (one screw each), disconnected ignitor wires, removed the bracket holding the burners (one screw), followed ignitor wires to silver box covering the ignitor unit (2 screws), opened it & replaced ignitor. Forgot to say - 1st thing I did was turn off power & gas to the range. Of course you need to ensure it is the correct one for your stove. The ignitor you remove should have a manufacturer part number on it. No calibration required on mine - a sealed electronic unit. Probably about 10 wires that need to be R&R'ed - they are on with reuseable fasteners.

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Viking oven not heating past 150 degrees

My viking oven had same issue - I needed to replace the ceramic ignitors (if ignitors fail to heat up properly the gas valve remains partially closed). Apparently they are intended to be replaced every 3-5 years. Also inspect and clean the oven burners - mine had corroded somewhat and prevented the flame from 'moving' to the opposite side - ie only half the burner was lighting. If you are handy the ignitors are very easy to replace - one screw, two wires each.

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Igniter wont stop firing

Make sure that the small burner holes near the ignitor are not clogged. if no flame is visibly touching the ignitor, then the ignitor will not sense that it is lit. The fact that it seems to take longer to light than normal leads me to this as well.

If there is good flame contact with the ignitor, then sometimes it will not sense the flame if you had a boilover and water got down between the wire and the ceramic body. This can happen with oil as well. Removing the ignitor (carefully! if you crack it, it will "leak" its spark and not work properly), cleaning it and letting it thoroughly dry will help. Most of the time I just leave the burner on and the clicking will stop after about a minute when the whole assembly heats up and drys out.

If all that checks out, then the ignition module is bad. Mine went out after 6 years use. They are available online (I bought mine from a Viking parts store...surprisingly). Replacement is fairly easy. Turn off the power to the stove. Remove the screws that hold the burner knob/oven knob faceplate to the range (Two are only accessed by opening the oven door, the rest are tucked up at the top of the faceplate and under the top-front lip of the range) The ignition module has many wires attached and they are easy to remove. MAKE SURE YOU ATTATCH THE WIRES TO THE NEW MODULE IN EXACTLY THE SAME SPOTS ON THE NEW IGNITOR. That includes the same ignitor wires that are all colored the same.

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Ralph, you need to look at the electrodes at the burners. They might be cracked or dirty. It's very hard to tell sometimes when they are cracked. The burner cap itself has to have a good ground and the wires going to the electrode should be on tight. You can eliminate the spark module by switching the right and left side burner wires at the module. Once you do that, if the right side works ok, but now the left doesn't, you can be pretty sure it's the back.

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