Question about DeLonghi EO1251 Oven
You can request a manual from the manufacturer or you can get one online in Delonghi website by quoting the model and serial # of the product.
Posted on Oct 14, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Faulty bake or broil element
The solution to this problem depends on whether the oven is electric or gas. Electric oven. If your electric oven's bake or broil element isn't working properly, either it isn't receiving electric power or the element or the oven control may need to be replaced. In many cases, the wiring to the elements can be burnt or broken. 1) Be sure the controls are set on the proper setting. 2) Be sure the stove is plugged in and/or check the circuit breaker or fuse that serves that circuit. 3) Call an appliance repairperson or replace the element yourself as follows. 4) Unplug the oven and let any hot parts cool. 5) Unscrew the mounting screws that secure the element bracket to the oven and pull out the element far enough to access its terminals. Note which wires are attached to each of the terminals, then disconnect the wires (pull off the wire clips or unscrew the wires). 6) Take the element to a parts dealer, along with your oven's model and serial number, and buy a replacement (preferably the manufacturer's suggested replacement part). 7) Reverse the process to reinstall. Gas oven. When a gas oven doesn't get hot, it generally means that it isn't receiving gas, the gas valve isn't distributing gas to the oven burner, or the ignition system -- either an electronic ignition or pilot light -- isn't working properly. A common problem with ovens that have a pilot light is that the pilot light has gone out. NOTE: Gas ranges younger than 10 years old have a sophisticated fault code system that governs their ignition. Always call an approved warranty service provider to handle problems with these ranges. Here's how to troubleshoot your range: 1) Be sure the controls are set on the proper setting. 2) Be sure the stove is plugged in and/or check the circuit breaker or fuse that serves that circuit. 3) Check the gas valve to be sure the gas supply is turned on (also make sure the house's main gas valve is turned on). 4) On a stove with a pilot light, make sure the pilot light is burning. If it isn't, re-light as discussed HERE, or in your owner's manual. 5) Adjust the pilot flame (older stoves only). 6) Turn off the gas and unplug the stove (or turn off its circuit at the electrical panel). 7) Clean out the oven burner ports, using a stiff wire. 8) Plug in the stove (or turn on its circuit) and turn the gas back on. Re-light the pilot (if it has one). 9) If the oven still doesn't work, call an appliance repairperson.
Posted on Jan 18, 2006
I always unplug oven or turn off power make sure though it will bite ya and hard after turning power off if you do it at the breaker turn stove top on make sure it don come on remember its 220volts and it hurts open oven door remove all racks.Then remove the screws mounting element to oven pull gently towards you (you may have to lift the front up a little) pull old element out until you see the spade connector (plug ins with the wires attached) remove these should be two of them be careful not to let wires go back into the cabinet put new element in hook wires back up to wires push back into the hole and put screws in turn power back on and test. this can also be done by taking the back off also and doing the same thing in the oven.hope this helps ya
Posted on Dec 08, 2007
I had the very same problem. I slid the oven out of the wall about 6" or so, unplugged it, plugged it back in. It worked. I'm not sure if I jostled some connection, or if unplugging/repluging it in reset some sort of circuit fault.
Posted on May 30, 2008
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
The setting with the fan is fan only function.
The setting with the fan and circle is for fan and element for heating the oven.
Please rate my solution.
Posted on Jan 13, 2010
Testimonial: "thank you very much. Now fully operational."
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