Question about Whirlpool GGQ9800L Gas Dryer

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GGQ9800PW1 How can I remove the back panel? My dryer spins but does not heat. I've been advised by a reputable parts/replace place how to test the thermal fuse. They said to remove the back panel as if that was something easy. I've removed all the screws, but the panel seems welded in place, as if not even meant to be removed. Is it? If not, how to I get in to look at the thermal fuse?

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  • kzberasley Jun 30, 2009

    Thank you! Studying the parts list and diagram I think I see where the thermal fuse is and how I can get to it from the front.



    Now I wonder what was the purpose of all those screws I removed from the back panel and how bad it is that I can't get all of them in straight or screw them all the way down. Did they attach to something inside the panel?

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Newer models have access through the front lower panel. Removing the panel will expose the t-stats and all other parts. Remember to disconnect all power to dryer before servicing. Disconnect the wires to the thermal fuse and join them together. Connect dryer and start, if it heats up then your fuse is bad. Costs about 10 bucks.

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

  • Gilbert Martinez Jun 30, 2009

    Just make sure that all holes line up. Some dryers have the big round element that is held by 4 screws. If you took those off then your element shroud fell down. Just reach in and hold it back in place and screw it back on.

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1 Answer

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Conventional dryers are usually accessed by removing the rear panel. I would think these would be the same. Unplug the dryer and remove wires from heating element. Test for continuity with an ohmmeter. If there is no reading, the heating element is bad. Disconnect wires from the hi temp thermostat and test with an ohmmeter and if no reading it is bad. Sears has these parts available.

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KENMORE DRYER JUST STOPPED HEATING UP WHAT CAN I DO TO REPAIR IT?


Replace the Heating Element. The heating element is usually located behind a panel on the back. To replace you will need to remove the back cover of the dryer, then locate the heating element. The heating element is screwed into place and is easy to unscrew and replace. Be sure to have the dryer unplugged while doing this.
Here is the part for it:

http://www.repairclinic.com/Kenmore-Dryer-Model-11060602990-ID-501912-Heating-Element-Parts

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Instructions
Things You'll Need:

* Phillips and hex nut screwdrivers
* Replacement thermal fuse
* Replacement thermostat

1. Disconnect the dryer from the electrical outlet.
2. Slide a putty knife between the top panel and front panel on the left side. Slide the knife toward the center of the dryer to release the left-side spring clip. Repeat the process on the right side. Lift the top panel up and rotate toward the back of the dryer. The thermal fuse and thermostat are located along the dryer's back wall, attached to the heating element housing.
3. Disconnect the two wires from the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is an inch-long rectangular plastic part, located near the top of the heating element housing. Remove the screw holding the thermal fuse in place. Remove the old fuse. Place a new fuse on the housing and replace the screw. Reconnect the wires to the fuse.
4. Remove the wires on the thermostat. The thermostat is a black, oval-shaped part located just below the thermal fuse. Remove the screws holding the thermostat in place and slide it out of its slot on the heating element housing. Slide a new thermostat into the slot and replace the screw. Reconnect the wires.
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1 Answer

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Hi

The first thing to check is the fuses or breakers in your homes fuse box. If this fuse is blown, it is possible for your dryer to spin but not produce heat. If you've checked the fuses and they are not blown, the next possible cause is the heating element.
To check the heating element, move the back panel of the dryer. You'll need a volt/ohmmeter to check the element terminal. Locate the element and set the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale. Remove one lead from the element and then place one probe of the volt/ohmmeter on the terminal of the element. Place the other probe of the volt/ohmmeter on the remaining terminal of the element. Look for a continuity reading of the volt/ohmmeter of approximately 2-5 ohms. If there is no continuity reading, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
Also clean the lint filter every time you use the dryer. Even if the lint filter is cleaned after every load, lint will still accumulate around the dryer's moving parts, the exhaust duct and vent. Each year inspect the vent pipe and vent cover operation. Disconnect the exhaust duct and remove lint from the internal exhaust pipe, the duct and the vent. Make sure the duct has no kinks, where lint and moisture can build-up.
Turn off the power; remove the front and rear panels and vacuum out the lint from around the motor and idler. Poor air flow uses more energy and can cause lint build-up in the internal ducting, leading to a fire hazard.

Please check the bellow links to get a detailed idea as to why a dryer is not heating up, you can trouble shoot your problem after going through the article therein:-

http://www.dryernotheating.com/


http://hubpages.com/hub/How-To-Replace-Your-Dryer-Heating-Element


http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm


Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

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1 Answer

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3 Answers

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Thanks
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1 Answer

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3 Answers

Kenmore dryer (electric )


Almost always a thermal fuse.

If your lint screen is in the door, follow these directions:
Disconnect the power. Remove the lint screen. Slide a putty knife in between the toe panel and the bottom of the door three inches from either side. this will release the clips at the top. Tilt the toe panel out at the top and lift it off the clips on the bottom.
Remove the two 1/4 in screws at the top of the metal triangular box around the lint screen. There may be one more ***** near the bottom right of the box holding a gold bracket in place. Remove that ***** or lift the box off the black metal clip at the bottom.
You can now reach the thermal fuse. It's the white plastic part with two wires on it near the blower wheel. If you have an ohm meter, you can test it now. Or remove it (one 1/4 in *****) and take it to the parts store for testing.

If your lint screen is in the top of the machine, follow these directions:
Disconnect power. Remove the lint screen. Remove the two Phillips screws under the lint screen handle.
Pull the dryer away from the wall about 2 feet or more. Disconnect the vent pipe from the bottom of the dryer. Remove the nine 1/4 in screws holding the back panel on, along with the small metal cover. Lift and remove the back panel.
You can now reach the thermal fuse. It's the white plastic part with two wires, close to the blower wheel. If you have an ohm meter, you can test it now. Or remove it (one 1/4 in *****) and take it to the parts store for testing.
While you're back there, be sure to clean out the long metal box that the lint screen goes into (four more 1/4 inch screws.)

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