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Does the plastic piece stay inside of the spout when attaching it to the converter? we are attaching it with galvanized piping, then do you just put the 1/2 '' water line inside that plastic piece? won't the water pressure when turned on shoot that spout out?

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There is an allen key or a screw in the slot under the spout on the plastic piece.this is what keeps the spout from shooting off the pipe.

Posted on Jul 24, 2009


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The pipe going from the main valve to the tub spout(not the sprayer above)needs to be a full 1/2" pipe if you used a pex 1/2" to the tub spout-the inside is usually smaller and causes it to back pressure and make water release thru the sprayer above-needs to be installed with a full 1/2" ID PIPE-AND DONT USE GALVANIZED

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There is loose wall mount tub filler. How can I tight it?

Most tub spout are pretty covers for the generic ugly pipes that deliver the water from the wall water plumbing into the tub area. Speaking for this water pipe it's either going to be copper or galvanized iron pipe. The pipe that you see sticking out of the wall is rather short. It ends just inside the wall usually at a 90 degree elbow which in turn is connected to a pipe and other things inside the wall cavity. If this short pipe stub is loose so you can move it in and out of the wall hole some, the reason is that the plumbing pipes inside the wall are not tied down to the wall studs properly.
If the backside of the wall can be opened by cutting out a section of sheetrock in the same location as where the spout pipe is located, you can expose the inside wall plumbing and tie in the wall pipes securely to the wall framing. Afterwards, you need to seal up the sheetrock hole you created.
In some cases this is not possible. When that is the case, your fix is spotty at best. You can use a caulking that becomes rock hard when cured around the pipe nipple as it comes through the wall hole. Hopefully the hard caulking will provide enough tightness tying the pipe to the wall material to help stop the movement. Install the caulking so it is underneath the pretty tub spout when you reinstall it over the generic pipe. Make sure you do not have this caulking involved with the pretty spout so if you need to remove it again, it won't be locked in by the hardening caulk.

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I want to put another water line onto an existing 3/4 galv. pipe. To put a "T" in the middle will I have to weld it or is there left and right threads so you can tighten the middle pipe turning in one...

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Tub spout is calcified onto pipe and will not twist. i don't want to ruin pipes , how do i get it off?

First make sure you have a thread type spout. Look on the underside of spout for a set screw. If one is not found then you have a threaded spout. If you have set screws then it is a friction spout loosen set screw and twist/pull spout. A couple things you can try to loosen the calcium build up. Use a calcium buildup cleaner (may or may not be able to reach area) you can also try rapping on spout with rubber mallet calcium is hard and this might break it up (cause fractures in the calcium) then take a no mark wrench (simuliar to what you take oil filters off with) and turn spout counter clockwise. It may be hard but it should come off. If the spout pipe is galvanized it may come off inside the wall before it comes off of the spout. No worries just keep turning until off. Once off you can work on the spout end then reinstall. Make sure when you reinstall you place teflon on the thread ends. Hope this helps, thanks for using FIXYA. Good luck and have a great day. Jeff

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Normally, tub spouts are screwed onto 1/2" NPT galvanized pipe. I was unable to pull the spec for your particular tub filler, but I haven't found one yet that doesn't. I don't know why the builder didn't rough it in this way, but it will have to be fixed because there isn't any way to use anything but a threaded fixture (your other options are really only compression or soldered/sweated and you don't have the space behind the tub filler to do either of these). There should be a fitting in the wall (attached to a stud) that converts from the 1/2" copper pipe to 1/2" NPT galvanized. This piece needs to be added behind the wall so that you can attach your tub filler.

About the gap, it's generally a good idea to leave space around the pipe anyway so that minor temperature or humidity changes in the wall don't put stress on your plumbing and cause it to crack over time. That's one of the reasons why tub fillers are flared at the back (so that it covers the gap).

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The rough plate goes on inside or outside of green board? Also can u use pex for the downspout for tub it seems to restrict flow and sends water to the shower...

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American Standard Cadet model 3275 - Plastic piece inside of pipe

Yes, there is a non-replaceable plastic restrictor device screwed into the tub spout outlet of the faucet body. It's purpose is to force the flow down to the spout for when the spout diverter is not closed. It keep water from rcoming out of the shower head when the tub spout is also discharging.

This is all fine and dandy where the water supply is clean without sediment. A co-worker of mine had one of these and old galvanized piping. After 3 years, it clogged up. She got a 'deal' from a handyman plumber to replace with an identical faucet. She will have the problem again. If she had spent the money to fix it right, she would have had a single handle mixing valve put in. If it clogs, you can just pull the cartidge from the body, clean it and put it back in. Now she will have to cut into the wall again, get the plumber to replace the 2 handled unit and patch the wall again.

Or, she could have the plumber drill out/remove the restrictor but then she might get water out of both outlets at the same time....."pay me know or pay me later"....repalcing the mixing valve with a scald prevention single handle valve (with remodel plate) is the BEST long term solution.

Fred Grable
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1 Answer

Shower spout

There is a threaded stem that passes through the spout and attaches to the white plastic diveter valve. If you are starting from scratch (everything apart), you can put it back together in this order:
1) Place the white plastic diverter inside the spout. the circular side with the black round washer should face the the wall side of the shower (mating up against the threads for the water pipe).
2) The stem can now be inserted from the top and into the notched section of the white plastic diverter valve. The threaded end of the stem shoud be outside of the spout (from the top side).
3) A round black washer fits over the threads. It should sit right where the threads end. Dont push it all the way on to the unthreaded portion of the stem.
4) Screw the threaded knob onto the threads.

Should be ready to install now. Including the spout itself, there are 5 parts and are configured in this order from top to bottom.
1) Female threaded knob (the knob for operating the spout)
2) Threaded stem (threads on top)
3) Round black washer
4) Spout
5) Whit plastic diverter valve.

Mine leaks when I turn on the shower, thus reducing shower pressure. I looks like a poor design to me. The stem is not a tight fit in the spout and this allows the diverter to "wobble". The washer on the diverter valve does not seat tightly and allows water to leak out the tub spout when showering. I would replace the spout.

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Leaks at the hot water spout during coffee brew

I had the same problem. I ended up taking the coffee machine apart and found that the reason coffee trickles out around the hot water spout is that the two coffee nozzles were partially plugged. Since I Had parts of the coffee machine apart I was able to clean it easily. It may also be possible to clean the assembly using a pick of some sort and clean out the holes of the two normal coffee spouts. Inside it is just a open cavity so gentle poking around and using some steaming hot water may do the trick.
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