Question about GE Washing Machines

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End of drain hose is too short

I bought a GE top load washer. My problem is the drain hose. I need some kind of extension on the end that goes into the drain pipe. The end of the drain hose doesn't go deep enough into the drain pipe...water sprays out when the washer drains. I have seen many hose extensions online, but I need the end of the hose longer. Any ideas would be helpful.

Thanks

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  • 10 more comments 
  • lmitch4 Jun 30, 2009

    Sound like it will work...I'll give it a shot .

    Thanks

  • lmitch4 Jun 30, 2009

    I'm having trouble with the hose that drains the washer. It dosen't go deep enough into the stand pipe.

  • lmitch4 Jun 30, 2009

    It's a GE top loader. Don't have the model info on hand.

  • lmitch4 Jun 30, 2009

    I have a GE top load washer. When it is draining water sprays out of the stand pipe. The stand pipe is not clogged. Either I need some kind of extension on the end of the hose so it goes into the drain pipe deeper. Or I need to add to my stand pipe??? If so how?

  • lmitch4 Jun 30, 2009

    Sorry...I don't understand.

  • lmitch4 Jun 30, 2009

    The drain hose pops out of the stand pipe when draining.

  • lmitch4 Jul 01, 2009

    HI ...how to I check the drain control lever? This is a brand new GE top load washer.

  • lmitch4 Jul 01, 2009

    The drain pipe is higher than the washer. Do you think I need to make the drain pipe higher? That is what Home Depot is suggesting. If the frain hose from the washer goes down deeper into the pipe , it may still spray out because the washer pump is so strong.

  • lmitch4 Jul 01, 2009

    How high is the standpipe supposed to be?

  • lmitch4 Jul 01, 2009

    OK...I bought a new washer. It seems from what I've heard the water discharge pumps are more powerful now. So, when my washer drains the watershoots out of the drain hose at a fast pace...it fills up the standpipe and sprays water all over the floor. What to do??

  • lmitch4 Jul 01, 2009

    That sound like a good solution but the drain has been cleaned recently.

  • lmitch4 Jul 02, 2009

    Thank you so much for your help. I'm sure one of these solutions will work. Thanks again!

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11 Answers

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This is not a drain hose issue - the problem lies in your drain pipe or trap.
Have the line snaked out to remove lint buildup.
Your drain line (by code) must be a minimum of 1.2" pipe, and have a pitch of 4:1 (4 feet of pipe to 1" of slope)
If the drain is Galvanized pipe - there is a good chance it has sediment buildup and is not draining quick enough.

The reason the hose is short after the radius bend is that there must be an air gap to prevent siphoning back into your washer.

Have the line cleared and I'm sure it will work fine.

Thanks for using FixYa!!

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jul 01, 2009

    The U-hook on your drain hose should just hang in the drain pipe--the diameter
    of the drain hose hook should be less than the diameter of the drain stand pipe.
    Typically, drain hose diameters are around 1" o.d. and standard drain stand pipe
    diameters are 2" o.d. The hook of the drain hose is simply placed into the drain
    pipe and secured with either duct tape or a tie wrap. You can see that this
    creates a natural air break which you should not try to obstruct. If your drain
    meets these criteria and you're getting the suds-back condition, then we need to
    consider a couple of other things

    The problem with the new washing
    machines, is that they dump 20-22 gallons of water in 4-5 seconds. This
    amount is far more than the garden hose test will submit the drain to. Here are
    a number of solutions, I hope that one of these will help you.

    #1 As mentioned above, you can restrict the
    flow of the drain pipe. I recommend a 3/4" x 6" brass nipple, or a 1/2" x 6"
    brass nipple, depending on your specific situation. The brass nipple will not
    corrode like a galvanized nipple.

    #2
    There is also a rubber cap that you attach to the drain pipe that fits around
    the drain hose tightly.

    #3 Some
    situations might require that you have to raise your drain pipe. It is
    recommended that it be at least 36". This allows for gravity to assist the
    drain.

    #4 Some situations will require
    that the drain pipe be increase in diameter. Older plumbing applications were
    installed using 1 1/2" piping. With the newer washing
    machine discharge volume, the 1 1/2" pipes will not support the discharge.
    Your drain line will need to be changed to 2". This option will be one of the
    more costly fixes, depending on the amount of line that needs to be changed.

    #5 Some plumbing installations installed
    without a p-trap will need to be changed. The p-trap keeps sewer gas from coming
    back into the house. It
    also allows for a smooth transition into the drain line. Any restrictions in the
    drain line (i.e. ells, tees,) will cause the soap in the gray water to foam up
    which will cause the drain line to slowly back up

    :D


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Hose line just 1 or2 meter lenth then over lenth not nececsary so drain is in conviniant

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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  • 67 Answers

You can order the extensions on ebay for a low price i just look it up it seems like it would work to you washer

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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Yes you are correct on this, the drain pipe is higher than the washer and need to make the drain pipe higher.

Thanks
Kinldy rate the answer
Kevin

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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Hi can you do this step,

  • Check the drain hose, it should be at least as high as the top of the wash tub, about 38 inches.
  • The drain hose must sit loosely in the house drain. Do not seal the air gap around the drain hose or a siphon will occur.
  • Check the drain control lever
  • Test the drain control coils
  • Check the cam bar
Good luck!!!

Regards

PCmania

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

  • Neciforo Llanto Jul 01, 2009

    Hi, So you need to buy a coupling to connect the extension hose to the drain hose, and just connect an extension hose which is level to your washer so that the water can not sprays,

    Good luck!!!

    Regards

    PCmania

  • Neciforo Llanto Jul 01, 2009





    Hi

    During drain and spin only


    A
    washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the
    main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you
    find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split,
    or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high
    water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer
    tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a
    qualified appliance repair technician for further details.




    All the time

    If the washer leaks all the time, check these:



    • Hot
      and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the
      household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace
      it, as appropriate.



    • Main tub seal - The main tub seal
      is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary
      water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If
      this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main
      access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of
      detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at
      or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably
      should call a qualified appliance repair technician.



    • Pump
      - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is
      full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses
      attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the
      pump is leaking, you need to replace it.



    • Outer tub -
      Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be
      punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer
      tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a
      qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
    Goodluck!!

    PCmania


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  • 64 Answers

If you are looking for the cheapest way out, try wrapping duct tape around the end about 5 or 6 times and then see if it fits in to the pipe. If it's still loose keep wrapping the tape around until you have a nice snug fit. Good luck.

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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  • 198 Answers

This maybe a good article for you.

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/plumbing/washing-machine-discharge-hose-length-4320.html

Quote:

Re: Washing Machine Discharge Hose Length Good morning Alex, Your question is: I would like to move my washing machine from its current position, directly in front of our utility tubs. The new location will require a discharge hose close to 15' long. (The washer inlet hoses will be about as long, too.)
Is there any problem with this? (No) Where can I get this length of this kind of hose? (Any hardware store, ask for reinforced diswasher discharge hose. ) Can I shape it? (It needs to go around three 90-degree horizontal turns.) ( yes, the pump discharges with great pressure)
Should I run it along the floor, then up near the tub, or should I run it up first, the across to the tub? (To advoid water draining back into the washer after the pump shuts down you must loop the hose up over the flood rim of the washer and maintain that elevation, giving it just a little slope so that it drains completly. If you wish to drop and run it around the floor you will have to install a check valve in the discharge line. Be advised that if you do this you will have standing water left in the hose untill the next washing.)
Should I try to reuse the hose I have by cutting it and inserting connectors and more hose (with hose clamps), or not? ( By inserting connectors you choke down on the volume a little. While I don't think this will bother any I would still like the hose to be one piece.) If you have more questions, feel free to click on back. Regards, Tom

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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Kindly check the link below and check the available hoses and see which hose you need:

http://images.google.com.ph/imgres?imgurl=http://images.bizrate.com/resize%3Fsq%3D60%26uid%3D899473730&imgrefurl=http://www.bizrate.com/washers_dryers/products__keyword--ge%2Bwashing%2Bmachine%2Bdrain%2Bhose.html&usg=__IDDkVDk-wvkwRp_kbjBbI4sHsZM=&h=60&w=60&sz=2&hl=tl&start=12&sig2=f--f42yrSNrGUfS3UbAzIw&um=1&tbnid=gbm_83ARHh9RRM:&tbnh=60&tbnw=60&prev=/images%3Fq%3DGE%2Btop%2Bload%2Bwasher%2Bdrain%2Bhose%2Bextension%26hl%3Dtl%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26channel%3Ds%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1&ei=GIxKSueyHM-6lAfUrK0J

Hope this helps and have a great day!

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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This problem occurs in many machines
A/washer rubber fill hose can for sure burst. Shut the water taps off when you are away on vacation and in between laundry days. If you want to help remove this trouble maker, install stainless steel hoses. They can be expensive, but will be much cheaper than mopping up the basement or laundry room.Built in dishwashers should have the hot water line made either from copper or a similar substance. Often a rubber or plastic hose is installed because they are cheap to purchase. These rubber and plastic fill lines often burst. This could damage your house cabinets and your insurance may not help if the dishwasher has not been installed properly. A stainless steel fill hose line is available for the hot water feed.
click the link directly
http://www.applianceaid.com/stainless-steel.html

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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What is the make/model

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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  • 294 Answers

Boss its a pretty simple job. let me take it slow.
Washing machines don't come with extension hoses.
They have two hoses with coloured ends - red and blue and a third hose -normally connected permanently to the machine, which is usually plain grey - this is the dirty water outlet and should be placed into a drain tube. The machine's instructions will explain this for you - often with pictures.

The red (hot) and blue (cold) hoses screw into the back of the machine using the right-angled connectors. make sure that they're tight but do not use pliers (the plastic fittings and threads damage easily.)

The other end of the hoses ( the 'straight' connectors) are screwed to the small hot and cold taps which are provided in your utility area (or often under the sink). You can recognise them because they often have small red/blue handles on top.

If you don't have these little water feed taps then you must get a plumber to install them. It shouldn't take him more than a couple of hours of paid labour time because they're not a difficult job.

If the feed-water hoses are not long enough then you buy longer ones from a decent hardware shop. You should be able to get 2.5 metre ones if you search.(also Ebay.,price..$2-$7)

If you need to use extra hoses as extensions then you should ask for a (usually brass) "back-to-back" or "male-to-male" BSP coupler. You can get these from B&Q or Wikes or a good plumbers shop. If in doubt take one of the hoses with you to check the thread. The cost a couple of quid each.

i could be surprise i did not solve u issue...cos this is wat i do for living.. Good Luck enjoy....... I guess this Old man deserve a drink frm U. >>>>cheers!!!

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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