Kitchenaid Dishwasher not cycling properly?

SOURCE: KUDS24SEB3 - can't start cycle properly

I just had the same problem. I finally pressed Rinse Only and it started to fill. Without canceling, I depressed Normal, and it seems to be going through the proper cycle now.

SOURCE: KitchenAid Dishwasher Leaking from under Door

I had a similar problem with a KUDM25SHWH1 dishwasher. Rubber seal looked fine. I found an incredible tip on another fixi it site. One possible problem iss the pump cover screws may have worked loose and is squirting water directly on the door seal. Man that was it! I saw a couple of looses screws and a small portion of the pump cover gasket showing. I loosened the pump top, reset the gasket tightened it all down...no leaks! The pump I refer to is located directly below the spray arm inside the washer. Easy to get to. Another tip was to look for a split sspray arrm that may spray water directly into the door seal.

SOURCE: KitchenAid Dishwasher Door Pops open during cycle

The problem seems to be the loosening of the screws that hold the interior stainless steel skin to the door frame--not the latch.

With the door in the open position you should find a total of twelve screws (5 on each side and 2 on top at each side of the latch). The screws have a particular type of head which may require a trip to the hardware (its a $1,000 dishwasher take the time to get the right screwdriver). They are called TORX screws the size on my dishwasher was a T 15. These type of screw heads were designed to fit automated torque drivers at the factory that set the screws to the proper tension. So some care should be given when you retighten them. Turn until the screw is snug and there no movement of the inner door skin but don't over tighten. Giving it that extra 1/4 turn can be enough to strip the screw out and create a bigger problem.

Yes--you shouldn't have to be doing this to a KitchenAid appliance that cost this much--but I suspect that this will become a feature of periodic maintenance. The heating and cooling generates enough movement that overtime these screws work themselves out. My wife who was the once to make the right diagnosis noticed that the screws at the bottom were almost entirely out.

SOURCE: After dishwasher was in cycle, I returned to

The symptoms you describe, sounds like it could be caused by a worn door seal. Over time, these seals compress to the point where they no longer seal correctly, or food particles and grime get caught between the door and seal and leave small air gaps.

The silverware tray (if located along the left or right side) can also cause damage to the door seal as utensils get caught on the seal surface as you roll the lower rack in and out of the tub. As water splashes up against the inner door facing it rolls out the bottom of the door, or down along the sides instead of staying in the tub.

Some other items that can contribute to leaking are:

1. A dishwasher that is not level, which causes the door not to seal properly.

2. The inner door panel being warped causing the door facing not to be even for the gasket to seat properly.

3, Dish placement. If you place bowls, serving trays and large tumblers in the front row of the bottom rack on some dishwashers it can contribute to water being deflected over the front edge of the tub and out the bottom of the door (Believe it or not, I've seen it happen).

NOTE: Most dishwashers do not have a seal across the front lip of the tub. That's why it's important to have a good door seal and to load it properly.

If you've loaded the dishwasher properly and confirmed it is level (front to back and side to side), then here are your options:

1. Replace the inner door panel at a cost of over $100.

2. Replace the door seal at a cost of about $35-$40.

If you need parts, they can be purchased from any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

I have found these to be the cheapest and most reliable sites to order parts from. Shop all of them for the best price.

NOTE: The inner door panel is usually listed under the Door Parts section. The tub gasket will be listed under the Tub Parts section.
I would pursue the cheaper option, first. Its also the much simpler option. To replace the door seal, follow these steps:

1. Pull the old door seal from the groove around the wash tub facing. Take note of which surface area of the gasket is inserted in the groove and which surface is facing the door. It may not seal properly if you install the gasket the wrong way.

2. Clean the area really well to ensure there are no food debris or soap deposits. Also clean the inner door area where the door meets the gasket. You need a clean surface for the best results.

3. Locate the center mark of the new gasket. This will be a small paint spot or small groove on the gasket (this surface is the side of the gasket that will be inserted in the groove around the tub facing). If there is no center mark, fold the gasket in half and mark the location with some chalk, or hold with your fingers.

4. Locate the top center part of the wash tub facing and align the center mark of the door gasket at that point. Begin pushing the gasket into the groove with your hands and work your way around and down along each side.

5. Make sure the gasket is inserted all the way around the tub facing to the point where it meets the wash tub bottom. You can pull the gasket out and readjust as necessary.

This repair should take you about 30 minutes or less to complete. Its simple and requires no tools. The door will be tough the shut for a while until the gasket compresses and takes the door shape. Do not slam the door if it becomes difficult to shut. Simply close the door and the push firmly at the point just above the door latch until the latch clicks. Slamming the door can damage the control panel components, the door latch and/or the hinges.

If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please post back with a complete model number so that I may be able to provide you with better service. hope this helps you.

SOURCE: I click on normal cycle and press start and then it doesnt turn o

Could be one of about 7 different things. Watch this Whirlpool video for instruction. http://www.mediafire.com/?42mhcghit1y