Where is the lid switch - Maytag Bravos MTW6600T Top Load Washer

The rear compartment lid release system consists of the following components:
• Body control module (BCM)
• Folding top cover actuator
• GMLAN serial data link
• Keyless entry transmitter
• Rear compartment lid ajar switch
• Rear compartment lid release actuator
• Rear compartment lid release switch
• Remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR)
• Trunk fuses
• Trunk release relay

Rear Compartment Lid Release System Operation
The rear compartment lid can be released by operating the rear compartment lid release switch or pressing the rear compartment lid release button on the keyless entry transmitter. When the rear compartment lid release switch is operated, the rear compartment lid release switch signal circuit to the body control module (BCM) is switched to ground. The BCM receives the rear compartment lid release switch input and applies ground to the trunk release relay control circuit. This energizes the trunk release relay coil, closing the switch side contacts, allowing battery voltage to be applied to the rear compartment lid release actuator and folding top cover actuator, releasing the buttresses and opening the rear compartment lid. Ground for the rear compartment lid release switch is provided at G300. The rear compartment lid ajar switch, rear compartment lid release actuator, and folding top cover actuator are provided ground at G301. The rear compartment lid will not release until the vehicle speed is zero and in park.

Do you know what DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes are ?
DTC B3265 01 : Trunk Relay Output Short to Battery
DTC B3265 06 : Trunk Relay Output Short to Ground or Open

Do you know what a relay is an how it works ? TRUNK release relay located in the underhood fuse / relay box.
VEHICLE RELAYS Operation Diagnosis

Sounds like your lid safety switch is bad. Replace the switch. If this is a unit with a hidden lid switch, left rear, you may only need tighten your lid hinge screws.

this could be a timer problem, or the cold water may be shut off.....if it is advancing to the rinse point but not filling, then there may be a problem with the fill valve also. You may want to check the lid switch too, just to be sure it is making contact.From what you are describing it sounds like the problem with your washer could either be the lid switch or no cold water. However there are a number of other possibilities. I would recommend checking the lid switch first. Open the lid & you should see the lid switch actuator mounted on the lid. This is the probe that pushes in on the lid switch as you close the washer lid. Next you can check the lid switch. The lid switch is hidden under the top of the washer. You will see a small opening where the plunger comes down at & activates the lid switch. You should hear the switch click as the lid is being closed. You can also use a small non-metallic probe to push in on the lid switch. If the lid switch is not responding, you will need to replace the lid switch.Next you will need to check & make sure the cold water is turned on. You may want to turn the water off & take the cold water fill hose off of the back of the washer. Use a bucket & turn the water back on to check the incoming water pressure. If the water pressure checks good & the washer is not filling for rinse, you will need to replace the water valve.If you have good cold water supply & the lid switch checks okay you will need to access the inside of the machine to make more checks. Be sure to disconnect electrical power before attempting any repairs. Please resubmit your question if you need further assistance.Good Luck

The machine control detected that the lid switch is not functioning properly. Raise the top part of the washer to gain access to the lid switch.

Disconnect the machine from the power source. Gently pry the emblem from the front of the machine and remove the T20 torx screw hidden behind it. Slide the top of the washer forward and raise its front. Prop it up high enough to allow easy access to the lid switch.

The lid switch is activated by an actuator (part number 19119) mounted on a hinge. It will not work properly if the actuator is damaged.

Check the operation of the lid switch using a multimeter. Disconnect the lid switch wiring harness and connect the test leads of the multimeter (set to X1 or ohm) to the terminals of the lid switch and activate it. The multimeter should read zero ohms while the lid switch is activated and open when deactivated.

Replace the lid switch if it is broken or if it fails the test above. Remove the lid switch mounting screw and install the new lid switch. Reconnect the wiring harness and slide the top of the washer back into position. Reinstall the T20 torx screw and the emblem.

lid switch

Good day,
Common problem, Change the switch, and make sure if it is the model with a plunger for the switch mounted on the lid, that that be replaced as well.

Thank you for using FixYa

You may can slightly bent the part the lid contacts so it will be depressed further thereby making the switch. If that doesn't work then you will need to replace the switch.

Check the lid switch. The lid switch will be located on the machine top where the lid closes. It may be a plunger on the lid that activates the switch or a white plastic flat piece where the lids sets. Either scenario can be checked by jumping out the lid switch. Disconnect the power. Lift the lid. Use alligator clips to connect the two terminals. Plug in the machine. Select spin. If, the machine operates you have a bad lid switch.

This is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. If your model number is correct, the lid switch for your washer is located under the right hand side of the washer casing along the wash tub rim. The switch is activated by a small plastic piece on the washer lid (called a "lid strike") through a small hole. The switch contacts close when you shut the lid. In many cases, the lid switch either comes loose, or the lid strike breaks off. In both cases, the washer will exhibit the symptoms you describe. Open and close the washer lid and listen for a distinctive "clicking" sound as the switch contacts close. If you cannot hear the switch, make sure the lid strike is intact and the mounting screws for the lid switch (located around the wash tub opening on the casing) are tight. Sometimes, all it takes is to tighten the lid switch screws to realign it with the lid strike. If the switch is defective, or the strike is missing, parts can be ordered on line at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number, which can be found on a nameplate under the washer lid. The lid switch and lid strike will be listed under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. Other sites that offer competitive pricing are repairclinic.com and appliancepartspros.com. If you require instructions on how to replace the switch, you may use the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If you have questions, or if the diagnosis is incorrect, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

F3 means lid switch failure. Heres what the service manual for your washer says about the failure.
Flashes if the lid is NOT opened after the cycle was completed. The
electronic control board must detect that PAUSE/CANCEL was
pressed during a cycle or the lid was opened at least once at the end
of any cycle. This is continually tested to ensure proper lid switch
operation. If “F 3” is flashing, check continuity of the lid switch.
• With the lid closed, lid switch contacts should be closed.
• With the lid open, lid switch contacts should be open.
• If the lid switch has failed, replace it.
• If the lid switch is good, replace the electronic control board.